Prostheta Posted October 16, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2015 That sounds fantastic and makes me wonder whether an evolution of the basic router thicknessing jig could be take to pin routing. My first thoughts go straight to using CNC-like linear motion rails, however drawer slides or simple bearings might be just as good. Food for thought and I'll definitely keep that one in mind. Cheers :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 I've cleaned the shop creep mess from the table saw, and mounted the pin router. It's a lot more robust than I remembered. It doesn't LOOK like it, but it will not move once it's slid down into it's locator holes. The two interlocking bushings corresponded to two router bits giving me a 1/8" and a 1/4" flush cut with the pin, if that makes sense. But, I have just come up with another fantastic use for it out of necessity, and will document it well. I'll have pics of it in the next day or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 29, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 I'm sure I could fabricobble an overhead pin router at some point too. The big boys like Onsruds, etc. are maybe a little overkill for non-shop level work. Damn, they do a good job though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 (edited) So, this was thrown together to prove concept and hasn't even been tested yet but you get the idea. It had a very low clearance as it is, the only thing it was going to be used for was body side shaping with a template. I might try building another using a trim router.Cutting height is adjusted with the plunge, and width can be adjusted with the bearing sleeves the pin fits into and the bit size. I didn't mean to hijack your thread, but the sled you were showing reminded me of this. Another way to make a DIY pin router is table mounted router, then an arm to hold a pin. Many people use drill bits as pins which gives you a lot of adjustability in your cutting widths. The weight of the router hangs under the table, and is probably more stable. BUT, I have figured out one thing this pin router can do that a table mounted pin router can't. Working much like the LMII and Stewmac binding routers, allowing the bit to "come out of space" into the workpiece, it isn't constricted by requiring the piece to be on a flat surface. You could cut a binding channel on a carved top guitar as long as the back was flat, or if you created a sled much like the LMII binding router uses it could have a non-uniform back. Edited October 30, 2015 by komodo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted October 30, 2015 Report Share Posted October 30, 2015 One more quick thing, doing a very similar concept to yours but with a sled that rocks back and forth on an arched surface can make a fretboard radius jig. I was fascinated with creating a radiused body for a long time and intended to build a larger version to do just that. Just search DIY radius jigs in the Google to se some fantastical ones. The bass I posted a week or so ago has a radiused body and dished in the back, but it was totally hand done. After doing that, even using a flap sander, the idea of building the body radius jig has reared its head again. LOL Really though, mostly it's about consistency, not really ease. But when you build several of these large jigs, then it becomes about SHOP SPACE. We should have a large jigs in my shop thread. Ha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted October 31, 2015 That's fantastic! I was using the big monster pin router today to make parts for the pantograph....damn that thing just rocks....The router sled idea for a radiusing jig is quite an old one, and I think I remember using it myself for my very first builds. A bit of miscalculation, but it did the job really well. For a body....totally! If you made both a concave and a convex set of sled guides you could easily go one further and make a negative workholding bed for the body to do front AND back....!Don't even get me started on storage space....I'm drowning in tools and wood, and simply begging for things to move forward on permanent workspace for PG. Even if it's a lockup garage on an industrial estate just to put all my crap in it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 7, 2016 Whoa....as if I let this one slide for THAT long. Insane. My wife and I made the sled tonight. Just need to finish the cam locks and re-check the platen for flatness. The router is a real POS as a plunge router, so this is probably all it is good for. Even then I bet it sucks. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted April 9, 2016 Report Share Posted April 9, 2016 Very neat work, @Prostheta Blast! Another project to add to the increasing list... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 On 09/04/2016 at 10:06 PM, Andyjr1515 said:heta Blast! Another project to add to the increasing list... Me too! I've been offered a planer/thicknesser by a mate of mine for reasonable cost, but really don't think I have the room for it. I'll have his bandsaw & dust extractor off him, but I think a router thicknesser bed would be far more practical & probably more accurate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 That and it doesn't snipe the ends of your boards! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 1 hour ago, Prostheta said: That and it doesn't snipe the ends of your boards! Yes indeed. I have a great thicknesser (Makita) but it still snipes at the infeed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted April 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 There's a cheat for that - glue on a couple of strips of service material either side, longer than the material you're planing. The service material goes in first and is the last to leave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted April 11, 2016 Report Share Posted April 11, 2016 10 hours ago, Prostheta said: There's a cheat for that - glue on a couple of strips of service material either side, longer than the material you're planing. The service material goes in first and is the last to leave. They say the best solutions are the simple ones....great tip - thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2016 I'll be finishing this one up soon and taking it to a project tutorial. Changes over the original design include alterations to the cam clamp reach and flexible plywood buffers attached to the inner surfaces to stop the cams from shifting the work as they "act". I also need to make a few small counter-acting wedges and buy some double-sided tape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
10pizza Posted May 31, 2016 Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 great topic. While waiting on my glued top to dry I've built myself a jig similar to your design #1. I'm using threaded inserts to secure the wood into place while routing. I'll get a picture tonight when I'll be doing a test with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted May 31, 2016 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2016 As long as metal stays well away from the cutter, you're golden. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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