DannoG

Thanks guys, as to the finish, it just has 3 coats of laquer on it now, I'll put 2-3 more on and then play around with the toned coats. I have a brown and a cherry that I've done some tests with and am leaning towards the cherry for a light burst. I want plenty of clear down first in case I decide to sand back the toned layer. Dave, the pics don't show it well, but it is a setneck (mahogany). After I get the top dialed in a bit more, I'll grain fill the back. Maybe more photos then.

I figured I better get going on this or I won't have time to do the Carrieburst. Here's what I've been doing lately: Ready to put the dye on. With the dye on. After 3 coats of Laquer to seal things. Since I've never posted any photos before, let's all cross our fingers... Let's see if that fixed things - Sorry about the false start.

In addition to the shallow cut for the final, you can wipe the wood with a damp rag first. Not wet, just enough to swell to very top surface of the wood. This can help lock the fibers.

Trapeze tailpiece?

Sounds like a tension problem to me. I'd crank it a bit tighter, cheap tension guages aren't known for being accurate.

Make that 4. I have the book and have made a winder using some of the ideas from the book. So far only wound a few homemade P90 bobbins. But I just got an order of parts (magnets mostly), so now I can finish up those and make some more. Maybe I should get off the computer and go do that...

Aside from the issue of MDF being usable for a guitar body, I would advise you to use something closer to a hardwood just for the experience. When you route, sand, carve and shape the MDF it won't behave like the mahogany you plan to use later. I think you should find a local source for wood and get whichever of the following is available in the size you'll want at a good price: Alder, Poplar or Basswood.

Looks cool mdw, drop me a line if you end up near Eugene.

As a temporary, cheap alternative to a new drill press, take a block of squared up hardwood, such as maple and drill guide holes of the proper diameter in it with your drill press. Then use it to align your hand drill on the guitar. It is tricky to drill in just the right spot, but if you make carefull measurements it should work well. After you have used the guide a few times it will get sloppy and you can make a new one. for the string through holes you could make a guide that spaces all 6 strings precisely, using the drill press.

Sounds good, except I hate cheap tuners.

I guess the whole barn issue depends on the climate. Here in western Oregon, those conditions would result in rotten wood unless the barn was sealed in some unusual way.

Nice work Dave. Makes me see what might happen if I ever get around to my B. Limba sitting in the garage. How does it sound?

I just put some lemon oil on my PF board once or twice a year. Others may have their own preference for an oil used almost as a conditioner rather than a true finish. Just enough to keep the wood from drying too much and also to pop the grain. I wouldn't spray it with laquer, for instance.

I have bought mine from Crosscut Hardwoods in Eugene Oregon (good wood, no worm holes, cheap price). They also have a store in Portland, but I don't know about them selling other than across the counter.

R56 must mean 400 grit to start off with.

If you really have to have F-hoes, make 'em small, I'd hate to see any of that beautiful go away.

Welcome, please post photos of your work.

While I hesitate to tell anyone else how to get their nuts off... Try running a sharp Xacto knife blade along the seam between the nut and the rest of the neck. Finish on the neck or board may be helping stick it in place. After that, do as www says.

Happy Birthday fellow DC lover. Great photo, looks like a GOTM for May. Enjoy.

Let's all reflect on the reason copyright laws exist. To protect original creative work, so that it can not be copied for profit, thus depriving the creator of the benefit of of their work. This idea should not be applied any differently to individuals or big corporations. When Kench Buyers ripped of Project Guitar and other folks by selling CDs of their work it was wrong. If a big company has a design, they too have a right to keep others from exploiting it. The fairness of it is the same even if there are wealthy board of directors invovled. I think that this is all a big mess and I don't really feel sorry for any of the litigants invovled in any of what has been talked about. But the concept of copyright protection is valid and needs to be enforced. As long as most of us are small, hobbiest types, we won't have any pressure from the big guys. If any of us get bigger and more successful (or call attention to ourselves by contacting Fender or Gibson, no matter how well intentioned that contact may be), then watching out for copyright violations is just part of doing business.

If you have an ohmmeter, check the resistance. The neck pickup should be less than the bridge by at least 10%.

I like to keep an eye out for good used stuff. If you are patient, someone will give up a solid tool for a great price just because they don't use it much or are moving and don't want to haul it or they bought an even bettter (or bigger capacity) tool. I'll be scanning the newspaper ads tomorrow, like every weekend.

I took one of the Fender mini amps, cut it up into individual components, built a small wood cabinet and put in a decent speaker. It's not real loud, but it sounds pretty good, runs of batteries or a transformer and is small. I've played guitar while sitting in the back seat on a long roadtrip. I liked it enough that I bought another one to try some subtle changes, haven't gotten around to it yet.

I'm putting one in my current project, which will have two HBs. Won't have any actual feedback for a while (I'm way too busy to make any progress on it), but I think it should be a great way to go. My blender pot (from S-M) has the center detent, so you have some frame of reference as you turn the knob.

I have used the Watco before on a guitar neck and it is nitro. It worked okay.