Acousticraft

If it was a chrome grill it would have been a 50 and if it had blue cloth grill it was probably a 60VTX.

I would sand to 400 then I rub down with 000 steel wool. I use Danish oil and rub it on with a rag. Give it a couple of goes and the beauty of the grain really stands out. Keeps the fingerboard clean and easy to redo. Just rub down with steel wool and re coat.

Thanks guys for the info. I thought it would work the other way up. It justs means the adjusting rod is under compression instead of being in tension which in simple language means it is pushing instead of pulling as they normally work by having the nut at the bottom. I ended up making my own hotrod but it doesn't have the left hand thread at one end but works well and bends up real easy. I even had a length of brass plate to make the double nuts. I just need to get some of that plastic sleeving to go over the rods to stop any rattles. I made a round slotted adjustment nut as it was the easiest to make that way. Once I have the sleeving I can reassemble it and silver solder the nut to the threaded shaft.

Anyone?

I want to fit a hotrod truss rod to a Strat neck but have the adjusting nut at the headstock. The instructions say to fit it with the adjustable rod at the bottom but for a strat it would need to have the adjustment at the top. I cant see why it want work the other way apart from having to turn the nut anticlockwise to adjust for upbow. I am gluing the neck on the guitar I am building so i cant have it at the heel end. Anyone done this?

Are you meaning an acoustic or electric? An arched top guitar starts off quite a bit thicker than a flat slab axe. There are various methods such as a sanding pad with coarse grit on a 4" grinder to machine it off. You would need to mark some guide lines top and sides so the carve is even. Is this a cheapo guitar as I wouldn't try it on your vintage Les Paul Junior without prior experience?.

I have tried various methods and have found you want a perfectly flat block of wood that will cover the full length of the fingerboard at once. I glue on 180 grit 3M gold paper to my straight block with those glue sticks you use for paper and do all the frets at the same time. Use a straight edge first to find any high frets and file those down individually first. Once they are close then use your long sanding block. By using shorter things like oil stones you can still be up and down all over the place. The oil stone is brilliant though for filing of the fret ends and bevelling them. Use a permanent marker pen on the fret tops and it will show which ones are high or low.

The first thought was contact adhesive but that will show through as it is a brown colour. I would probably be tempted to use a little clear epoxy to glue it on with as it want show. If you can mask neatly around your logo this will stop excess glue going over the headstock and remove the masking tape once the epoxy has solidified but don't leave it too long.

Anyone used Formica or similar Kitchen bench top laminate for cavity covers. I think it would work OK and there are heaps of colours to choose from. Most kitchen manufacturers have off cuts of this material lying around.

I can see it will be great for milling the truss rod slot and doing the fingerboard/ neck edge to achieve perfectly straight edges. No more routing jigs for me. I can see I also will be able to achieve perfect neck pockets as well. I love it when a plan comes together.

I have one, and would recommend you buy one of those assorted router bit sets that come in a case and are very cheap to buy. If you bought them individually they would cost about 5 times the price. They have a range from about 1/4" up with various bits with guide bearings fitted. There is about 10-12 bits from memory in the set I have.

I teach metal work at a local high school and in my shop there is a metal milling machine which is basically used as a Drill Press. I am building a Strat neck so found a piece of Maple flooring off cut that was the right thickness and rough cut the neck profile on a band saw also in my shop. I then rough cut the shape. It dawned on me to try the milling machine for thicknessing the neck so I made up some holding down clamps and after school I clamped it down modified a radius cutting router bit by grinding off the guide bearing. I clamped it tightly in the chuck and milled the headstock to thickness complete with a nice radius where it steps up to the finger board surface. Even though it only spins at 2500 RPM it made a perfect job of thicknessing the headstock and neck and makes a perfectly uniform thickness and so quick. I can see why Leo Fender designed his necks like that now. Saves time and minimises material.

There is a guy locally that makes "Beltona" resonator guitars. I went and talked to him a couple of times and bought a fingerboard off him when I built my first guitar (Acoustic). He makes the bodies from fibreglass using a mould and has a Mahogany neck bolted on. Very nice looking but certainly an acquired taste. If you are building your own you would have to design the top to accommodate the resonator cone etc.

These dudes from Indonesia were around in the late 1950's and the sounds are from the late 50's early 60's. They have a range of video's on You tube and where real showmen. The guitar played behind the back etc. where obviously things the likes of Hendrix probably picked up from them. This is pre-Beatles, Rolling Stones etc. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FALutagdHNw http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iI9WjsmuXxk...ted&search=

The list could go on forever. Hendrix, May, Stevie Ray Vaughn, Gilmour, Page got to be the coolest most melodic guitar work out on the live version of Stairway to heaven on his double neck gibson, Blackmore, Morse, Clapton, BB King, Chuck Berry, Iommi, Mark Farner, Phil Keaggy, and the list goes on. There are heaps of talented axeman out there that should and dont get mentioned often.

I always use Melvyns method of fretting the string at the 3rd fret and making sure it has clearance over the first fret. I find this is good method of getting the lowest action possible. You need less clearance over the high E compared to the low E.

I have 3 students building guitars. One has designed his own way out body shape and the other 2 wanted explorers. With the helpful folk on this forum who gave me a couple of key measurements I scaled all the measurements of a large picture I found and drew up a template on cardboard on my drawing board, which the boys were happy with. Warmouth do explorer bodies as well and I noted they had exstended the neck pocket outwards instead of having the long tenon that Gibson uses to support the neck. They also make theirs to fit the Strat neck as well. I have done the same thing with the neck pocket with my design. They all wanted Mahogany so I picked up the wood today and machined and cut it in our school wood shop so it is all ready for gluing now. Those Explorers will be fairly heavy beasts when finished, no doubt about that

Go test drive some. I know from the Vox sites I go on, many have set out to buy Line 6 and been disappointed after comparing with the Valvetronic. I have an AD50VT which has 11 amp types and 11 effects. Some of the blue VTX 60 and 120 Valvetronics are going out cheaply as they are being discontinued which is a shame as they are a true giiging amp which can be used with a VC12 floor board.

Try Stewart MacDonald they probably stock them.

Have a look at the Vox Valvetronic range. Some killer sounds in them.

They are Korean made pickups made to Trevor Wilkinsons design. I havent used them personally but have looked at that Tele set Stew Mac sells several times wishfully. Hope someone else can give feed back re these pickups.

You could possibly put it in a press between a couple of blocks and gently push the radius back into it. What sort of metal is it? Die cast aluminum?

Youve already asked and been given the answers. Please follow the advise given. http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...hl=guitar+setup

If you clean and polish it you should be able to clear lacquer it to stop it oxidizing in the future

If it going to be glued then definitely not, but for bolt on it probably want matter.