RAI6

Nice "Myka" headstock......

The scratches won't "disappear" on their own. There is no reason to sand your color coats. You should only sand your clears... Now, I would think you need to make sure that the scratches aren't so deep, that they will still show through your next coat. Then re-coat, and proceed to your clears.

Looks like a clever device. I don't understand how you use it though... Doesn't in generate a concave cut? So, how would that work for the fingerboard you have pictured?

That's the "high-tech" version of what I suggested......

A nail, some string, and a pencil... Punch in the nail, tie some string to it. Tie the pencil to the other end of the string. Wind up the string around the pencil, until the distance between the pencil and the nail is as desired. Draw your radius, making sure the string is tight the whole time....

"We are gonna use a CNC machine, (thank God we can) So the actual execution of everything is no worry to me." That sounds worrisome to me.....

I guess you could have routed your channels before you glued on the top......

Does the type of finish make a difference? Sure. Does this mean that one type of finish is better than another? Nope. The difference that is clearly present, could most people tell? Not even close.... End of discussion. Really.

Unless the veneer is flexible (as in stretchy), it's impossible to do. Just try this: Take a flat sheet of paper. Grab an orange. Now, wrap that paper around the orange without creasing the paper. As you will notice, you won't get very far before that paper has creases all over.

The only way to know how it affects a guitar, is to have one with a regular route. Then you do the swimming pool on it and compare the before/after....

Maybe the slots aren't deep enough....

The combination of the bridge and the nut is what determines your neck. Just to exaggerate, if you wanted a 10" spacing on the bridge, and 1" spacing on the nut, it's completely do-able. Not necessarily playable...

What's the grade of the steel wool? Should be 0000.....

Well,I don't know what you can do looks-wise, but for feel there are a couple of things. You'll need some lemon oil, steel wool, and tape (like a painters type...). Start by taping off the fretboard, leaving the frets exposed. You can do this a couple of frets at a time... Take the steel wool, and give your frets a nice polish. Keep working up the neck, moving the tape as you go. (the tape is there to make sure you only get the frets, and not the wood.) And while you have the steel wool out, give the back of the neck a little rub too. That will give it a nice, smooth feel. Now you can move on to the fingerboard. Take the lemon oil, and wipe down the wood. It doesn't take much, so don't soak it... Rub it in, and make sure you actually remove as much a possible. In the end, your fingerboard will look as new, the frets will be slick, and the neck will feel smooth....

What exactly is it that you want to achieve? "Sanding" and what not, is not going to make a neck "better". For the most part, it sounds like you are only talking about cosmetics...

How about doing it with tinted clear?

I don't think you should do it in wood at all. The look of wood is nice, but when you have too many things going on, it ends up looking like a mess...

I'm all for advancement. Where would we be without it...? But it always get to me with these "tone chaser" people. "What if I change this, what if I change that? Will Product A improve my tone over Product B?" There are way too many variables to say if one thing will make a difference or not. In this case, with something new and unfamiliar, you would need to show the masses what it is you're talking about. Post sound samples in case of pickups, or video showing the increased strength in something like a bridge. Without that, they're just words, and how do you use words to truly describe sound? Just my opinion....

Is there a reason why you free-hand your routes? (noticed this on your Tele body too) And how thick is that body, considering the bridge humbucker route goes through to the spring cavity. Or are the routes too deep...?

I take it you have read the tutorials on material finishing....? The way it is usually done, is by doing a burst to hide the plain looking edge. But since you're covering your guitar in plastic, have you even planned on putting a finish on it? If you have, how does the plastic wrap react to your paint?

Thin out the heel.

You can always take and attach the cover of the box (as you would with a regular top) to a "real" body....

The way a swirl works is by swirling the colors together. That alone should give you a clue as to what you're doing wrong... You're pouring a single color in your tub, and wondering why your guitar only comes out in a single color. If you want a red-and-black swirl, those are the colors you need in your tub. Or you could try red and a clear. That way, the base color (black) will show through where ever the clear is......

When I first saw the title of this thread, I almost sprayed my monitor with a mouthful of water. "1947..." That would have been a nice find.

Right from the site you linked to: "Sorry, we're closed for remodeling. Get ready for new products, a new look, and a new, more efficient, and more timely system of order execution."