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curtisa

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Everything posted by curtisa

  1. curtisa
    Thanks guys. Used a bit of quiet-time at work to catch up on a couple of things. Jack socket: And string ferrules. Used RAD's method for drilling the ferrules and bridge holes this time round (detailed here - Thanks RAD!). Last time I drilled the holes using the "attach bridge/drill halfway/flip bridge to back/drill halfway" method and the ferrules still ended up wandering a bit. This time the result was damn-near perfect. Even used the Stewmac tuner counterbore to recess the ferrules. Worked like a charm:
  2. curtisa
    That's totally made of awesome, Brian. What model Ozito tablesaw is that? From memory one of the problems with the Stewmac blade is the mandrel required doesn't fit most cheapie saws. I might need to make a visit to Bunnies in the near future.
  3. curtisa
    I have a Makita router (the previous model to the current RP1800) which I've always been really happy with. Never missed a beat. Also have a cheapie Maktec (Makita budget version of the above) which has been surprisingly good for the money. I keep it permanently set up as my makeshift table router.
  4. curtisa
    Time to get the wheels rolling again. Little bit more progress on the neck this weekend. Thinning down the headstock and adding the nut shelf on the router sled: Experimenting with some ideas for position markers. The centre pin is red myrtle and the outer ring is maple. A little bit off-centre in the trial, but I reckon if I use a brad-point bit instead of a twist drill to hollow out the maple slug it will come out looking nice and tidy. Stu, if you're reading this, thanks so much for the explaination of your method for doing these concentric plug thingies!:
  5. curtisa
    Not a turned neck, but I think the idea in this video is quite neat. You could make your own repeatable neck profiles by changing out the "pucks" he talks about in the vid.
  6. curtisa
    It's loosely based on the Ibanez RG, but a lot of the curves have been reworked. The upper and lower horns are thinner, the "waist" (for want of a better term...) is narrower and cuts in closer to the pickups giving the body bigger "hips", and the shape of the curve around the bridge-end is more eliptical, similar to the Ibanez S or Yamaha Pacifica.
  7. curtisa
    Thanks Jaycee. I actually umm-ed and ahh-ed about taking a photo of the back as the Queensland maple had a really nice marbled pattern once coated, but opted not to as all the cavity covers still had their protective peel-off plastic still attatched.
  8. curtisa
    I'm liking the look of the 50/50 top and back combo. I have some slabs of timber here I was unsure whether to use or not because of the thickness of them, but seeing how yours is coming out now I think it may have tipped me in favour of going with an equal-thickness top and back for a future build.
  9. curtisa
    Thanks Muzz. I agree that the headstock is a bit sparse without a logo. It's something that I'll have to get on to for future builds. No, I'm with you too. The sheoak fretboard was a little bit disappointing once it was coated. The flame pattern lost a lot of contrast once the satin was applied, and tended to blend in with the rest of the timbers rather than stand out as eye-catching. Thanks for your comments though
  10. curtisa
    Ha! Right you are, wasn't looking closely enough. I still prefer the full 2 octaves or 22 frets on a modern superstrat though, but that's just me.
  11. curtisa
    Wow, only four entries this month? ScottR - Got my vote. The top alone on that instrument is worth a million points, and the all-the-way-through F hole is awesome. DemonX - Keeping up the high standard with your finishing as always. Love the colour. Not completely sold on the 23 fret neck - for some reason I've always preferred even-numbered frets on my necks, but that's just obsessive-compulsive-me . Shad Peters - Beautiful guitar. That buckeye burl is pretty crazy! A bit too intense for my tastes, but a stunning instrument nonetheless.
  12. curtisa
    There are wiring diagrams over on the EMG and Seymour Duncan website that should be pretty straight forward to follow (SD Blackouts are electrically the same thing as your EMGs). The most common mistake seems to be wiring up the output jack incorrectly. You need a stereo output jack to enable the battery to be disconnected when the guitar is unplugged to prevent the battery being run down - make sure you have the signal ouput wire wired to tip, battery negative lead wired to ring, and signal ground wired to sleeve.
  13. curtisa
    Uber-classy. That top is a vortex of coolness.
  14. curtisa
    Thankyou, sirs. After playing it for a bit I think the Wilkinson trem is my new favorite non-locking system. Minwax Wipe-on poly gloss, about 12 coats. Dead easy to apply. Just soak a rag in a small container of the stuff, squeeze out the excess and wipe it on. Gently sand back with 800-1200 grit between coats. Seems to be holding up quite well to regular usage, no obvious scuff marks on the front from my picking hand, and nothing on the back from jacket zippers, belt buckles or the like.
  15. curtisa
    SY6 Superstrat - "Deep Earth" Body - Queensland maple with Tasmanian blackwood carved top Neck - Queensland maple with West Australian sheoak fingerboard Headplate - Tasmanian blackwood Scale length - 25.5" Radius - 16" Trussrod - Allparts Tuners - Hipshot Griplock Nut - Graphtech black Tusq Frets - Jumbo nickel silver Pickups - Seymmour Duncan '59 neck, JB bridge Bridge - Wilkinson/Gotoh VS100 trem Electronics - 1x vol, 1 x 3-way toggle More photos and build thread: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.php?showtopic=46309&st=0
  16. curtisa
    Brutal-lv this time round for me. I'm not an LP guy by any stretch, but the body shape is tweaked enough to make me wish I could get my hands on it.
  17. curtisa
    Aaaaaand done. I wasn't able to hook up with my photographer-friend in time, but I think what I was able to achieve with the old "point and click" camera is a decent representation of the instrument in person:
  18. curtisa
    Thanks chaps. Why is it that the tiniest last few things always take the longest to finish? The guitar is done now, just waiting on a Graphic Designer friend of mine to help me with some decent photographs of the finished instrument. Pics to follow (hopefully) soon.
  19. curtisa
    Sweet Jesus, that's determination! I would've scrapped the whole thing if it'd happened to me. Although on second thought perhaps it opens up other possibilities - deliberately fit a contrasting piece in there, kinda like a Conklin melted top on a small scale maybe?
  20. curtisa
    If the bit Chris uses in those videos is anything like the ones I use it will be a carbide-tipped bit rather than solid carbide.
  21. curtisa
    Yah!!! Giant neck!!!
  22. curtisa
    Twiggy for me this month - a lot of interesting design ideas going on there that work well together.
  23. curtisa
    Dangerously close to being finished. Just the trussrod/trem/control covers to make:
  24. curtisa
    Out of the clamps and fretboard trimmed flush. Sorry about the crap pics. Mid-winter afternoon light makes for lousy photos:
  25. curtisa
    A fretboard gets its slots: And a neck gets its fretboard:
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