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Fret Bender Build Questions


Woodenspoke

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Why would anyone pay $103 when the stumac is under $100?

GB

Edited by Woodenspoke
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I want to try to build a bender like the one Jay did, and I'm sure it wouldn't be a problem,

except for the brass wheels. I have no clue where to get hold of them in Norway.

Could anyone give me a hint to where I could go to get them in Europe, or preferably in Norway.

Or possible alternatives I could use that would work in the same way...

Thank you!!

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You don't need to have a roller that has any curve. Any bearing will do just fine. Its not the shape if the guide rollers but the ability to roll when pressure is applied to them by the main roller. Try skateboard bearings (or any small bearing)and resize the screw to fit the hole. If you look at the picture in this thread of the Stumac bender it has flat bearings. Just adjust the plate for the differences in size.

The most important issue in jays bender is the washers. I would look for a more expensive washer with more exact specifications (military specs). In the US, MSC has a great selection and I believe you can order some washers individually. You want a smooth outer surface. The inner washer should be around .04" or 1 mm in width. If you can find a thick outer washer you are set, I would look for at least double the thickness of the inner washer. The difference in the two washers, inner washer to outer washer diameter should be at least a .02" or 5mm difference. You want to have a slot that is at least 2.5mm or .1" deep.

I hope this helps.

GB

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I built one last year and it looks similar to Soapbarstrats

In all it cost me $24AUD to make

I got the parts from a local hardware store, auto parts supplier and the handle (which believe it or not was the hardest part to source) from a caravan spare parts supplier

Oh, and it works a treat

dayvo :D

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here is the one that sold for $103

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...em=120083204541

He is selling another one but this one has a buyit now of $175 :D

http://cgi.ebay.com/Fretwire-Bender_W0QQit...1QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks for the link. Interesting take on the bender. Forget about Elvis still being alive. What about Rube Goldberg still being alive ?

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A year or so ago I was looking at the picture of the old Stew Mac bender that had the two grooves and started looking for anything that was similar to it. Ironically, after looking all over it turns out that I think the original middle wheel was just a Mig Welder part, called the Pressure Drive Roller. You can see it a bit closer on this webpage, look at the Hobart construction.

mig welder page

What the pressure feed roller does is to feed the wire for the Mig welder. The reason it has two slots is to feed various size wire for different jobs. You can actually buy them with just one slot nowdays, but most of the old ones came with two. I went to a local shop that sells welders, etc. and they gave me a couple they had out of old mig welders that was damaged. I still have them, but I never did get around to building a fret bender. I'm not 100% sure it's the same thing Stew Mac used or still uses, but it sure looks exactly the same and even had the same groove size... it's too ironic, and if I know Stew Mac, they usually assemble things with parts already made by other companies. Just a little insight on the subject.

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The only problem with those rollers is the depth, you need a pretty deep guide bearing to span the two slots. I don't think Stumac used any off the shelf pieces, The original was a brass roller and the new one I read is steel with one slot not two. Your best bet is to find a local shop and have them make one for you. I am lucky I have a metal lathe which makes items this like this easier. If you do have your own lathe I suggest 12L14 steel which is very easy to machine into a roller on any lathe.

I cant believe a machine shop would charge you very much for a roller from scrap. The hard part is walking into the shop and asking how much.

Woodenspoke

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The only problem with those rollers is the depth, you need a pretty deep guide bearing to span the two slots. I don't think Stumac used any off the shelf pieces, The original was a brass roller and the new one I read is steel with one slot not two. Your best bet is to find a local shop and have them make one for you. I am lucky I have a metal lathe which makes items this like this easier. If you do have your own lathe I suggest 12L14 steel which is very easy to machine into a roller on any lathe.

I cant believe a machine shop would charge you very much for a roller from scrap. The hard part is walking into the shop and asking how much.

Woodenspoke

You very correct. Stew Mac doesn't use the old wheels with the two grooves anymore, just one groove that fits most wires. I was just providing the information for insight into how they changed designs over the years. Stew Mac probably makes them now, but you never know, I wouldn't bet my life on it.

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Another eBay Disaster. I started looking again after the last two eBay URLs were posted

Fret bender with kit

If you have ever used a bender before the biggest problem here is the wire goes down not up.

I especially like the last eBay bender " $175" (for rich folks) looked like a tricked out super bender. Hey we are only bending fret wire not going to the moon. I think Jays bender is a more practical design.

I remember seeing a whole array of benders on ebay over the years which is why I think Stumac continues to sell theirs with impunity(no real competition).

GB

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  • 1 year later...

Hi I made a model similar to SM the ball bearings I got from VXB and they are a grooved bearing and the centre wheel was made with washers.

Cost for the fret bender.

Handle $32.00

Ball bearings $20.00

The brass plate was from old door kick guards that I had around for years.

The screws and washers were a few bucks.

Fret bender

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Hi I made a model similar to SM the ball bearings I got from VXB and they are a grooved bearing and the centre wheel was made with washers.

Cost for the fret bender.

Handle $32.00

Ball bearings $20.00

The brass plate was from old door kick guards that I had around for years.

The screws and washers were a few bucks.

Fret bender

Rehashing really old posts. I am selling a few in the classifieds for less than that. All assembled and ready to go.

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Just thought I'd add for any of you guys thinking of building a bender and want to keep the costs down as much as possible : The ball-bearings don't need to be the grooved kind. Both my StewMac and Woodenspoke benders have "flat" ball-bearings and there's no way grooved bearings would make the units work any better. I have a feeling I've said this before.

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Before knocking off the grooved ball bearings. And I do not mean the ones that you use for doors, which are cheaply made. Now just because you don’t like them does not mean that other people have to dislike them on your behalf. There is more then one way of doings things. And by the way if I build some thing I like to use the proper parts since the handles for windows are meant for windows. If I were your customer and seen poorly made tools I would have to ask myself do I want a guy that makes bad tools repairing my guitar.

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I don't even own a self-made bending machine. I have the expensive ones sold by 2 popular Luthier supply companies, and both those units have "flat" bearings.

Now, you're trying to say you go the extra mile to have tools with the "right parts", yet your bender has a rigged up budget notched roller made out of washers . LOL !

Edited by Project Guitar
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As for the washer that I am using it is temporary until I find the brass rod I need since this was only the prototype. I am a cabinetmaker by tread and not a machinist. And looking at your site I see that your professionally made bender is using 3 washers. If I would have know that this was your site looking at your tools and their condition I don’t think I wouldn’t even trust that you would do a good job since you can’t do a good job maintaining your tools. Try cleaning them from time to time and then de-rust them and maybe a good oiling or greasing would do them a world of good. Since you believe them to be good other people may not think so. As I side before there are more then one way of doing thing and one of them is not to dictate (as in dictator) to others. And were does it say in the rules of the forum that it must be Roberts way or the highway? As I can remember that the rules were to respect other opinion since there are more then one way of doing things. And for the fact that I don’t really care about your opinion Mr. I have been on the Tread Secrete cover.

Edited by Project Guitar
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Before knocking off the grooved ball bearings. And I do not mean the ones that you use for doors, which are cheaply made. Now just because you don’t like them does not mean that other people have to dislike them on your behalf. There is more then one way of doings things. And by the way if I build some thing I like to use the proper parts since the handles for windows are meant for windows. If I were your customer and seen poorly made tools I would have to ask myself do I want a guy that makes bad tools repairing my guitar.

The only thing soap said was to those who would like to save some money the grooved bearings are pointless and in having a woodenspoke bender that I got from him a while back I can attest to the same thing, not necessary. Yes, if you want to spend more money on the tool your are more than welcome, but for those who don't like pissing money away, it was sound advice. J

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And looking at your site I see that your professionally made bender is using 3 washers. If I would have know that this was your site looking at your tools and their condition I don’t think I wouldn’t even trust that you would do a good job since you can’t do a good job maintaining your tools. Try cleaning them from time to time and then de-rust them and maybe a good oiling or greasing would do them a world of good.

No wonder your such a bitter lunatic, you're going blind. That bender has a one piece machined brass roller with two different sized notches machined into it (original StewMac made). As for all this "rust" you apparently see on all my tools, get to the eye doctor and see what's wrong with you. Yeah, I make some dust in the shop and don't spend much time cleaning every bit of it up, but I'm quite picky about rust. I once had a little spot of rust starting on the column of my drill press and I took care of it right away. I once had a straight-edge sent to me with a small spot of rust. I sent it back. I've got a couple of really old vises that have a medium amount of surface rust, but on those, it doesn't matter to me. A little rust on my 1940's table-saw too.

Oh what's the use, many of us have already seen in your profile that your out to cause trouble .

Too easy to make fun of you. I like more of a challenge.

I'm glad to hear you wouldn't trust me. Whatever it takes to keep crazies away, is priceless to me.

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Before knocking off the grooved ball bearings. And I do not mean the ones that you use for doors, which are cheaply made. Now just because you don't like them does not mean that other people have to dislike them on your behalf. There is more then one way of doings things. And by the way if I build some thing I like to use the proper parts since the handles for windows are meant for windows. If I were your customer and seen poorly made tools I would have to ask myself do I want a guy that makes bad tools repairing my guitar.

The only thing soap said was to those who would like to save some money the grooved bearings are pointless and in having a woodenspoke bender that I got from him a while back I can attest to the same thing, not necessary. Yes, if you want to spend more money on the tool your are more than welcome, but for those who don't like pissing money away, it was sound advice. J

Not that I want to interject in this conversation, But being one of the two bender builders in the US I have to agree with Soap. It makes no difference to the operation of the bender to use grooved bearings. The main roller slot and the fret wire tang is all that is necessary for proper operation. Some cheapo skate board bearing 608zz are just fine, at about .50 cents each (ebay). Plus the hole is approx 5/16".

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