darren wilson Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Hey, folks... i haven't posted here in a while. Thanks to my buddy Canuck Brian, i got back into building again just before Christmas of 2009, and my first prototype is done! At least for now. Here are the specs: Body: Figured walnut, 1-piece Neck: East Indian rosewood, 3-piece laminate with a scarf-jointed headstock Fretboard: East Indian rosewood, 24 frets, 27" scale, 16" radius, side dot inlays only (Luminlay) Frets: Medium-tall nickel-silver Pickups: Custom Nordstrand, 1/4" pole pieces Electronics: "Free-Way" 6-way toggle, master volume, master tone (currently not wired), Neutrik locking output jack Tuners: Black Sperzel Trim-Lok Nut: Earvana Compensated Tuning System Truss rod: StewMac double-expanding with spoke wheel at the neck heel (EBMM style) Bridge: Black ABM flat-mount with Wilkinson-style saddles Strap buttons: Black Schaller locking Finish: Polymerized Tung Oil on the body, lemon oil on the neck, matte acrylic on the headstock face Planned mods: GraphTech GHOST piezo system. You can view the whole buildstory here. Complete! At least until i decide to start modifying it and swapping out components to test other ideas. Rear view. The aluminum control cavity cover is a quickie that i fabricated just to keep the innards from spilling out. It does a decent job, though! I’ll probably get better plates fabricated, likely from aluminum. View from the butt end of the guitar. Curly black walnut body. You can almost see the Luminlay side dots glowing in the daylight! Here you can see the radius on the top of the body. It’s approximately 16″, so everything follows the arc of the fretboard radius. It’s slightly flattened in the middle to allow easier mounting of the bridge. Inside the cutaway. Pretty effortless access to the 24th fret. Recessed controls. I like that they’re sunk out of the way. Future builds may be a little less recessed, as it does pose some issues, mainly because there’s some wobble to most pots, which causes the knurled knobs to make contact with the walls of the recess when attempting “pinky” swells. Here you can see the organic blending of planes, lines and curves… visually interesting and extremely comfortable. Neutrik locking jacks are superbly engineered, but are a little bulky. I chose to recess it, protecting the jack and cable, and giving a cleaner appearance from the front. So there you have it. I'm extremely pleased with the tone and playability of this guitar. It's the first of many more to come! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Johny Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Amazing work! Really clean design. I'd buy one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 Very nice guitar. I have a few comments for you don't take them personal as I mean no harm. I understand the shape, not a fan, but it makes sense visually. I like the design ideas. The curves are all things I have considered. I don't think the finish on the body comes through in the photos (I have had similar issues so that is why I am commenting on it)... Not sure why it is bothering me. Maybe the shine? Those polymerized tung-oil finishes usually have too much other stuff in them and tend to look wonky. Have you waxed it yet? Why a bolt on neck? Jack plate is hideous. Once again I should know because I have one to fix on one of my builds. How is the weight as a whole? It looks like you are taking some ergonomic ideas from Brian Moore and Rick Toone. If so weight would be a real factor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 regarding the pots catching when turned -it could be that they are not a perfect tight fit on the shaft so they will be pushed slightly off centre when the set-screw in the side of the knob is tightened. If you can then try wrapping the shaft in something to pad it out before tightening the screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormLeader Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 I love everything about it, except the control cavity cover makes me want to yack. I think black plastic, or just about anything would go with the wood better than the aluminum. Just my personal opinion of course. Anyways, keep them coming! -Stormy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CainMD Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 damn those pickups look almost like the double buckers that come on warwicks. i think this guitar is badass, great work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 regarding the pots catching when turned -it could be that they are not a perfect tight fit on the shaft so they will be pushed slightly off centre when the set-screw in the side of the knob is tightened. If you can then try wrapping the shaft in something to pad it out before tightening the screw. I actually use a piece of 80mm pick in the split on the shaft to stop the set screw from crushing the shaft and causing knob wobble... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormLeader Posted July 15, 2010 Report Share Posted July 15, 2010 regarding the pots catching when turned -it could be that they are not a perfect tight fit on the shaft so they will be pushed slightly off centre when the set-screw in the side of the knob is tightened. If you can then try wrapping the shaft in something to pad it out before tightening the screw. I actually use a piece of 80mm pick in the split on the shaft to stop the set screw from crushing the shaft and causing knob wobble... WOO! I've been bothered by the fact the the pots on my Warbeast wobble due to them being a split-shaft, that's a great idea! Thanks a lot! -Stormy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren wilson Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Well, pots wiggle, with knobs on them or not split-shaft pots seem to be even worse. Personally, i hate split-shaft pots when i'm not using push-on knobs. I need to find a better parts supplier that has solid-shaft pots. When i'm using split-shaft pots with set-screw knobs, i always align the set screw with the split, so it won't be squeezing the pot closed when tightened. With regard to the aluminum back plate, yes, it's rough, and it's temporary. (Doesn't anybody read the words between the pictures any more?) Why a bolt-on neck? Why not? Check out http://decibelguitars.com/anatomy-of-a-neck-joint/ for a full rationale behind why i chose to do a bolt-on neck vs. other neck styles. As far as the finish goes, i'm not totally thrilled with it. I'm used to using pure tung oil, and this was my first try at using the polymerized stuff. This is my first build in a LONG time, and it's a prototype, so i'm trying different stuff with it. I may outsource my finishing to someone who's got the equipment and expertise to do a pro job of it. I intensely dislike painting, so i'd rather have someone else do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Well, pots wiggle, with knobs on them or not split-shaft pots seem to be even worse. Personally, i hate split-shaft pots when i'm not using push-on knobs. I need to find a better parts supplier that has solid-shaft pots. When i'm using split-shaft pots with set-screw knobs, i always align the set screw with the split, so it won't be squeezing the pot closed when tightened. When you find a supplier for solid shaft push/pull pots please pass it on... I use more push/pulls than anyone on this forum. With regard to the aluminum back plate, yes, it's rough, and it's temporary. (Doesn't anybody read the words between the pictures any more?) You are asking too much. I read it... it was so hideous that I commented anyway. Just so you know I made my templates tonight to fix my elephant in the room. Why a bolt-on neck? Why not? Check out http://decibelguitars.com/anatomy-of-a-neck-joint/ for a full rationale behind why i chose to do a bolt-on neck vs. other neck styles. Ok so while prototyping I get it. Sorry I let my personal hatred of bolt-ons cloud the rational for using them. As far as the finish goes, i'm not totally thrilled with it. I'm used to using pure tung oil, and this was my first try at using the polymerized stuff. This is my first build in a LONG time, and it's a prototype, so i'm trying different stuff with it. I may outsource my finishing to someone who's got the equipment and expertise to do a pro job of it. I intensely dislike painting, so i'd rather have someone else do it. Me too. Outside of oil finishes I would be ecstatic if I could find a local to put clear on. However the locals are greedy... and not very good at it. Also I said "Don't take it personal" I am trying to help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren wilson Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Why a bolt-on neck? Why not? Check out http://decibelguitars.com/anatomy-of-a-neck-joint/ for a full rationale behind why i chose to do a bolt-on neck vs. other neck styles. Ok so while prototyping I get it. Sorry I let my personal hatred of bolt-ons cloud the rational for using them. : Why the bolt-on hatred? I don't mind bolt-on necks at all. They also let you adjust the neck angle after the guitar is completed and strung up, which is something you can't do with a set neck or neck-thru. :shrug: Chances are, i'm going to stick with the bolt-ons for a while. Using the large-head connector bolts with T-nuts embedded under the fretboard makes for a VERY solid neck joint, and i can remove and re-attach the neck pretty much forever without worrying about the holes stripping out and having to potentially dowel and re-drill them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuffinPunch Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 I have to admit that I love almost everything about this build! I actually really like the shape. The walnut looks fantastic. And your logo is great! Im with everyone else about the temporary control plate, its awful... Change it ASAP for an all around awesome 7 string guitar!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Well, pots wiggle, with knobs on them or not split-shaft pots seem to be even worse. Personally, i hate split-shaft pots when i'm not using push-on knobs. I need to find a better parts supplier that has solid-shaft pots. When i'm using split-shaft pots with set-screw knobs, i always align the set screw with the split, so it won't be squeezing the pot closed when tightened. solid shaft are definately better for this - but i still think you could try something on the shaft of the pot to improve it. Just aligning with the split still allows a lot of room for wiggle what pots are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ae3 Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 That's one sexy, curvy axe, man. You blokes up north do some fantastic stuff. About the cavity cover, yeah an rosewood one would look killer but the aluminium looks good too. Anything is better than boring old plastic. Can you explain a bit more about this Luminlay stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormLeader Posted July 16, 2010 Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 You said that the new one will most likely be from aluminum as well. Unless you anodize\paint them it's still going to be eye sore IMHO. It's just like, the body, fretboard, and neck are all dark and beautiful woods, then BAM there's this big chunk of bright shiny metal. -Stormy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren wilson Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 You said that the new one will most likely be from aluminum as well. Unless you anodize\paint them it's still going to be eye sore IMHO. It's just like, the body, fretboard, and neck are all dark and beautiful woods, then BAM there's this big chunk of bright shiny metal. Well, it's on the back of the guitar. I also like purposeful, honest use of materials. If it's an aluminum plate, just let it be an aluminum plate. That said, i am looking at either brushed aluminum or black anodized brushed aluminum plates. The anodizing would be more to protect it from pitting and corrosion than just making it "not silver". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren wilson Posted July 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 16, 2010 Can you explain a bit more about this Luminlay stuff? http://www.luminlay.com It's phosphorescent material cast into thin dowels with a white outer coating that promotes internal reflectivity. They offer it in green and sort of blue/aqua. It was easy to work with, and looks great. It's visible in daylight and glows nicely. (They also provide a blue LED pocket light for "charging" them.) They also make a version with a black outer layer for light-coloured fretboards. I'm quite pleased with it, and definitely plan to use it on future builds! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted July 18, 2010 Report Share Posted July 18, 2010 Can you explain a bit more about this Luminlay stuff? http://www.luminlay.com It's phosphorescent material cast into thin dowels with a white outer coating that promotes internal reflectivity. They offer it in green and sort of blue/aqua. It was easy to work with, and looks great. It's visible in daylight and glows nicely. (They also provide a blue LED pocket light for "charging" them.) They also make a version with a black outer layer for light-coloured fretboards. I'm quite pleased with it, and definitely plan to use it on future builds! Those look pretty cool. I also like the anodizing idea for control plates. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
darren wilson Posted December 3, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 You guys will be happy to know that the guitar now has a new control cavity cover on it, courtesy of Dave Wescott at Frets On The Net. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scatter Lee Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 i hope i can find some figured walnut someday, that looks great, nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TemjinStrife Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 i hope i can find some figured walnut someday, that looks great, nice job It looks even better in person... almost like the sand ripples you get in a stream. Hopefully I'll get to see and play the finished product in a month or two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 I like the guitar, it is reminiscent of Rick Toones claro walnut guitar. I think the only thing that really set me back a bit about the build is the"knob wobble" ..... I think its a design flaw in the recesses more than "all knobs wobble" . If the pot is mounted right and the knob is too, there should be no "wobble" . That would make me nuts ! If you can't do volume swells , something is wrong........ my opinion only. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 i hope i can find some figured walnut someday, that looks great, nice job http://oregonwildwood.com/Merchant2/mercha...=EGLamTopWalnut theres a linky to some nice walnut..... can't buy it for you tho , sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Menapia Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 Thanks for putting up that link ,I hope they post to Ireland. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
3DogNate Posted December 3, 2010 Report Share Posted December 3, 2010 Yeah I'm with RestorationAD on the finish. Looks like you've built too much gloss up to still have open pores... I'd knock back the gloss with some 0000 steel wool for a nice clean sheen that actually works well with open pores. Gloss and open pores just looks like a poor finishing job... The guitar is nice otherwise... and good call on the black control cover, the raw aluminum was horrid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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