VesQ

So how are those thunderbirds ? are those any good for shooting arrows ? Do they need helluva lot truss rod adjustment ?

So, the question is. What´s the longest neck you could do, using straight mahogany without carbon fibre reinforcements ? I see that some manufacturers use 25.5" scale on some guitar models with mahongany neck, but spec lists dont tell me if they used cf rods or not. At least i dont fully trust spec sheets offered by commecial webpages.

Inlay at 22 fret ?

More pics... Routed cavity for electronics. I´ll be using Gibson style pup-switch with simple volume and tone configuration mahogany neck blank with bubinga stripes wenge fretboard 25.5" scale ,slotted for 24 frets.

isn´t that too early ? Usually people let nitro finish cure month so or before buffing.

Glad you like it. I was bit disappointed by the lack of figure. Type bubinga in google and you find beatiful waterfall figured stuff. i thought that all bubinga would be the same. apparently its not.

Ok, so i just put down a pic what i´ve been up to so far. I though i need to try different pic hosting service. the one i mostly use is restricting me to put up image links. Made progress and de-progress with new neck which was scrapped eventually. There were few things i didn´t like about it and made mistake which sealed necks fate. So i´m making third neck for this project.

check this http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...9&hl=newbie

If the same number is calculated for all the frets it suggest me that either nut or bridge was moved.

What another thread, where ?

Body blank I use for my explorer is 12" wide 37" long. I´m making the body out of two pieces

Update... sort of. No pics this time. I got it all well thought out or least I thought so. Left some extra length on body pieces so that snipe from thickness planing doesn´t bother me. Also cut the shape which can be glued with ease without any corner jigs. But one thing I forgot .The tear out. Planing causes tear outs for sure in bubinga and mahogany and tearouts dont look good in glue seam. All this comes together with top joining method I was about to choose which was making sandwiches and joining them. And if I want sandwiches accurately joined I need them accurately thicknessed. I dont want glue seam at butt of the guitar looking like in this picture below. Also don´t have any thickness sanding machines at disposal so I´ll just hand sand the surfaces make body and top separate and then join those suckers together. I think I´ve my made decision.

I haven´t done much for the guitar body cause I´m thinking what top joining method is the best. Basically i have 2 options A - join bubinga tops on body pieces while they are still apart. only drawback of this method is that how am I able to join body pieces accurately with tops on. B - make top and body in separate and then joining them. I probably dont have enough clamps for this. Well anyway neck black is almost there. Still needs ears for the headstock though. There it is. I think cocobolo fretboard suits the most. Progress pics gluing the laminates http://imgplace.com/image/view/b120f086d9f...db242984195c232 sawing the scarf http://imgplace.com/image/view/f0fb2dc0dfc...56a807f69a10ffe gluing the headstock http://imgplace.com/image/view/ca284d71226...2f3e8d0776f78a7 Month ago I got the body up to this state http://imgplace.com/image/view/68cf93d97ef...f55c5c64f48df1b http://imgplace.com/image/view/4ec2982a84e...f32d4b3c58322f7

Did you check the actual print you used as a template ?

this what I use #1 fretboard to final size with handplane before gluing it and using fretboard as guide. #4 I used this method in my first build. Takes a hell of a lot time to sand even if there´s only one 1mm extra.

Ok. I´m trying to build explorer style guitar. I got wood and camera so I thought I might put some pics about the process. All I know so far is the body shape and wood I´m gonna use. Haven´t thought about what pickups or what bridge I need. I´m making the body from african mahogany and I was thinking if i could do bubinga top on it. I have some padauk and wenge which are the neck woods. Hopefully I´m able to join body pieces next week and come back with pics.

A quick question. I have some scrap pieces of wood glued together with titebond. Can I throw those pieces safely in fire place without deadly fumes ?

Have anybody heard that Eu is changing chemical policies ? They are about deny some products which include Methylene chloride or Dichloromethane. These substances you can find in some hardware store paint removers. I just thought this might useful info to know. This is what I am talking about. http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUri...08PC0080:EN:NOT

That BC Rich Neck really suits that SG body. Have you made any calculations where are you gonna put the bridge ?

Does that mean you´re gonna leave the control cavity as it is ? I hope not. When I was making cavities for my LP, I was thinking what grit sandpaper I should use. So the job doesn´t look like I was trying to pee while running.

Do you use brush to apply the paint ?

I don´t know if I dare to ask, but how much you paid for flame maple ? Did you buy it from Finland ? I´ve noticed it´s hard to come by with figured woods around here and if they do show up the price is really high. I´ve also planned LP project but for top wood I settled with flame birch. Oh and Welcome to the forum and good luck with project.

You checked floydrose website already ? http://www.floydrose.com/instructions.html

Well, I don´t know if you can count this as an innovation. But Some guitar builders seem to favor one piece necks and bodies without any glue join at all. So I thought it might be worth to attach fretboard with screws. Then I could say I´ve built a neck without a single glue join.

What´s wrong with that walnut ? Are you going to abandon it just because you did things in wrong order and don´t know what to do next ?