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biliousfrog

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Everything posted by biliousfrog

  1. biliousfrog
    looks nice, quite a similar concept to my current one, what a PRS singlecut should have looked like how about putting something on the headstock to compliment the contrasting wood on the cutaway....like the new Yamaha or Lag guitars in concept but maybe more curvy. I'm thinking, that bulbous bit on the end of the headstock...maybe have the same curve over that bit http://www.lag.fr/ http://www.yamaha-europe.com/yamaha_europe...GXA2/index.html
  2. biliousfrog
    thanks a lot folks I had thought about using a router to plane it, kinda like the big workshop planers but cutting on the side. The sanding method seems to leave a little less room for error & will likely be how I'll tackle things for now. thanks again.
  3. biliousfrog
    very nice work fella. I'm not sure about the top, it's just a personal thing but those two brown blobs near the bridge put me off. The other thing (not wanting to be a pain or 'owt) is the control cover on the back (in the gallery pics). Because the wood has such a distinctive pattern I think that the cover should either match perfectly (which would be very difficult) or be from another type of wood...maybe matching the neck or something. At the moment I find it distracting because it's neither here nor there. just my $0.02....I'm still blown away by your work.
  4. biliousfrog
    I'm having serious issues with planing a straight edge on a bookmatched quilt top. I'm guessing that it's because of the way the wood has grown but I can't seem to get a good clean cut with it...it seems like the grain is going in all directions & the plane is either digging in or skipping across the surface. are there any tips or techniques that I should be using, I'm using a long jack plane about 12" long (maybe longer)
  5. biliousfrog
    personally I think that the back is much prettier than the front, though not as dramatic
  6. biliousfrog
    ooh, that's nice...looks more like a bass shape than a guitar. The neck join looks very comfy
  7. biliousfrog
    a decent peizo system otherwise it will sound like those terrible stratacoustics....& definitely some chambering. I would guess that from your specs you might as well fit the graphtech ghost system to a Les Paul which will give you the mahogany body & neck, 24.75 scale & acoustic sounds PLUS all the electric sounds.
  8. biliousfrog
    there seems to be a problem with that link?.....is it THIS Sorry about the previous post, I've been trying to find a relevant tutorial or piece of info to back up what I said but got side-tracked....but anyway, no it wasn't very helpful I guess I just wanted to change the question from "what neck angle?" to "why that neck angle?"
  9. biliousfrog
    oooooh, that's purdy! I'm waiting with baited breath to see how you tackle that.
  10. biliousfrog
    the mockup was made from a few pics, PRS neck/bridge, some knobs from a parts seller etc, the body was a photo of some maple that I googled. I stuck them in photoshop & shaped the body & added the hilights & shading...changed the position markers...modified the headstock & played around with finishes. luckily we had a quiet spell at work so I could experiment a bit & get paid for it
  11. biliousfrog
    neck angle is determined by scale length & bridge height, it's not just something that is decided for design purposes. Les Paul's have a neck angle because the bridge is so high, Strat's don't have a neck angle because the bridge is quite low. Some SG's have the fingerboard higher & no neck angle....so asking for the neck angle of a PRS is irrelevent unless you make an exact copy & use the exact same hardware.
  12. biliousfrog
    there's no problem with using acrylic, I've used it without problems & it can be finished to an equal standard as nitro....the only issue is what you're covering. Acrylic's are normally quite safe over most finishes that I've found but not all of them. I'd use the same type of paint as the basecoat to be safe. If price is the issue search the net, you're using it now after all.
  13. biliousfrog
    I thought about a tummy cut but to be honest I'm really scared of routing out the cavities in front of it so I think that I'll leave it out....if it's good enough for a Les Paul...
  14. biliousfrog
    not sure about those, I was going to use these chestnut ones: http://www.axminster.co.uk/category-Wood-Dye-206897.htm the sample packs contain several different colours & should be enough for a top in each pack. Also Axminster stock the sanding sealers & laquers from the same company so they should all work together ok.
  15. biliousfrog
    thanks for your help. The tops arrived today, hoorah! The only problem is that I really mis-judged just how thin they are, a carve top is going to be almost impossible or at least look rediculous. Anyway, I've had an idea & would like some imput as to whether anyone thinks that this is a good or bad idea. I have a nice quilt top, a nice flame top & a fairly dull flame top (which looked much nicer in the photos). As they are all quite similar in colour I thought that I might stick the quilt on top of the boring one & carve quite close to the line using a routing template...that way the quilt will be nicely carved & the other top will only be seen as a natural binding. It might actually help with keeping the dye from bleeding onto the edge too! I drew a diagram but I can't upload a pic here so you'll have to use your imaginations
  16. biliousfrog
    You know, Ive NEVER seen a bass player play anything past the 12th fret, with the exception of Cliff Burton who used to play bass solos a lot, but then he never went past the 19th. I dont see the access really being a problem. then you've only seen a bass player not a bassist check Victor Wooton, Les Claypool, Jean Baudin, Billy Sheehan...... My friend hates only having 21 frets, he "needs that high E"
  17. biliousfrog
    I used to use it sometimes for kitchen worktops.... It's also known as bastard mahogany because it looks very similar, very nasty to work with, don't get any splinters or it will get infected, don't get the dust in your eyes & don't breath it! It's quite oily so I'm not sure how it will take a finish, we used to give it an oil finish.
  18. biliousfrog
    check out www.guytonguitars.com Andrew has built up quite a friendship with Brian & builds the closest possible replicas that you'll ever see. He got the opportunity to dismantle & even x-ray the original in order to clone it.
  19. biliousfrog
    that's looking good...I've gotta say that I actually quite liked the original headstock but it's your bass! Maybe you should consider rounding the edges a bit just so that it's less PRS like & fits with the smooth, curvey body better. I'm thinking Godin LGX's for example. My only real crit is that the neck looks like it's set a long way into the body, reaching those top frets (or rather, notes) will be quite uncomfortable & awkward.
  20. biliousfrog
    also.....dare I mention the variax? ok so it's not a bridge but as far as I'm aware you can program any number of alternate tunings which are processed as you play. There's also the piezo, hex preamp & guitar synth option which would allow similar options. just wanted to give you some other options to think about
  21. biliousfrog
    I'm going for a solid centre section with a large chamber under the holes & some smaller ones (including the control cavity) along the bottom for even weight distribution more than anything. The top will be 3/8" at the deepest point (where the holes will be) down to 3/16" at the edge. I hadn't planned on binding as I wanted to leave a natural strip like a PRS but.....I might get some maple veneer to lay under the maple top, going across the grain to give it some strength & maybe use it as binding too? The maple top is actually quite overdue so I might be buying from somewhere else in which case I'll go for a much deeper top, 1/4 - 5/8
  22. biliousfrog
    yeah that's what I was going to do but I'm not sure whether the maple would be structurally strong enough to hold together between the holes. Does that make sense? Obviously there's not going to be anything behind the holes so I'm concerned that the pieces between each hole (which are going across the grain) will be too weak & potentially fall out.
  23. biliousfrog
    My new guitar build requires sound holes which I would like to keep as a series of round holes rather than the standard "f" or fin shape. Find out more HERE I just wondered whether it's likely to weaken the top & cause the pieces between the holes to fall out? I routed out some channels once in an ash top across the grain & ended up with a crumbley hole I wondered whether the maple top is less likely to do this, whether anyone has experience with something similar & maybe has some tips? I considered glueing something to the back of the top, in chamber to strengthen it. Maybe a veneer with the grain going in the opposite direction or something else?
  24. biliousfrog
    Firstly, howdy everyone! My first post here although I've been regularly scouring the site for a few years (mainly the tutorial pages). I'm hitting the dreaded 3-0 at the end of the month & have decided to celebrate with an anniversary axe. I have limited space & limited access to large woodworking tools so I thought that I'd post my progress on a blog. That way people can leave comments, tips & hints & maybe encourage others to have a go at making their own instruments....after all it's the person making it not the tools right? Anyhoo....if you want to have a look, go HERE
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