RonMay

I've been cleaning the binding on the back and this is the reason cleaning the binding is taking so long. It's very tedious and if not for my music that I listen to while doing this I'd probably go crazy. Cleaning the binding. Ron

Great idea for electric cases. For acoustic cases maybe alternating the way they face so that they are on top of each other... top of the case pointing right and the next case the top would be facing left and so on. Webbing straps, like seat belts material, could also be made hanging from shelf on top going to the floor and secured. Accessories could then be stored on this shelf. Great idea, thanks @Kevan .

@Bizman62, I had seen Jerry Rosa do that with cracks but didn't think about doing that for a brace as well. Thanks. I believe that's exactly what I'll do. I sure would hate for the button to crack or even pull out a chunk of the top. I can visualize that happening at some point and I would be saying, " I should have followed @Bizman62 's suggestion. I hate could of, would of, should of (s). Use Titebond or CA for the support block? Thanks amigo. Ron

There's a loose brace on the back lower bout and I wanted to see how bad the loose brace was visually. I marked it with a sharpie and here's what I found. I'm not quite ready to fix it yet, but will be in the near future I hope. I don't know if Titebond would flow under this brace with some help from gravity if held in an upright position and I'm still thinking about what kind of bracing I want to use. When I "gently" pull or wiggle it it moves a bit. I didn't do this too hard in fear of popping it loose completely. I've had a brainstorm idea of a "jack screw" device, then found it on youtube already invented and sold by StewMac and others. But it would be easy enough to make, but it looks like it might be a little fiddly trying to extend it to add a little force to the brace for gluing. I think a dowel rod of a measured and cut piece of wood and wedge it in might be a better and simpler route to go. The video is a little hard to focus on but you can see that it is loose from the end to about a third or a little more of the length of the brace. It does correspond to the cracks on the back that I've already fixed. Loose Brace I also noticed that the strap button is through the top of the guitar and not in the neck brace. But it's been there for decades and I might want to leave it alone. Ron

What a beautiful instrument. Great work @Andyjr1515 . I really like the sound it produces. Ron

@Prostheta ,happy wife.... happy life. It might have been tough, but compromise can be a good thing.

@MiloszM, it's looking really good. I'm looking forward to seeing the final finish. It's going to be a doozy. Ron

This is an amazing looking and sounding Guitar Bouzouki. Absolutely beautiful. Ron

This sounds amazing. It sounds like an open tuning. Don't sell your blissful ignorance short. That was really nice.

Currently I am humidifying this guitar and was wondering is there a number where it's too much humidity? I know that to little is bad but is too much? I would imagine so, right? Ron

*hit wrong button and it won't let me delete*

I started cleaning up the back binding. I should have taken the photo in the shade. Ron

@Prostheta, Precision is as precision does. I have found in many things that making sure all the small details are as good as you can ;make them, the rest will follow. In target shooting, if you aim small you miss small. I think it's the difference between a guitar builder and a master guitar builder. Ron

@ZekeB, Next time I get stopped I'm going to use that. Officer : Why did you do it?" Me: " I had some oak. " It is a pretty bench. Ron

@mattharris75 , the finishing steps you have already done is giving it such a beautiful rich tone and quality to it. Before and after is like night and day. Great job. Ron

Very cool work bench. If you can't work on a project with a bench like that then keep it in the garage, and put it on jack stands. Great job. I could use this to clamp my brain when I change my mind. Ron

@Bizman62, I think you're absolutely right. Just like all the crud and grime which is all over it. Thank you. Ron

I also cleaned up the rosette. Ron

I repaired the crack between the upper and lower bout. You can still see it, but it feels absolutely smooth. I can push down from the top and up from the inside and it doesn't open up a little like it did and doesn't move. I sort of wedged a "stick" under it from the inside and let the really thin CA glue flow in, then quickly removed the stick and slightly pressed down for about 15 seconds or so. I think it's structurally sound now. I then very lightly sanded with progressively finer sand paper until it was smooth, followed up with linseed oil. Even though you can still see it , it literally feels like a smooth success. before: after Ron

Thank you @MiKro. It's definitely going to need one of those. Ron

@MiKro, thank you. Another option is always welcome. I believe the bracing is only a parallel layout so the dimensions should be pretty simple and straight forward. I'm not sure that removing and replacing a bridge support is in my limited skill level though. I'll cross that "bridge" when I come to it. Ron

@Bizman62, I think two bridges is a good idea. Seeing which one works out better and to be able to compare side by side would help make a smart choice in stead of an experiment. I might be able to send the other one back. Matching the size and approximate shape might be a little challenging. But finding a supplier and ordering them is a ways off yet. I watched one RSW video where the bridge was kind of glued on like that. Thanks for that suggestion. I appreciate it. Ron

To me this means it's only about .040" low. which may not be too bad. Ron

I'm glad you pointed that out because I totally forgot about the diameter of the strings. Thank you. You're right. It may not really be that bad. The action I would prefer is about 0.085" and strings would be 10s or 11s. So maybe that's actually just about right. The .125 - .085 - .047 (big E string) = 0.007. If that's accurate it looks almost right on. I do have a smart phone photo. I set it to voice activation then put it inside the guitar ad..., "smile" and here's what I saw. It looks to me like it's not robust enough for pin holes. I don't think it's wide enough. I'm not sure about the thickness. Its funny that you should mention an endoscope. I just ordered one yesterday from Amazon. It looks pretty clear why it pulled off in the first place. It might have been glued and fastened with bolts over the lacquer finish. But that's just a guess. Ron

I decided to take a good look at the bridge and it's relationship with the neck. I saw several Rosa String Works videos where he checks the height of the bridge and the neck. He laid a straight edge on the neck on top of the frets and looked at where on the height of the bridge / saddle came in relation to where it should be. He demonstrated how the bottom of the straight edge should be right at the top of the saddle or as close to it as possible either high or low. I did the same thing and i may have a major problem. The end of the straight edge ends up, as close as I can tell, about 1/8" below the top of the saddle. Obviously a new bridge is needed but is this discrepancy going to be a problem? It's a pass through bridge with the strings going through the bridge in stead of pin holes and pins. This bridge is also machine screw fastened to the bridge support and held down with square nuts on the inside. There are many variables involved but it looks like a very thin or shallow bridge is needed in order to get the strings down to playable action. Or is this not the case. I would like to go to a pinned style bridge, but that would mean drilling holes for the pins and a bridge of that type may not have enough length to cover up the bridge "bolt" holes. Is the bridge and neck angle problem going to be fixable? Or is it a case of " it is what it is" ? It looks like a very serious problem. Ron