bob123 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Ok... here I go ... wish me luck gents! Specs -> Flame Maple / "black" Oak laminate neck "black" Oak Fret board H/H, wilkinson trem setup Graphtech carbon nut black hardware Light Blue/Green burst flamed redwood top (not a dragon burst, just a light burst of blue/teal ish in the middle) Ash Body wings. Electronics will be dimarzio tone zone/ air norton combo, individual on/series/parallel switching with coil tap switches ( push pull vol/tone, 2 switches) Liking the look, but hoping it gets darker as I go on. and bought some titebond III to try out. II is good stuff, but lets see if III is any better Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmth Builder Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 You should only use Titebond Original (the red bottle) for guitar building. IIRC the titebonds that are waterproof (II and III) don't fully dry like original to allow for movement of the wood, and therefore are more susceptible to glue creep. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 You should only use Titebond Original (the red bottle) for guitar building. IIRC the titebonds that are waterproof (II and III) don't fully dry like original to allow for movement of the wood, and therefore are more susceptible to glue creep. I saw this thread http://www.guitarscanada.com/guitar-building-methods-techniques/42097-titebond-iii-glue-revisited-some-testing.html and went for it O.o. Too late now haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 Keep moving forward, Bob. The goal of the first build is to finish. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmth Builder Posted April 15, 2012 Report Share Posted April 15, 2012 I saw this thread http://www.guitarscanada.com/guitar-building-methods-techniques/42097-titebond-iii-glue-revisited-some-testing.html and went for it O.o. Too late now haha. Very interesting, would be good to see a creep test done against all the leading yellow glues. At the end of the day Titebond original is the cheapest so... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FireFly Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Actually, the problem with waterproof PVA glues is that they don't accept finish the way nonwaterproof ones do. Creep has to do with your joint and clamping systems IMO. So as long as you didn't use too much glue, you cleaned up any drip, and your joints are sound, you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 The way they make it water and heat proof is what causes the creep. There's been a lot of discussion here. Titebonds II and III are not for this kind of work. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Ok, note to self, just use titebond 1 Well I ordered 6 ft of jescar med/jumbo wire, and bought this top off ebay Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Woah. Is that redwood? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Woah. Is that redwood? sure is Noticing a trend... why the HELL is figured redwood soooooo cheap? I got that piece for 30 bucks! A similar maple piece would cost 100+... I dont understand lol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muzz Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Ok, note to self, just use titebond 1 Well I ordered 6 ft of jescar med/jumbo wire, and bought this top off ebay Score Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Heavily flamed redwood is much easier to find than heavily flamed maple and redwood is very soft...that's why it's cheap.For now anyway.If it gets popular the price will go up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 Heavily flamed redwood is much easier to find than heavily flamed maple and redwood is very soft...that's why it's cheap.For now anyway.If it gets popular the price will go up. lol, well should I be worried about any structural issues? Its not a thick, carved top or anything, just a quarter inch, my studs will go deeper then that. I think I'm gonna start hoarding figured redwoods and makore. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dpm99 Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 It's used mostly for acoustic soundboards. I'm looking for something like that right now. Where did you find it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 It's used mostly for acoustic soundboards. I'm looking for something like that right now. Where did you find it? PM For you sir Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted April 16, 2012 Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 No structural issues I wouldn't think.But if you really think you are going to dye that top green then good luck..That is why most people charge so high for white maple.I would like to pick up some redwood tops myself if you wouldn't mind sending me a PM about the source? For what it's worth,I personally would seal the entire guitar,tape off the top,paint the rest of the guitar gloss black,then untape the top and put some cherry translucent coats over the entire guitar(minus fretboard)and then clear...redwood is so naturally red it really doesn't work to color so well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 16, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2012 No structural issues I wouldn't think.But if you really think you are going to dye that top green then good luck..That is why most people charge so high for white maple.I would like to pick up some redwood tops myself if you wouldn't mind sending me a PM about the source? For what it's worth,I personally would seal the entire guitar,tape off the top,paint the rest of the guitar gloss black,then untape the top and put some cherry translucent coats over the entire guitar(minus fretboard)and then clear...redwood is so naturally red it really doesn't work to color so well. I've seen some people with darker blue dyed redwoods that came out pretty good. I was thinking about bleaching the wood to get a proper color actually, how bad would that be? Wont stop me from seeing what happens anyway Worse comes to absolute worse, this is the route I will go but here is a guy that did blue stain over his, I think it came out ok Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 First off, my respect for you guys intensified about 1000% today. Started on neck shaping today.... WOW its a lot of work haha. I didnt have a router template for the floyd rose shelf, so I humped it with a rasp, sandpaper and a sanding block... took about 2 hours? I cut off a chunk of the neck, and sawed off a 1/2" cross section of it about 6 inches long. I beat the **** out of it, took every thing with a smile. Finally got it to break, stuck the chunk in the vice, and took a mallet on it repeatedly. The maple broke, but not where it was glued lol. I feel very confident about this glue for now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 You shaped the neck already????? Boy, i hope you have your truss rod installed and fretboard glue already, if not... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted April 17, 2012 Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 Staining softwoods directly can be a major pain. Seriously consider simply sealing and spraying a tinted lacquer over the top. Or a combination of both - stains and sanding back to accent grain, tinted lacquer for an even final color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 17, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2012 You shaped the neck already????? Boy, i hope you have your truss rod installed and fretboard glue already, if not... No, I just flattened to part for the actual playing side. Its still flat and over an inch thick of wood still. Tryin to figure out the best way to shape the headstock right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
demonx Posted April 18, 2012 Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 How do you plan to clamp the board to the neck if you've shaped it? Something to think about. Most people shape the fingerboard to size, glue it to the neck then carve the neck back to the fingerboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 18, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2012 How do you plan to clamp the board to the neck if you've shaped it? Something to think about. Most people shape the fingerboard to size, glue it to the neck then carve the neck back to the fingerboard. lol Id figure something out if I did that haha. Right now its just routed flat on the back. Im gonna be attaching the fretboard and body wings today. Perhaps getting some top routing done? Who knows. Maybe my top will come in today! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 19, 2012 About this time, I wish I Was doing a bolt on now hahaha.... I've made some foolish mistakes that would be super duper easy to fix on a bolt on, but this is difficult. Attached the fret board, realized too late that I should have shaped the damn thing before gluing it on hahaha. Now I have some VERY careful routing to do, but nothing I can't handle. Decided to just sand the headstock down with 50 grit sandpaper pad on my belt sander If I try to saw it out, Im afraid I'll "miss" and cut something wrong. I have to plane down the body part to accomodate for the top... which is gonna suck, but I'll survive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bob123 Posted April 21, 2012 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2012 haha! Got frets slotted pretty well! my little home age jig wasnt the most accurate depth wise, but it worked well! I can square off the fret depth by eye, and adjust the fretboard thickness to match. Then decided how to plane the body, so I just took a few blocks of wood and made a sliding jig to go around the body, worked out really well. Still waiting on the top peice.... but I got my jescar fret wire in! Im probably mentally deficient using stainless steel frets for my first build, but I should be allright. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.