brewu22

Guitar fetish Not used but the quality is not bad..

Miss your old avatar Greg.

Why are the older pots that come with Emg pickups so stiff? When the price was right a couple of years ago, I bought many sets on ebay. Can someone suggest a replacement pot that is not so stiff.

I have used bondo for dent filling with no painting problems at all. I use A urathane sealer and acrylic laquer paint. I would not recomend bondo as a pore filler. It would be to hard to get the hardener mix ratio right so you could spread it onto the body. It would either harden too fast and not get into the pores, or harden too slow and never fully cure.

Depends on what you are doing. If you are painting, you can mask it off, then build up the difference with clear. One other method is to paint the binding along with the rest of the body, then scrape the paint off the binding, then clear over the entire body. The last method is if you are going a natural finish is to make sure the binding is flush with the body, then clear over the entire thing. You are either going to scrape paint off the binding or not. The last step IS to clearcoat the binding along with the body. Hope this helps.

He is not painting it, he wants to stain, and burst it.

+1 on sealing the wood with something before grain filling. The ktm-9 should seal it just fine. Its always best to stick with a finishing system that is compatible. If you can, try it on some scrap first. Good luck.

Depending on what you are doing, I think you will want to seal the wood first. That will prevent the wood from absorbing all the paint that you apply. Yes you acn get cheaper paint, but at a reduced quality.

where are you located? That would help. I am not qualified to do such work. There are others around this fourm that could do that job for you.

I am not a paint expert but, if they are made of metal, it would be strip, prime, and paint. are they able to be disassembled? That would help a lot. I am thinking poly for this, for durability. Just my 2 cents. I am sure someone with more experience will chime in soon. Got any pics?

All pieces of spalted wood are different. If you dont have your hands on the wood, its hard to say what it will need. No, if you stabilize with CA, you will not be able to stain it. The more punky (soft) the wood is, the more CA it will take, spalted drinks CA like water. My advice would be stabilize with CA, then tint your clear coat. My first spalted top didn't look that rotted, but some of the lighter colored spots were as soft as balsa wood. No matter what you do, you will have to be careful with it untill you get it stabilized. Hope this helps. If you need more info on spalted wood, PM Drak, he has used the stuff a lot.

I am not sure if this type of threaded insert would work with wood too well. I have used a ton of these things in metal projects. I dont think the thread gripping surface is deep enough for wood. I could be wrong, but I know they wont have a lot of biting surface when the wood is tapped.

I am with everyone else about getting the wings glued on. Did you save any of the pieces that you have cut out? You could use them to assist in clamping. How are you doing the carves? By the way, it looks really good so far.

Try putting it in the top horn, with a strat style jack. Thats the way the newer Rhoads V's come stock. I put the jack in this way for the 25th ani King V that I am building.

Some pics of the pitting would help a lot. I have the same setup, and have had no problems. I have the medium and fine compounds. I wet sand to 1200, then buff. Have you buffed through the finish, and the grain filler? just a thought.

I would use bondo, A product used in car body, and finish repair. Can get it most anywhere, and it dries fast and hard, quickly.

Digitech does it too. I never really thought about it before this thread. I pulled the cover off, and powered it up. The top of the 12ax7's glow, but there is a helper led between the 2 tubes to get that full tube glow. This is a digitech 2120 preamp by the way.

If it has a sealer on the wood like a charvel, it is thick, and chalky. Try not to gouge it too much, it will save you some time on filling later. You will have to use a metal scraper, I tried plastic to avoid gouging, but it melted it. Make sure you do it in a well ventilated area.

Polyester is a pain to remove. Heat is your best bet to get most of it off. Be careful if you use heat, follow the tutorial, The fumes can kill you. Also, just take it down to the sealer, not to the bare wood. This will save you a lot of time.

"Yes officer, I know it's illegal, but I only did it for cosmetic reasons!" You're stupid if you think that's any kind of acceptable defense. I'm seconding Perry's call for banning/deleting posts involving this kind of thing. Yes, we all understand the legality of this issue. Now, he understands the legality of this issue. I really don't think he will be doing it again any time soon. I have been here for a year, and don't recall seeing this type of thing very often, so can we all just continue now. It only has to happen ONCE, to upset someone (business) with lots and lots of money, and anger them enough to shut this place down (and take the admin team with it). I dont want to see that. Im sure you dont either. I see where you are coming from, and I understand completely. And no, I do not ever want to see this forum go away. I have learned a lot from all of the regular posters, and you. We all contribute to help others learn. I think he has learned his lesson.

"Yes officer, I know it's illegal, but I only did it for cosmetic reasons!" You're stupid if you think that's any kind of acceptable defense. I'm seconding Perry's call for banning/deleting posts involving this kind of thing. Yes, we all understand the legality of this issue. Now, he understands the legality of this issue. I really don't think he will be doing it again any time soon. I have been here for a year, and don't recall seeing this type of thing very often, so can we all just continue now.

+1 for the top horn mount for the strat style input. I put mine in the same place that Jackson does now. It took a really long drill bit and nerves of steel to hit the bridge pickup pocket, without hitting the Floyd Rose routing.

Try this link It used to be pinned. It will give you a good place to start J

Ok, I have seen the neck pics. Nice headstock, I would of made my own logo for something that looked that good. I know you didn't try to sell as a Jackson, sometimes people get the wrong impression.

Ok, I may be late, but I only see one picture. Does it have a Jackson logo on the neck? Is it in fact, a Jackson neck? Or a knock off? I put my logo on the neck of the first guitar I built. It wasn't a neck that I built, so doesn't that open a whole new can of worms? I would never try to scam anyone, I have built replacement bodies for Charvels, and Jacksons, but would sell it as a Jackson neck, with a replacement body. Do you know what I mean. I am not at the stage of selling the guitars that I build, but would like to talk about this. Not trying to start a heated debate.