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ihocky2

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Everything posted by ihocky2

  1. ihocky2
    Some people prefer to have traditional trems set with a little bit of a gap at the rear, maybe a few 16ths. Others like it flat against the body. If you prefer hard tails you can always block the trem so it can't move and just unscrew the arm. Plus I think there is a hard tail that will mount right in the holes for a trem if you are replacing the bridge, but I don't remember where I saw it and which country origins it fits.
  2. ihocky2
    I've heard rumours that Bondo brand will shrink back slightly over time, but have never seen this myself. But I have heard very high praises of the 3M brand of boddy puty and glazes.
  3. ihocky2
    Spend the money and get carbide toothed blades. Look at the blade report that Fryovanni gave, he has thousands of cuts on his carbide tooth blades.
  4. ihocky2
    That's one of the big differences in a hand made bolt on vs. big company, most hand made bolt ons have a very snug neck pocket. But in a big name brand, forget about it. But as far as having a custom built for close to the same price, it's not going to happen. A brand new Gibson is running $1000 to $1500 usually, most custom built guitars by a quality luthier start at least $2000, and that is for very few options, to have it personalized is always an adder. It a lot cheaper than a big name Custom Shop job, but is still quite a bit more than a custom made small name luthier.
  5. ihocky2
    I just got my first copy of Photoshop, and need some help on how to make guitar mockups with it. I basically have no idea on how to do any of the work. I would like to be able to make some pictoral mockups of my own personal deisgns with various color options, and bursts, as well as showing them with figured tops. If anyone can help out, or at least point me to somewhere to learn what I need to do I would appreciate it. I can use AutoCAD and Inventor and Solidworks just fine, but have never used Photoshop before. Thanks.
  6. ihocky2
    What is your reasoning behind thinking that a roller bridge will increase the sustain? I doubt you'll notice any difference, unless it is real meatal like brass or aluminum, but for $12 I am guessing it is probably cheap white metal like the original bridge.
  7. ihocky2
    Lookin' great, keep the pics coming.
  8. ihocky2
    Drill doctors won't work on a forstner or brad point bit. I haven't had to sharpen my brad points yet, so I don't know how bad thsoe are, but forstners are easy. I just use a small fine cut traingular file. Lay the file flat on the surfaces and file off a little. It usually doesn't take much metal removal to get a nice cutting edge again. I only have a cheap set that I use for hogging out, but it seems my hand sharpening lasts longer than the factory edge. Just hit the large cutting face quick and then the bottom rake of that face lightly. And as Prostheta said, keep them from getting hot, so watch your speeds and feeds. A lot of times cutting slower gets you done faster because the bit can clear chips easier and clogs less.
  9. ihocky2
    I know 3M shows using an air powered D.O. sander in some of their finishing videos with a soft backing pad to help save corners. I think they have wet sand pads up to 3000 grit.
  10. ihocky2
    Charvel did it on their Avengers, but they used cheap pickups that didn't sound that great, so a lot of people switch them out to humbuckers. They also did it on another model, I think the 375XL (can't quite remember). I've not gotten a chance to see a schematic for them yet though.
  11. ihocky2
    Thanks, as for the cutouts, as I said before I have to give all the credit to Drak and his Texas Telecasters. He had been using a longhorn for the soundhole, and it inspired me. I just noticed you are from Pa. Where abouts, I am right outside of Allentown.
  12. ihocky2
    I play it mostly for country. I like pointy headstocks though and wanted something a little more agressive looking than a standard Tele. Those are just the GFS clearance matched pair for the Tele. I does sound really nice clean though, overdrive has a nice blues tone. Once I start pushing the distortion, especially the high gain and it goes down hill fast. But for the little recording work I do, I can see this being used for a lot of clean tones, very bright and crisp. Guitar Fetish, but I would not get it again if I had to do it over. The way the strings come through the body, they lay right along the saddle adjustment springs, and unless at full pitch, the springs rattle. So if I down tune at all I have to use heavier springs.
  13. ihocky2
    Could be something where it works with most brands, but not all of 2K and TransTint doesn't want to accept any direct risk. If StewMac sells the same product under their own label, StewMac accepts the risk. So TransTint gets to seel more of their product and if anything goes wrong with the StewMac ones, they are off the hook.
  14. ihocky2
    I like the way that finish ended up. It's only too bad that they couldn't get the cracks to fill all the way in. But still, looks good.
  15. ihocky2
    Not sure how much waxing would help, but a clear coat does not have to be used. But the paint will scratch, chip and fade quicker. Any of the Fender Olympic White guitars did not have a clear coat.
  16. ihocky2
    I haven't built my booth yet, but a good idea is to find a way to include a filter for your air intake. As the fan is drawing air out, it has to be replaced and the new air may contain dust. But if you can seal off the curtain a little better and cut in a frame for a filter, that will eliminate a lot of the dust.
  17. ihocky2
    I have a piece of purpleheart for a fretboard sitting in the garge that has gone to a brownish purple, but is still purple. The off cut from it sat out in the firewood bucket for a few months in the sun and it look like walnut. The bloodwood iused for af fretboard got a little brown, but was still red, over a few months inside, but when sanded went right back to the brighter red. I haven't had any of that laying outside yet to see what the sun does to it.
  18. ihocky2
    A common technique is to dye the wood the main base color of the burst, seal it with a wach coat of clear and then work the burst in with transparent colors. Some people even prefer to just use a transparent color and feel that it gives a more 3d look to the grain, I have not tried it yet so I have to take their word for it.
  19. ihocky2
    Hit or miss seems to be the most common way to copy the color. You can try to narrow it down a little though. Maybe try copying the color of the shellac first, then once you have that try adding to get your amber. If it takes three colors to make a new one, try matching the base color first and then continuing instead of trying right for the final color.
  20. ihocky2
    Bloodwood and purpleheart both turn brown over time. If kept out of UV light it is a slower process, but they do brown over time.
  21. ihocky2
    That is absolutely my plan. While I would love to land my first customer I know what my limitations are and won't step outside them for a customer, if he wants something I can't do than I just have to walk away. I have resonded to him and asked for some more details on what he is looking for. Pretty much any other style of music and I know where to start with a design that will produce a desired tone. But I have never really listened to jazz, and don't know what are the main design ideas that contribute to that sound. If a hollow body is almost a must then I am out of luck for now. If it is more pickups and wood, then I just need find out where I need to start a design.
  22. ihocky2
    If you are looking for a transparent look, you can also use candy colors. Createx and Auto Air Colors make transparents and candy colors that are inexpensive, waterbased, and work just fine under 2 part poly's.
  23. ihocky2
    I've been approached about building a solid body guitar for what will be my first customer if I land the job. The first contact was through email without much detail except for a few pics of guitars they like and several were hollow body jazz boxes, but some were Les Pauls and PRS. I am meeting with them in a few days to go over ideas and details and need a little advice about jazz guitars. I do not have the experience or the tools to build a hollow body. I am not sure if he wants a hollow body jazz guitar yet though, or if they are just colors that he likes. I have built two Tele thinline style hollow bodies just fine. So I am thinking that a thinline style with a mahoganny set neck and mahoganny back with a maple top and a set of jazz style pickups should get me close. I am close to the ballpark, or am I still sitting in the parking lot?
  24. ihocky2
    There's no reason to worry about screwing straight into the wood. Gibson does it with no problem. Strat bridges are scewed straight into the wood. So are the older posts for the Floyd Rose style bridges, and those will see the most tension and abuse.
  25. ihocky2
    Hard and dense definitely go a long way. Ash is also fairly heavy, so you might have to really watch you strap button placements to get a good balance, so it doesn't come out too neck heavy. I hope someone else chimes in as well, since I can not remember if there were reasons to stay away from ash or not.
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