ihocky2

Well the first thing I would do to broaden your search is to stop searching just in your area or country. Use MSC or Alibaba and seach for it. Both of those sites are industrial link sites. They will give you a hit for every company that carries phenolic resin products in the world. Go straight to the manufacturer, they might not be willing to sell small quantities to you, but I guarantee you they can give you a listing of the nearest company that will. Call these companies up and tell them what you want. They might not be able to do it, but they can always point you in the right direction. You might not find it right in your back yard, but I would imagine shipping across a few countries in Europe is cheaper than shipping from the US. Don't really on just the internet. In this modern age people seem to forget that phones exist for purposes other than text messages. If the only listing you have for a company is a phone number, call them. You said yourself that your country and area of Europe are not as developed yet. There are companies who will deal with what you need, they just might not have a website. Check the phone book for sign companies, plastic suppliers, anyone who makes products out of plastic and call them up. They might over charge you buy their standards, but knowing what you will pay to get it else where, you will still get a great deal on it.

+1 on what has been said for the drill press. In my experience, any bench top jointer is good for a paper weight. You spend more time readjusting the blades, the fence, and the tables. The short table also makes it harder to get a nice flat edge. You are better spending $50 or $60, and a few hours of practice a getting a jointer hand plane. You'll be done jointing boards in less time then it will take you to re-adjust the blades of the bench top.

I read through that link, but it just doesn't seem right. All of the parallel work is correct, but the series seems like you should see a voltage drop after each LED. But his math doesn't show it, and he doesn't really explain anything on the voltage drop.

I am sure the rippling is from the sander being used dry. You run the risk of building up heat and pulling the finish with dry sanding, and even more so when you factor in the RO sander. But it does sound like a good product to look into. Do you have carved tops in the works to test them out on? Would be interested to see how well you can control and level with those pads on a carved top.

Dropping tunings like that on a Floyd Rose is a pain without the proper setup. You strings are so floppy that the trem have the baseplate as far down as it will go. On a hardtail, your strings will be very loose, but you can get away with using it for practice. But you are going to have so much fret buzz and tuning issues that you would never want to play a gig like that. I am still working on if I like 9's or 10's better and I prefer to play mostly metal. But to clasify it is mostly power, progressive, melodic metal and such. Not a lot of low tunings, or need for beefy chunking tones. I do have a set or Ernie Ball Hybrids I have to get around to trying. But I think I am settling in on the 10's. It took a little while to get used to them from 9's, but I barely notice the difference anymore. I do find the higher tension on the wound strings more pleasant though.

Oddly enough I had a similar reaction with CA and walnut not too long ago. I was messing around with filling a chip, and testing some sample pieces. Filled test void with walnut dust and added a little water thin CA. About 15 seconds later; sizzling, smoking and a lava flow type effect occured. I love the headstock with that body, but then again I am a big Jackson fan. I actually prefer the reversed headstock on a strat style body, but won't turn down a standard one. Fall is a long time to wait to see how this one turns out, considering how good it looks right now.

Great tip on the center punch, that will help locate the bit start and help keep it from wandering.

On single coils it's easy to position under the node, you put the poles right under it. But what about humbuckers? Does one coil react better than the other? Does it not matter as long as there is a set of poles under it? Is in between the poles better?

I'ev learned when something goes wrong for me, no matter how little, the best thing to do is go cool off right away. I might move on to something else that I know should go smoothly, and really hope that it does. Anytime I get frustrated at something it never ends well. The final result suffers, or the wall of my shop suffers. Whether it is guitars, my car, simply home repairs. If I don't cool off immediately and put it off, something ends up getting broken. Just try it again. Take some time, look at it, figure out why and where it went wrong to get crooked and figure out what you can do to help prevent it. I've put those jacks in crooked myself. For something that seems so simple, they are easy to screw up. Try using some tape to hold it in place when you go to drill the holes.

But when you can get the guitar at a dealer price, let's call it $800 for argument sake. And thinking you can get at least $800 for it parted out, it is good financial choice. Because if you can sell it for parts at $1100 and only paid $800, you made $500. These types of guys have no value for the guitar as is, they have a value for the all mighty dollar only. Unless you want to buy all of the parts for it, I would skip on it. It is a decent price for a loaded body, but no collector cares if it is a San Dimas body, when it has a Warmoth neck and generic neck plate. What makes a San Dimas so desirable, is the entire guitar itself. They way it is fitted together, the way the neck feels, the way it is set up. An alder body with Seymour Duncan pickups is very common, nothing special about it. I have looked into what Charvel is doing for their bodies currently, but I would bet it is a CNC made body, so it's not like your paying for a special hand made custom body or anything. There is not really anything that makes that body any better than if you bought a painted, loaded one from Warmoth. Like said before, would you buy a Ferrarri without an engine and put in a 4 cylinder, because it was cheaper or easier to get. It might say Ferrarri, but it just is not one, and never will be one.

Looking great. Did you buy the spalted maple at the thickness you needed, or did you have to plane it down. I am just kind of curious as to how you went about it, since the front piece looks like it would want to explode under power tools.

The only limits are thick enough that the screw for the hardware don't stick out the back, or the trem block doesn't stick out too far.

Like the others have already said, try steel wool or scoth-brite pads. Any sandpaper you want is going to be in the ultra fine categories, and the steel wool and pads will do the same thing, but I find easier to control and get a nicer finish with. A little 000 or 0000 steel wool takes a sticky poly neck down to nice and smooth very easy, you don't need to attack it with heavy grits of sandpaper.

Are you planning on a solid body or hollow body? Solid steel at 1" thick is going to weigh around 40 lbs., stainless around 45lbs.

Very nice. Not 100% my taste, but I do like it.

You apparently have never met my wife.

None that I've found. Like I said, leather working supply places sell analine dyes. You can call a local art store (someplace better than AC Moore) and ask if they know of anywhere that sells analine dyes.

I like #4 myself.

How did you go about routing for binding on the headstock with the fretboard already on? I always try and do the headstock first since the fretboard ends up getting in the way of the router or making a weird angle on the router table. Otherwise I am stuck putting a spacer block on the front of the head and having the bit stick way out (something I try and avoid).

Edit: please ignore. I was thinking of a different tool.

Not to try and drag this trip down memory lane back on track, but... If you have a Rockler or Woodcraft near by they sell wood dyes. They sell them as TransTint I believe. Same stuff StewMac sells, just with a different label. You can also find analine dyes at places that sell leather working stuff.

The sparks would be due to the minerals in the wood, same with tool wear. I don't think it is actually the sand being drawn into the wood, but I might be wrong. But I know it does get gritty mineral deposits that are very hard on tools. It's not so much the wood itself causing the problems.

1/8" is usually good for a minimum.

The top is basically a standard wing tip, the lower is with a secondary angle. It allows you to remove the broken edge, keep the original angles and curves, but still fixes the break. Plus it gives it a little bit of a custom look. I would draw the cuts onto the body, maybe use some paper trimmed to the final shape to see how it will look and decide if that works for you.

Well, since the RR4 is not exactly a collectable model you have the freedom to do as you please. You can either sand away a little from the straight sections of the wings and from the inside curve to remove enough material. Or you can cut a secondary angle on the tips. I don't really have any illustrations, but I personally I would go with the secondary angle.