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jaycee

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Everything posted by jaycee

  1. jaycee
    Thanks for the reply. I have read about 20 of her essays and started to follow some of the suggestions that were recommended, and I must say they do seem to be making a difference. I have never had any lessons so for someone in that catagory it looks as if it will be a good investment
  2. jaycee
    That is cool. Nice one
  3. jaycee
    "The Principles of Correct Practice for Guitar" by Jamie Andreas Does anyone have this book and if so is it any good. I have read essays by the author and they seem to be quite interesting. but before I decide whether or not to buy it I wondered if any here have read it.
  4. jaycee
    Ok thanks guys . I was talking to a mate at the weekend who's a joiner and he also mentioned the lightness and stiffness of the spruce compared to ash
  5. jaycee
    Can anyone point me to a site that that describes the qualities and properties of different woods. E.G. I know that spruce is used for bracing on an acoustic, I may have a source for some ash which I may be able to use for the bracing instead. What I want to do is compare the descriptions of both find out what the main differences are and then make a decision based on that. It would also be a good reference site for further projects
  6. jaycee
    http://www.guitarelectronics.com/ Just look for your configuration. Click on the link at the bottom of the page on the left hand side I think seymour Duncan has diagrams as well
  7. jaycee
    Thats not what I mean . As far as I know that is a vertical (the more popular )way to laminate. The way I will do my next neck is this : Imagine you have the guitar in a playable postiton, the bottom of the neck profile will be dark wood, the middle will be light wood and the fretboard will be dark.
  8. jaycee
    I have done a horizontal laminate using ash and it seems to be fine. On my next project I will horizontal laminate again using a dark / light / dark combination I think that will look quite nice when its profilled
  9. jaycee
    You dont have to order from abroad, use the aforementioned suppliers but also gp to your local guitar / music shop. Many of these places will stock guitar parts or will order them in for you. I got mine for about £17 from the shop which ment I didn't have to pay p + P. If the shop has an account with the distributors they shouldn't add it on either ( at least my local shop never) They were from the guitar tech range
  10. jaycee
    Tite bond does seem to be the glue of choice and for my next bulid I will use it. But for my first build ( a strat ) I used Evo-Stik wood adhesive extra fast the one in the green tube, on every part that needed gluing. I.E. 2 pieces of ash for the neck, 4 pieces of pine for the body, and gluing the fret board to the neck, every thing has held together fine. From what I remember the titebond is very simallar but it has a more tacky consistency so you don't have to much movement when you clamp pieces together that you can get with evo stik. If someone could confirm the differences between the two glues I wouls appreciate it
  11. jaycee
    I have a 12" radius fret board which I put 8" radiused frets into and it worked a treat. Although it sounds like a big difference it isn't when you think of it. 12" radius equates to a 24" circle and 8" to a 16" so theres only an 8" size difference. So when the frets go in you are only putting a small amount of tension on them without actually bending them or putting a kink in the fret
  12. jaycee
    Hope this is can help http://www.gibson.com/PRODUCTS/TOBIAS/features.html
  13. jaycee
    Hope this is can help http://www.gibson.com/PRODUCTS/TOBIAS/features.html
  14. jaycee
    Ah something I can comment on with some authority. (thats novell) I have just finshed building a strat with standard parts all fitted to a body which is on average 32mm thick ! I used a hardtail bridge mainly for the reason given above. I have a 5 way selector switch, which has about 3mm of wood underneath it. I routed the cavity a little deeper to accomadate the extra depth of the switch, but only directly underneath it It plays and sounds good, if its any help its biult out of 60 year old pine floor joists. When I look at the regular strats in the shop they look absolutely huge
  15. jaycee
    Ah something I can comment on with some authority. (thats novell) I have just finshed building a strat with standard parts all fitted to a body which is on average 32mm thick ! I used a hardtail bridge mainly for the reason given above. I have a 5 way selector switch, which has about 3mm of wood underneath it. I routed the cavity a little deeper to accomadate the extra depth of the switch, but only directly underneath it It plays and sounds good, if its any help its biult out of 60 year old pine floor joists. When I look at the regular strats in the shop they look absolutely huge
  16. jaycee
    Ah something I can comment on with some authority. (thats novell) I have just finshed building a strat with standard parts all fitted to a body which is on average 32mm thick ! I used a hardtail bridge mainly for the reason given above. I have a 5 way selector switch, which has about 3mm of wood underneath it. I routed the cavity a little deeper to accomadate the extra depth of the switch, but only directly underneath it It plays and sounds good, if its any help its biult out of 60 year old pine floor joists. When I look at the regular strats in the shop they look absolutely huge
  17. jaycee
    As far as I am aware the surface area between the bottom of the neck and the neck pocket is the most important factor here. I.E Strats have about 75mm of body on the bass string side and about 20mm of body on the high E string side, so like I said that contact area between the neck and neck pocket is the crucial part. Take a neck plate is at least 60mm x 50mm your pocket is going to be about 70mm x 55mm Have a look a few strat pics for examples
  18. jaycee
    Well Dave as the others have said you seem to have it pretty well covered. Just remember if you can't do it in your head don't put blade to the wood, and just when you only got a few more passes to make with the plane and or chisel STOP and put another sharp edge on it Happy building
  19. jaycee
    If you have to turn the truss rod nut a lot then there is something off which an adjustment will not do. So the best thing to do is loosen it off check the trueness of the neck and take it from there. I always tune my strings from flat to sharp that way you will have the string under tension when in tune
  20. jaycee
    Adamski
  21. jaycee
    what does it smell like?
  22. jaycee
    I remember the taylor guitar and what was said about the build quality being the most important. Personally I think the days of "having the correct tonewood" are fading away. If you think of some of the materials that are used in guitar construction, and some of the low quality woods used on inexpensive ones that can still sound ok then why not use timbers that are considered not to be the right ones. I have have just used pine for my strat body . Laminated 2 pices of Ash ( one on top of the other not side by side) and put on an American Oak fretboard, and it sound pretty good.
  23. jaycee
    I have recently finished mt strat and although the fretboard scale was spot on mt neck pocket was to deep (as in the length ) so I had to reduce the scratch plate by 2mm in order for it to ft, and have a little room to play with.
  24. jaycee
    Couldn't you get a pic og one ans reverse it in a paint or graphics program ? That would give you some idea. Just trying to visualize it I think it would look cool Couldn't you get a pic og one ans reverse it in a paint or graphics program ? That would give you some idea. Just trying to visualize it I think it would look cool
  25. jaycee
    My initial opinion is no. But it's allways safer when doing that much sanding to wear a mask, have plenty of ventilation and work outside if possible.. If your worried enough go and see a doctor
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