bluespresence

Speaking of wood....I'm sportin' some wood myself after looking at that! Nice work!

I settled on skilled. I build 'em and fix 'em for money but I have a "real" job until I can afford to do this full time - what I really mean is until the wife says I can quit and do this! I also have a lot to learn which is why I depend on this forum and the repairs to enhance my building skills. To me it's better to learn on a cheap fixer upper and others experience than on a custom. I think I pretty much suck at playing but do practice at least an hour or two a day. Others seem to think I play pretty good. I can keep time which is IMO a very good thing for a bass player Current project (besides the ongoing repair work) is a '62 Strat from scratch. I have the body cut and shaped and should be working on the rest right now I will post pic's when it's done. Hopefully by Christmas..... Oh, and I have a J bass that was "done" 2 weeks ago but I ordered new pickups for it today. I just don't like the sound of the Fender pups for some reason. I ordered the Lace Sensor J bass set and I'll let you bass players out there know if they sound any good. I'll try to post a link to an mp3 since sound is a very subjective thing. I've heard the Lace Gold guitar pups and they blew me away. If the bass pups are half as good I may be permanently converted!

I agree with James. Check your ground connections - all of them. I finished a J bass a few weeks ago and on her initial official give her hell test drive I had the same problem. i popped the hood and found a "cold" solder joint. It looked solid but wasn't all nice and shiny. I must have jiggled the wire a little before the solder hardened up. I hit it with the soldering iron and got a good remelt and made sure to hold still this time. Plugged in the bass and no more funky pot problem.

Murphy's Oil Soap rocks!!!! Leaves a beautiful shine too!

Hey, Thanks for the great ideas!!! I've been absent since I went back to work I put in my 8 and come home and do my repair work for 8 more and miss my 8 I was putting on here when I was laid up. I have managed 6 guitar repairs and 3 paint jobs in the last 3 weeks though! AnyHoooooo..... I have a Peavey Fury I bought from a dealer that was rented for two weeks and looks like it got dropped out of the guys car and run over. I like it because I don't have to worry about it getting any more scratches, but it's in that "middlin" stage. Not quite shiny and purdy and not quite beat up enough. I WAS going to make it shiny and purdy again - but not now! It's relic material.

I have seen dots inlayed in the actual fret positions (not in between like normal) and also mother of pearl and abalone lines on the top edge only leaving the face of the fret board clean. Dots seem easiest as you only have to drill holes centered in the edge and pop in your material. Your painting idea seems very feasible. You could even double line on 12 for a "proper" look. Good luck!

Check here http://www.guitarelectronics.com/diagrams.html#oem then check your wiring and see if something is out of place or you have a broken connection. Sorry, that's all I can do from here....

B-U-Teeeee-Fullll! Abso-freakin-lutely Beautiful Work!

I don't think it's all that crazy of an idea however I would disagree with the table listed on the link. 5mA = some muscle paralysis in children (the can't let go syndrome) 10-15mA = same as above for most adults 20-30mA = Houston we have a problem 40mA-60mA = Uhhh, see ya.... I'm an electrician by trade (20+years) and these are the numbers we live by (or die by if you're not careful). Fast blow fuses are available in very small amperages as you found out, but I think you may have a problem with the filament being too fragile and breaking at the most inopportune time, like the middle of the solo you practiced for 3 months and finally played perfect. Like speedy mentioned you can pick up a wireless system on the cheap if you shop around. Find a local music store that does rentals and see if they'll sell you a rental unit for cheap. PS: I play wireless

Nevermind............. I went to get it tonight and it was sold today before I got there No SG for my bass playin' butt!

Oh, and what Ed said too......

All depends on what kind of wood you get. Poplar for 1 guitar about $15 Western hard Maple for 1 about $20 Exotics $20 to $200 or more Maple for a neck will run about $15-$20, mahogany or exotics more to much more. Fretboard wood for about $10-$20 If it's your first I'd recommend you start with the lower priced woods and get some experience before dropping big money on exotics. If you do go with exotics be aware that some of the dusts are toxic. These are based on prices I pay in the midwest, I don't know how much wood goes for in ibawhat?

According to Mighty Mite their necks come out of the same factory in Korea as Warmoth's low end necks ($150 and below), and I have never paid over $70 for a MM neck. Until I read this I was under the assumption that ALL Warmoth necks were US made. I read this on MM's site and previously posted the link. You can go to MM's site and read it in the forum if you want more info. I have only used the bass necks from MM (both the jazz and P bass) in maple/maple and maple/rosewood. My opinion is they are very good quality for the price you pay. I'm not a big fan of rosewood but I can say that the rosewood on the MM necks I have used has been a much harder and denser rosewood than what I have seen on some "quality" factory guitars. Or I may just be lucky and get the good ones I would not hesitate to buy another one.......... My 2 cents

OK, I don't have a picture so zip it back up! I have a chance to pick up the '64 SG I mentioned a few weeks back in a different thread and I'm looking for a ballpark figure on what it's really worth. All original (except the strings of course) The finish is "aged" well meaning it's a nice dark red wine color with the "crackly" lacquer to be expected on a 39 year old guitar. No dings, no chips, minor buckle rash and the lacquer is crackled (for lack of a better word) but not chipping or flaking off. Neck is straight and true, frets are in excellent shape and like I said everything except the strings is original. I have recently seen a '62 listing for $4500 in roughly the same condition, but I though that was an unrealistic price. Am I wrong?? This is priced at $1299 and I could probably get it for $1000. Thanks

Ok, I'm curious, but what the heck is "carriburst"?

You can find a reasonably priced truss rod at www.stewmac.com I just picked one up for a bass I repaired for $12 or so. You might want to get a few other items while you're there because shipping on the rod was $8.50. I picked up some 3 ply pickguard material for custom p-guards to make up for the shipping.

I haven't built ANY amps yet and I suck at playing too! Building a 2x10 is on my wish list when I sell a few of my basses. A wise man once told me, either build 'em or play 'em. Looks like most of us here are trying to do both...........

Welcome! Looks like you're already putting out some nice work!

Yeah, I missed it alright! I've been trying to figure out a way to NEVER go back to work for someone else. Someday maybe I'll find that thing that allows me to "work" at home doing what I love to do. Actually I'm hoping to gain enough experience to build guitars for a living. A dozen guitars a year at $8-10,000 each. I could handle that........Hey, I'm allowed to dream! As far as my knees, this is operation #3 for me. I was (un)fortunate enough to get osteoarthritis at a nice young age and spent too much time doing the 20+ mile a day running thing to completely trash them. I'm only 39 and have the knees of an 80 year old - at least that's how they feel. My only consolation is that it's not rheumatoid arthritis. RA can cripple you in 2 years. I'm still fortunate enough to be able to walk around with a limp and some pain, and when they get bad enough they can hack them out and put some fancy new composite knees in there for me.

To clarify "guitarbage" see link below. He sells a lot of guitars and bodies for "fixer uppers". I posted it before the auction ended last week thinking one of you guys would be interested in reviving these guitars. The blue one is in the link - the red one is the one Basiliskk666 got. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...egory=7266&rd=1 Ace: The holes in the neck can be filled with 5 minute epoxy. Use a needle or something thin to get the epoxy in the holes and the air out. Let it dry overnight and sand the area smooth. Put the neck on the body and line it up how you want it the use a drill bit, awl, etc. to reach through the body holes and mark your new hole placement. Drill new holes and install. I also use this technique for filling tuner holes that don't match up. I just don't like empty holes in bodies (wifey - are you listening ). A trick to use for holes that may be seen is to get some fine sawdust of the same color wood you are patching and mix it in with the epoxy. Once it's sanded and finished it is very difficult to see.

I'm an Electrician by trade that specializes in PLC programming. PLC's are like bare bones computers that run machines and processes. I work at a cheese plant (imagine that!) in central Wisconsin. I've been out of work for a month because of knee surgery which allowed me PLENTY of time to surf and find this great site. Problem is I go back to work on Monday. I don't have much time to surf at work (even though I have my own office) but I will check in frequently in the evenings. This site ROCKS!!!!!!!!

You go Jehle!!!!! Since I play bass I feel left out! Actually, there is a '64 SG hanging on the wall at the local shop (for $1299) with the original finish, frets, etc....I sure wouldn't mind that sitting on a stand in my toy room.

Looks like "guitarbage" to me! He's got some cool stuff at great prices doesn't he! I hope you turn back into the beauty it once was. You'll have to put the neck on and measure scale length to see what you have. I'm no Jackson expert but everyone seems to be saying you need a 24 fret neck. I'm sure someone can find a use for the neck you have. Including me......that would look just peachy on the strat body I just started.

39, except my knees, I think they're 99....... Watch out for that excercise when you're young. I should have spent more time drinkin' and smokin' then I could probably still walk without a limp....

We all were new to something at one time or another so don't be embarassed to ask questions. It's how we all learn. The "nut" is the notched thingy that your strings cross at the end of the fretboard by your tuners and peghead. Measure from the inside of the nut (neck side - not tuner side) to the 12th fret. Then measure from the 12th fret to the bridge at the point where your strings cross the "hump" if you will. This is called your "witness point". It's the spot on the bridge saddle where your strings first touch something solid. Those two measurements should be the same. If you have a 25.5 inch scale your two measurements will be 12.75 inches each. I play bass with a 34" scale so both of mine are 17" (17 + 17 = 34). Since your saddles are adjustable the second measurement may not be exactly the same but it is usually within 1/16th of an inch. If it's more or less make sure you measured correctly. Hope this helps.....and if I missed something or stated it wrong someone feel free to correct me. I searched and finally found a link with a picture. This should give you a better idea of what I'm saying above. http://www.trademarkguitar.citymax.com/pag...page/111141.htm