low end fuzz

i dont know if theres any compatibility issuse; since the poly is tottaly cured; but fill it with black stick laquer ,level and buff

looks like sapele?

i definatly imagine the style of player i'd like to see playing it; and try to let that direct the embelishments........hit or miss really.

no; i understand; i didn't think i said anything to make you think otherwise? im sure my typing dosent come across like talking;

i liked this month alot, daniels acoustic was 'godly' a lot of clean projects; avenger-your definatly right on all your points from a 'contest/consumer' point of view; so thanx; but all my pickguards are glued in; for pure aesthetics; besides the tunnels routed prior for wire acsess; i would never use magnets in any way, on any piece of a guitar; excluding pickups of course;

pics makes it look like the gonc. alves but with slight figure/disturbances

its definatly no 'tiger' persay; but it sure is beautiful! good jarb!

St. Kitts eh? were yuo aware of the wood show in Hamilton (airport) this weekend; always good ; and for me i find it superior to the the Toronto one; exept exotics, hamilton has one dealer (my bud from the wood shed smithville) and T.O. has 4-5; but they got nothing compared to exotic woods in Burlington and A&M in Cambridge; thats available anytime; just some useless imformation!

you may not be insulting the piece; but your insulting a perfectly acceptable 'personal' preference; again welcome to the forum, where you get more flies w/ honey!

i love real chinese tung oil; it feels great smells awesome and did i mention feels great; but i used to use it and will prolly never again (on an instrument) because of what you said ;the drying time; the last time i used it was on a wooden tailpiece, months ago; it still hasnt lost its smell!

Sweet the T-dot! im from across the lake past hamilton; its a bit of a hike, but if you need anything special, swing down, got a full shop grant

that sucks!!; we got our buddies stolen gear back a while ago; we did the ebay checks and all that stuff too; what got them back was, we handed out 'lost' flyers to all the bars that had bands we knew of, w/ our phone# told them just to keep it behind the bar somewhere, on the odd chance it comes thru the the door; sure enough 5 or somtin months later we got a call about a band that played there, the law went to their jam spot and found both guitars and the head! lucky good luck.

T.V???

for my fretless beatle bass i used short scale flatwound labellas. brand name aside thats what i would suggest

ah no! stop! its not a ric without a high gloss bubububinga fingerboard!!!! seriously looks nice tho

if i tried to cut pearl with a scroll saw, i would hope someone would just shoot me!

im wondering what you guys find to be the best type of blade for cutting pearl? specifically circular type shapes with lil edges and stuff; the reason i ask.... ive used 2 styles with sucsess; all teeny tiny lil blades, one with all the blades pointing one way (i.e. down when in use) and a staggard type (dont know tech. name) every 3rd tooth or so is flipped ; apparantly to help on the upswing! but i find going around in a cicular fashion the blade gets caught and kinda twists wich leads to breaking; on my scroll saw if i was to do something in this pattern (much larger mind you) i would use those blades that were like spirals, with teeth every direction, even when you were cutting forward it was still freeing up space around back; anything like that in a jeweller style blade? something where the idea would be there, but not like chunks ripping out of pieces you already cut? thanx

nothing to reply to; just sitting back and enjoying the ride it looks nice; keep updating you progress, and if you have problems, ask questions, and you'll prolly get some good responses; just keep the thread up to date, ppl are looking grant

G-bass not as classy as others but my fave bass as of late; its an alder body with flamey walnut top, and padauk accent; with a curly basswood 'pickgaurd' inlaid in; butcher block style neck; maple bloodwood ebony, with a scarf of curly maple w/maple ebony and purpleheart accents; rosewood board with a p.h. support piece built into the neck (the rod was routed thru it) there are some embelishments on the headstock aswell feat. mostly bloodwood and padauk. gotoh tuners, baselines q.p. pbass pups ,a vintage style bridge, with volume tone controls (500k V 250K T) like most of my stuff theres alot going on; sometimes i shake my own head, but its my style and it makes me happy looking at a bunch of stuff going on while i play (partied too hard as a teen!) some sound samples are available on my bands (very new and unflashy) myspace page; myspace.com/runforcoverclassicrock its basically untouched exept for a bit of compression added; it was recorded live off the floor in my buddies apt. studio; i do want to get some isolated tracks; but if i can get you to listen to my band ,its just as good! thanx much grant

the butterscotch colour is an ancient secret recipe at fender your best bet is to start with an amber dye and compliment it with more yellows and browns to try to match the colour the best you can; remember to apply .dry and clear on your test piece before the real deal.

what are you looking for exactly? unless your my neihbour it would be hard to do, but as far as pre planning goes, just ask any questions and almost anyone with a membership can answer; the way i biult my first neckthru (first in general) was i stripped down an existing bass and copied everything from the nut to bridge (length, neck angle, fretboard height, width, pickup location) then just went nuts on some wings and threw it together; not the prettiest thing; but the planning stage waas the easiest

from that title, i was getting ready for a big laugh..........disapointed; yet releived

i couldnt think of anything that would fix that w/o looking horrible; ie fake skunk stripe; or graf of somekind; a new neck would prolly be the best way to go for the sake of a complete remedy; but working thin epoxy into the crack and refinishing it would keep it stable for any kind of playing and surely prevent further splitting; being that the wood isnt totally crap and detireiating on you!

i have always been a fan of those contrasting scarf pieces http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=8970...mp;id=502160892

if i follow; get rid of that veneer; sand it off and use the oscilating sander to feather a new point of joining with your board and headstock angle; if your trying to "save" a neck you can't have all this disecting of possiblities ,especially without an accurate picture; are your fret slots cut yet? if so you cant 'move' the nut; if theyre arent cut, and you r still trying to save this, how much smaller could the fretboard be following the taper a 1/2" further down the line?; unless your trying to fit a prefit preslotted nut, whats the real problem? definatly real photos would help; maybe a front shot head on; and a side shot, so we can see this veneer issue; grant