ibnaz5150

You should be able to get an alder body pretty cheap. This would be 8/4 rough lumber at 3.00 a bd ft X 5=15-20.00 bucks should cover ya. Plus most lumber mills will surface plane for you...to your desired thickness ...1-3/4 is pretty popular thickness to start with.

Anyone...? I don't have any bushings on hand to measure. Their site states a .1969 ream....so I'm guessing a 25/64's bit is used for the ream???

Here's a peak at my spalt sets... spalt top

Man I can't see a body harder than a neck! Fret slotting & the fret work alone scare the %^$# out of me. Someday?...... .....like to have thickness planer someday too!

I hear ya Rggr.seems you have the building bug. I saw your axxion project...nice work. Your beltin em out. If you remember I was building the rosewood rg body. Pretty much done with it...gonna dump it. Not cuz I ruined it but because I want the cash to get more wood.... ! I also pumped out a RG walnut/curly maple laminate body inbetween...dump that as well.I ran into that wood on ebay and dropped some $$ on a few spalted sets and one flame. Now I'm up for the challenge of doing a drop top. Definitely have the bug which scares me. Been wanting to do this a long long time now. I had most of the tools all along as well as a good back ground in woodworking. Always feared fudging up a good chunk of wood.I'm still backing off on necks though I'm getting the itch.

I hear ya.the shipping cost is as much as some of the sets....however the price & shipping combined is still a good deal. I picked up a few spalt sets and a flame set recently....gonna need some help when I get to that! Never bent wood before...depending on how involved it is, risk and what not I may just skip the arm rest.

RG-8 string..... Why on earth I need 8 strings when I'm not even comfortable with 6,

I do the same Mattia. Thought about the varible speed control.woodworker supply has em for 45.00.I'm skeptical with harbor freight tools. Recieved some real junk from them in the past. Probably get the variable speed gadget and a D-handle base and I'll be happy. Right now it's back and forth between the table and hand use since I only have the one base. This way I can keep the fixed base on the table.

I've had several warmoths with a heel adjustment and a floyd nut. Are you doing an angled headstock??

Check out this ebay store [url=http://stores.ebay.com/Fraser-Valley-Fine-Woods] Has some nice sets at a decent penny. Forgot to add nice work.....

Anyone know the ream for a original floyd bushing? ...25/64's?

I use the same method as John....1st blast it with air...I like 80psi..I'll get close with the nozzle if I have deep pores. Then give her a wipe with a slightly dampened rag of naptha. Really should'nt be any dust on it after that point unless the wood got grimed up with a contaminant. If that's the case I'll get thorough with different solvents to make sure I get whatevers on there off before finish.I still finish with air and naphta.

Loved Ron's acustic..needed some more photo's...could of swayed me. Skelf won my vote..beauty work and beauty wood.

Thanks for all the feedback. Guess there many ways to skin a cat. I'm always willing to learn or try something new. I have a porter cable 691 series....believe it's their bottom of the barrel. No soft start,fixed speed with a fixed base. I'm really starting to hate it however it's getting the job done and I've adapted to it. Turning it off and on can be a real disaster in tight route situations. I ended up plugging it into a switched outlet on the floor and use my foot to turn it off and on....much safer!I use a forstner bit to take out most of the mass the go from there...this is where a plunge would help!...then again I'm saving my bits! I made a template out some 3/4" oak yesterday ...if I had some hickory I would of used that... . I'm already eyeing up some different routers but that's down the road. I did discover a nifty bit ....a flush trim 1/4" spiral bit. Bearing is on the bottom obviously. You could duplicate any cavity on a guitar with that...then flip her upside down on a router table to make multiple templates. Bit runs 32.00. Hey Maiden... nice work! See you use the aluminum pipe for your hanger/handle. I made a stand out of some scrap 3/4" galvanized pipe . I put my 1"aluminum pipe over that with the twanger attached and I can spin her every which way when finishing.

Mavet.go to warmoth.com.........they use both white and black limba amoung many other exoctics. Search their site...you'll find pix and wood descriptions regarding tonal properties.

you gotta love Yngwie.....

I'm going to agree with ya on that one.....I bought the set to save a few bucks...paid 50.00!Don't want to bash stewmac here however it's wise to shop around 1st cuz alot of their prices are sky high.I like the 1/2" but the 3/8 I used once only...it really did'nt offer a tighter corner than the half...to my eye. I already bought a few bits from routerbits.com.they are awesome! BTW...their whiteside brand which has always served me well in the past.

hey Setch.....believe me I keep the bit moving in the corners knowing what can happen...yet still as I said it's a 50/50 chance the bit will dig into the corners which in turn onto my work piece. I have a 3/8" bearing template bit I aquired through stewmac yet the radius is too rounded for my taste for a dimarizo route or recessed floyd. I'm sure they use a smaller bit and a cnc machine in the factory's to acheieve this.

Curious here what others use for routing tight radius such as 1/4 or 3/16" . I've burned up several plexi templates...moved on to hard board with a 50/50 result . For certain I don't want to take that chance when applying to my actual piece! I actually did this to my rosewood body and got lucky ...real lucky!I went to make more copys of the same template and said EEEEEEEE not good..burned up my master...off to make another...again!My method which obviously is not working was riding a 1/4" straight bit along my template.I was using just the shaft obviously however...friction,heat what have you desires the bit to dig into the corners of the template. I've spent so much time making the templates only to ruin them.UGHHHHHH !!! I'm thinking of using a 5/16" template bushing with a 7/32 bit .I'd have to oversize my templates doing this but I think it may work nicely. Curious here what you use to do the job! Thanks Tom

I did somthing similar regarding the fill process. One where I modified crud bridge to a origianl floyd. The other was just pluging up some control holes. I used wood and epoxy for the fill. Everthing was dandy for a year or so...then those fills come poppin out. I used duplicolor and their clear coats for one. The other was nitro. Hope this does'nt happen to you!!!

Never seen poplar so dark! resembles walnut much. Nice work!

Thanks Mattia......will do

Just thought the rosewood dust from the actual body would help fill the pores better.....possibly add some contrast with the grain??? What method... tricks or tips do you use for the sides? I've used waterbased grain filler with a coarse rag for the sides....just skeptical with the epoxy..seems to me to be much more tackier. don't want any fuzz in more pores!

What a royal pain....I made 2 master templates out of plexi.....I burned them up riding a 1/4" shaft. I made a few more from hardy board without the problem. Luckily I practiced on scrap! Think next time around I'm going to oversize the template and use one of those brass template guides. Thing with this route is it has very tight corners and a 3/8" bearing bit did'nt cut it...too rounded for my taste. Oh well we live and learn! Have the roundover to go...debating by hand or a 1/16" bit.....hate to get tearout coming this far. After that a boat load of sanding....then a finish. http://i62.photobucket.com/albums/h108/ibn...0/dimarzpup.jpg