JohnJohn

It was an old table top that I came across one night.If someone had of sold it to me I would've been pissed.Considering how I got it I'm not too worried. My fault for never closely examining it.

Thought I had lucked out on a solid piece of mahagony.As I start to prep it for construction I discover it's very well veneered poplar.So,( saw someone mention this a few weeks back),I grabbed some extra wood I had and am making a poplar and pine tele with a maple neck and board. If the finished piece stinks then I'll use it as an experiment guitar to play with new ideas and techniques that I want to try.

I like the checkerboard.How long did that take you?

I've done this.I wouldn't use the top or bottom racks,just the middle.Getting too close to the element can result in burning.A heat lamp is best as you could get some warping in an oven.I set the oven at 150-200 and let it sit for 30-45 minutes,then turn off the oven and let the temperature stabalize.Pulling it out to quick can cause heat shock and run the risk of cracking,(kinda like a cheese cake). Also make sure that the oven vent doesn't have anything over it and the room is vented.And make sure you know your oven first-hot spots etc. Hope this helps.

That's a drag,gotta hate when stuff like that happens.

It's sorta like two pick-ups.Like darren said there is a switch to choose which neck.And each neck has it's own selector switch.

Good job.I like the Pensa one.

Looks cool.Mind if I scam your idea to do a Spawn one?

Holy -(you know the word ) that is incredible. That's what I love about this forum is seeing work like that.Great finish too,did you do that?Any other pics of work that you've done?

Welcome to the forum,hope you enjoy . IMO-find out what kind of laquer the shop will be using first.You don't want to accidentally use something that would react. Personally I've always liked doing the pore filler,just seems to bring out the wood. Some people don't like to use filler,which is cool. I like to condition,fill,sanding sealer,(all light coats so I don't choke the woods tone),and then do the stain or colour. Some people like to stain the wood directly,which does look richer,but I've always done it up a layer or two in case the person decides to change the finish later.But that's just personal opinion. Either way is cool and I've seen beautiful results both ways.

I saw the "Spearmint" guitar that Drak was working on,(looked cool), and in the thread he mentioned bleaching the wood. I've never done this.How do you do it,what do you use and why?

A few years ago I saw an article in a Guitar Player in regards to putting an acousic bridge on an electric. It was written by the fella who used to do the repair column before Dan Erlewine.I think his name was John Carruthers,don't quote me though.

lol To cook out the bean you need to soak it for 24 hours first in alcohol then add water and reduce about 1/4. To burn off the alcohol heat a pan and pour the fluid in away from the heat.The Shock of the liquid hitting the pan will vaporize the alcohol.Let stand open for 24 hours after to evaparate any remaining alcohol,(in a shallow pan). Vanilla beans are quite potent and can go a great distance. Squid ink is a good alternative,but would need to be cut due to it's concentration level. However,today I found black food colouring.It's made by Wilton enterprises ( http://www.wilton.com )They are based out of Illinios. Their address is Wilton Industries,Inc. Woodbridge Il 60517 The stock #is 610-981 The sample that I have is a 1oz concentrated paste.So it should extend a ways.I haven't had a chance to play with it yet. After clicking the link you can go to their on-line store.They accept major credit cards. If the colours don't come up in the list type "Icing Colors" into their search area and click basic set after.You should see "icing colors" in the list on the left. If anyone wants to try before they buy let me know,(if it's okay with the admins.),and I'll send you a small sample to try.

You'll do fine,just don't get exicted and rush it.

Could you post pics of your guitar.The no locking nut with a Floyd,(if I read that right),is a little confusing. Binding comes pre-made from a number of distributors,( try http://www.stewmac.com binding is the second item on the left),or some people make their own from wood. Warlock strap buttons can go on the back of the guitar at the end of the bass-side points.You can put them right on the points,but they can strip a little quicker there. So long as you're not using the tuning keys mounted on the plate you can use them on electric.Just depends if the guitar is in-line,(all in a row),or 3+3,(3 on the bass side of the headstock and 3 on the treble side). What do you mean by the bridge?The whole wood piece or using the bone saddle for something?

Go to http://www.carvinguitars.com and do a little looksee to find your piece.Carvins are good insturments,(Imo),and probably worth the work. I took a quick peek but didn't see what kind of clear they use,(someone here should know),but you could always e-mail them. You could give the neck a few passes with laquer thinner.That may start to remove the finish or soften it up enough to scrape it off,(just don' get too aggressive),worst case:you gave it a good cleaning .Just do it in a well ventilated area with gloves,mask and eye gear. If the body isn't too deeply dented you may be able to scuff the finish and spray overtop. Myself I usually lay down a coat of waterbase then prime,(for solid colours),first.Water base will accept and be accepted by anything.Just do a test in a small area first-best to be safe then sorry.

lmao-I meant for baking

That fern or spearmint is pretty cool.Are you going to try to duplicate it?

I was thinking of cooking off a vanilla bean and concentrating it. Professionally I'm a chef,so there's all kinds of wierd industry dyes that I can get my hands on.

I'm sorry I didn't get to see all the images,(my computer is loading really slow),but from what I saw your work and woods are beautiful.

If you know what kind of wood it is you can make same wood plugs to fill the screwholes.You'll just need to pay attention to grain direction to keep them as discreet as you can,(another trick with that is to carefully sand the plug while the glue still has some tack-that way you use the sawdust as a natural filler.Just don't go nuts with the sanding or you can create a groove.) Have you decided what colour you're going to paint it? Or are you going to send it out?

The fretboard gaurds rule.And you'll never run out of use for razor blades and Exacto knives in any shop. You can also go with the old 8,000 miles of masking tape,(just make sure your laquer has fully cured),and do a standard level.Or you can grind a notch into the head of a nail and draw that along. Scoring with a metal ruler and an Exato with a #11 blade,(takes a while but it's for best results),along each side of every fret before you begin any of the methods is always a good start.That way as you clean the frets the laquer will only chip so far. What? you're NOT supposed to chisel towards yourself?!? (j/k).

My bad it's Mahogany not cherry,(got a better look at it in the light).Cool Loads of maple downstairs.Forget the tele,I wanna PRS clone.

Check this out.Click english then go to the bottom then click agree http://www.nymphusa.com/tele/

Would this technique make a good even transparent black?