low end fuzz

steel city IS awsome; but i wouldnt spennd that much on a new planer if the other one can cut at all; i got my crappy mastercraft 12.5" thicknesser; which i se to rough up lumber; and the steel city 16" (i think) thickness sander to do all the post glue thicknesses; when things get too wide it cost me 1600 cdn$ and was worth every penny; cause i use everyday and my joints have never looked nicer w/o any tears in any figure

hopefully someone has had some luck with these; ive been toying around with them because i have 6 sets of various ones that i planned on using for small upgrades when ppl ask for something better than their japaneese vantage pups that wont cost anything; theres always hum, im told insantly they sound a lot better but the hum bugs me; i decided to use a humbucker and jazz combo in an sg bass i made, for no other reason than they looked simalar to the sizes of the pups in the real one...meh; but this one i wanted to really figure out there potential; well, its a lot of hum; ive coppered the pup cavities the control cavity/cover bridge ground to the common; pickups grounded to the common and pots grounded to each other /input and to common; i think i killed my tone pot and am going to change it sunday (saturday is beerfest) but unless thats the reason (like the grounding doesnt count because the pots not conducting(?) it right? i was going to remove the bridge ground like there normal pickups but when i learned about that it was grounded out with no sound, i got working everyting (- 1 pot) so what sucks? me or the pickups? thank you oh yeah 500k pots

looks unconfortable; but very nice!

ya.....but if you primer it, youve sealed it, which is the same thing.....so.........yes?

i dont ever grain fill ,usually epoxy or or spot fill really bad peces or just fill with finish; but i think i should start, for more effects on ash; the only problem is i dont see anyone around here selling grain filler; and lmii stewmac and countless american companies have exactly what im looking for and cant send them across the border; i live 20 mins from exotic woods and lee valley and neither of them have anything that isnt a waterbased paste filler (basically for puttying up finished wood) they are as specialty of project shops as we get around here; countless searches turn up nothing unless i order gallons of it and pay the 'danger' costs; but im not gonna do that; any help would be gggrrreeat!

there is an 'all purpose' krlon for ,i think plastic and metal , that works great over sealer on guitars; the one i seen done was there glossy black; still alot of work, but it was a sucsess i think 3 cans were used for one carvin

take out the frets; sand and put them back in; if its above your level, do as much as you can, like taking out the frets (solder iron and flush cutter) and sand; then have a local repair shop hammer them in and dress them; if its worth it your lookin at about 100$

i got a real cool 'antique' look off a flamed top when i sanded back stain (not dye) then added some very watered down amber dye and finished with shellac; it looked like dirt and sun damage all over it, it looked 100 years old; mind you ,i wouldnt do it again! oh and sorry about not tottally understanding your qustion grant

not to come off as a dick or anything; but these kind of questions are asked when your waay over your head; if you want to do anything to a finished guitar, first you strip off all the clear and sealer; if you want to add a 1/4 " then yes, you have to take off that much, plus if its a les paul the top is carved, then after you howevere get the top on you have to reroute all the front cavities; the pot holes will be long gone, and then...if you choose to recarve the top, after that you can think about finishing it; 'I' would take that body, trace it onto a piece of mahogony, and put your top on that; then skoot over to the solid body section and get some finer pointers of construction; dont get ahead of yourself; and enjoy

yes; i find it being used more than any other wood; especially basses the problem is the pores and the differences in consistency thrughout the wood; finshing one is a pain if your not willing to grain fill great sound

going to level the finish a little before i put on the last few coats; but this is comig along nicely for a project that is unlike what i usually make ie. first set neck; actually carved at the joint as oppose to a bolt on stlye that is glued; inlaid pickguard and zero fret; which im starting to dig hope it looks as nice to you i thought i was so clever inlaying the pickguard; then i visted LeCompte's site...................bastard. if anyone hasnt seen this guy, he is definatly worth checking out; such intricate creativity, on a pretty big scale! heres some other progress shots with some other ones of me standing stoned w/ my bass thanx for looking! http://s68.photobucket.com/albums/i23/lowendfuzz/misc/

i was at a wood show in jan. in toronto and they were selling a kit to turn your drill into a lathe; i too have a lathe and would never consider it, but heh; it was an old lady selling them, and she was givin her on this thing, it didnt seem as stupid as i first thought; i think it was about 50$ and came with a starter set of chisels

bluebird is such an awsome name for your project, the name makes that top look like blue feathers on a wing excellent work

wizard necks are made out of bubinga arnt they? i htink i heard that; and i would trust wenge over bubinga, and i see a lot more 'perfect' staight wenge than bubing

if i had to pick one power tool to do an entire build, it would be the router; i have six of them now (4 always in use) besides shaping the back of the neck, i cant think of one major part that the router makes easier!

personally i much rather cutout and sand my bodies into shape instead of routing; whereas i would trace the template with another bearing seperating the pencil from your template; i have used tape before to buy the tiniest of room ;ie certain inlays and tight fitting parts like cavity covers; but you would never see any difference; building up the tape to a noticable difference would scare me for reasons like softness uneveness and unwrapping; have you thought about (the name escapes me) the collars that guide your router; there not on the bit but for templates; usually screwd into the base; you might have to file down the height so its good for your templte, but they add size and come in alot of sizes

if you seriously want to go about making bodies to sell without having to assemble or wire or finish (just for the sake of playing with wood(i love it too)), i wouldnt mass produce one kind and try to sell them; but i would have it as an option on the side to do for people both custom and generic; that way you make them to order; no order, no waste there could prolly be a market for that, but to cover your time and materials the cost would be easier to swallow if customers came looking for you, instead of a deal on ebay

i dont exactly understand the desired outcome from this 'neck joint'(?) but the scariest thing for me about thin bodies is space for the electronics and screws

i used to just use a rabbet bit; but that started to look sloppy 2 templates is the way to go both my templtes are 1/4'' but taped some lifts out of the cutoffs and used my smallest flush bit

how "I" would do it is; have the truss rod inserted in the front and put a fb over it; and use the cut off from the back of the neck to make it; i would do this because "I" find rear mounted rods ugly and most times done poorly; and that way your fb is higher than the body; unless you make a 'sunken' type body that dips down after the front of the neck;

holes? do you mean holes in the guitar to put the strings through? or the holes where the screws go? or a tremolo hole? if its just a strat, go back to ebay and get a hardtail bridge ; then go thru the motions of putting it together

really, all he had to do was stick to 2 extra a side; 5 and 3 looks ugly even if the strings arnt wrapping around the underneath machine head

perfect; so anything above the regular ground/live/and split will prolly be active?

google images "les paul bass" search enjoy

just out of curiosity; how much you want for it?