spottydog Posted October 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2018 The new piece is now in and sanded and looks good. Here is a pic of body after attacking it with an electric plane to thin it out prior to sanding. I had to take about half the thickness to get it correct with the neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted October 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 I have started to fret the fretboard but I am having a problem with the frets not sitting flat and sticking up at the ends. The radius is 12" and the fret wire is pre formed and cut. I have tried the frets against the fretboard and the radius of both matches and when the frets are placed against the fretboard they sit correctly. I have checked the slots and they are deep enough. Many thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 28, 2018 Report Share Posted October 28, 2018 You should be over-radiusing the wire. For 12", go to 9-10". That way the wire seats better at the ends and only needs work at the centre where it spreads the barbs outwards slightly in the slot. You should be able to hammer the ends down, but they might be popping back up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted October 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2018 many thanks that has helped also slightly bending the ends of the frets so that they sit closer to the fretboard. does anyone glue the frets in. I never have but am wondering if I should as some of the frets keep coming out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted October 30, 2018 Report Share Posted October 30, 2018 I don't glue frets. Popping up is a sign of bad seating which should be dealt with as a cause rather than using glue to fix, really. Slots are either oversize, frets are springy (stainless does this) or the slots were mashed by the frets going in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted November 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2018 Now got frets sorted and fretboard fixed to neck. Now onto shaping back of neck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 I have had this exact same problem with frets. In my case, I think the prob was my hammer was so forceful in the middle it was popping the edges out a bit (not saying that's your prob - I have no idea). My most recent one I switched to a tiny hammer, just lightly tapped each edge, then used a drill press/caul to go all the way, and also used super glue. def listen to prostheta - he's a real guru. really like where this build is going. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 Thanks man, but there are so many people out there far more capable and knowledgeable than myself! Hell, I learned from them myself. My go-to hammer is a 370g dual face hammer from Thor Hammer: https://www.thorhammer.com/hammers/nylon/31-710r.html I've never found the need for a brass or copper face hammer. A good fret slot with bevel, correct depth and slightly over-radiused wire should almost seat itself. At least, it feels that way. What works for me might not easily work for somebody else, so that has to be borne in mind. What is definite though, is that good clean straight slots and the other details make the work easier. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 don't sell yourself short boss... your work speaks for itself. to me... even with pre-slotted boards - the frets are the hardest part. Really struggled with this and still do... but am getting better and I think part of that is from your advice (and others, of course), so thanks for that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 I've not used pre-slotted boards for years....can't comment on whether they're any easier or not. I've had reasonable success with hand-slotted boards (literally, by hand and eye) but nothing like what you get from a good mitre slotting box jig, then following up with a saw and depth stop to radius the slot depth. It's genuinely gratifying that I have helped in some way! It really is. The main thing is that practice and applying a bit of thought back into the process makes the experience a progressive one. Nobody likes hitting a wall, and nothing puts you off getting better. The people I work with now are fantastic and so much more able than me in so many ways. Rather than feel overwhelmed or out of my depth, I just feel there's so many roads to explore and venture down. When you stop learning or finding new ways to learn, that's when you lose the capacity "to be good". Happy to be a learner myself. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted November 5, 2018 Report Share Posted November 5, 2018 not the best student here, but despite that many have learned me much around here! very nice community. still working on some sort of slotting setup here... i bought a sliding mitre but too much slop in the slide to be 'error proof'. Even the top dewalt at home depot... you can push the saw left and right with ease. Have been considering buying a cheap radial arm but have no idea if it'd have the sm problem. in the end the $35-50 for a nice board vs $20 for a nice board and then having to do the work... puts it on the 'someday' list for now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted November 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted November 26, 2018 Hi, prostheta the thor hammer sounds a great idea. I use a rubber hammer at present is the thor better than this and also do you need the hard and soft side as I have seen the hammers with two soft sides would these be ok for fretting. Many thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted February 20, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 Hi guys, Sorry it has been so long since I have posted an update on my build, my only excuse is that I have been busy with other projects for other people. I was not happy with the fret board I made so I took it off the neck and have made a totally new fret board. I have now got a new fretting saw a Zona 35-380 Dovetail Razor Saw with 18 TPI and a kerf of 0.20" it is very sharp and ideal for the fret wire I use. It is much more accurate than my old saw. I have also got myself a dual faced hammer. In fact the one I have has four interchangeable heads and came from Homebase. I think it was around £7 but it is a brilliant hammer for fretting, much more positive and accurate than the rubber hammer I have used previously. I have now started to cut the neck joint and pick up cavities. so we are slowly getting there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted February 20, 2019 Report Share Posted February 20, 2019 Sounds good! New tool day is always the best of days. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted February 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 Have now routed pick up and neck pocket. Still a lot to do. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 1 hour ago, spottydog said: Have now routed pick up and neck pocket. Still a lot to do. wow, that's turning out really nice. have you mentioned what finish you are going to go for? with it being all blonde like that I would think something lighter in color would look great. keep up the great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted February 21, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 I was thinking of using an antique pine stain to bring out the grain then maybe an oil finish with a dark stain on the fret board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mistermikev Posted February 21, 2019 Report Share Posted February 21, 2019 1 hour ago, spottydog said: I was thinking of using an antique pine stain to bring out the grain then maybe an oil finish with a dark stain on the fret board. sounds cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted February 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Thanks for the kind comments about my build. I will post further construction details and pictures as I continue the build. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 10 hours ago, spottydog said: Have now routed pick up and neck pocket. Still a lot to do. Looking good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 22, 2019 Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Looking very nice A white-burst/limewash could work well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted February 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 22, 2019 Sounds good but never done a burst finish before so probably just stick with a solid colour. Anyone any tips for putting binding on a carved top guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andyjr1515 Posted February 23, 2019 Report Share Posted February 23, 2019 20 hours ago, spottydog said: Sounds good but never done a burst finish before so probably just stick with a solid colour. Anyone any tips for putting binding on a carved top guitar. I find binding a challenge and so will let cleverer folks guide on that. But the one thing I do know, is cut the binding channel before gluing the neck (which I'm sure you already know) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norris Posted February 25, 2019 Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 On 2/22/2019 at 12:45 PM, spottydog said: Sounds good but never done a burst finish before so probably just stick with a solid colour. Anyone any tips for putting binding on a carved top guitar. It's easier to do before you carve it - or at least to cut the binding rebate before you carve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spottydog Posted February 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2019 I think I have worked out a method for cutting the binding rebate on a carved top but next time I will definitely cut the rebate first it will be much easier when the top is still flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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