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Project: Aquilae 50 (Strandberg influence)


JouniK

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Just now, JouniK said:

Finally got sound out of this thing after little bit of struggle and troubleshooting with electronics...yeah it is a mess down there. Difference with normal pickups Fishman Fluences have 3 wires / pickup more to control the different voices and coil splits. To my surprise I got the wiring diagram correct the first time which I am pleased. Thanks @mistermikev for helping discussion on this. This was also the first time for me to execute and plan a whole wiring scheme.

The first plug-in was not successful. No sound what so ever. After troubleshooting with multimeter the reason was poorly clamped dupont connector on the battery wire. I settle upon using dupont connectors to help changes in the future if I want to change the wiring regarding the pickup voice select and switch positions.

Here are some pickup after all the setup done. String action set (Truss rod, nut filed, bridge saddle height) and intonated. Still some work to be made. Control cavity plate needs some work and a truss rod cover to be made. A waterslide logo etc. design etc.

 

awe shucks... glad I could help.

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30 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

keeping the lid on when mixing the turps to the hot wax created a lot less smelly vapours in the kitchen

I added the turpetine after the wax mix was liquid and off the stove. Lid on to cool down.

32 minutes ago, Bizman62 said:

Just how odourless was that odourless turpentine you used?

It did have a smell to it. I have not smelled turpentines so much to compare but the Crimson Penetrating Finishing Oil did have very strong odor comparing to this. I guess they use normal normal mineral spirits/white spirit to thin the oil.

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Thanks, I have a bottle of Crimson oil so it was easy to compare.

Sticking my nose into the bottles told that regular Pine turpentine has a stronger yet cleaner smell than Crimson Penetrating oil. On the Crimson label it says that the oil contains White Spirit which in my understanding is the same as Mineral spirits.

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Total weight is 2.64kg. I am getting a bit of neck dive although no traditional headstock. Probably the flaxwood neck with hipshot headpiece is so heavy comparing to the body...or the strap screws are not at the optimal position. I did not want to sacrifice breaking the upper horn if I placed the strap screws at the tip of the horn so I placed it a little bit lower. I have to take a look at some counterweights to the control cavity or at the other end of the strap. Any suggestions?

Apparently I also have to modify the dimarzio straps because apparently they are too long at the shortest setting for me and too "slippery". Did not think I have to learn to sew during this project. 😄

Edited by JouniK
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The strap button at the horn of the lower bout is an obvious reason for the guitar being neck heavy, the huge nut is not helping there. Extending a counter weight in the style of the endpin of a cello would keep the weight down but fitting one would be challenging for your body shape.

One option would be to add a metal strip (red) connecting the tips of the lower bout. That would both work as a counterweight and provide more options for the strap. A curved tube (blue) is another option, the only problem being how to fasten it.

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I experimented with some duct tape and figured that I would need approximately 550-500g more weight if placed it at the end of the strap. Then the neck would sit straight or a bit upwards. But first I will shorten the strap and sow some suede at the back to prevent sliding and then evaluate the situation again.

3 hours ago, Bizman62 said:

One option would be to add a metal strip (red) connecting the tips of the lower bout. That would both work as a counterweight and provide more options for the strap. A curved tube (blue) is another option, the only problem being how to fasten it.

Interesting ideas. Do you think that lowering the strap position along the red strip would help? I do not have tools for doing any metal work but piece of veneer plywood could work and attach it with screws. Have to think how that will look.

Probably have to test more with duct tape (hopefully not ruin the finish with glue residue)

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10 minutes ago, JouniK said:

Do you think that lowering the strap position along the red strip would help?

Actually not, vice versa. The current position is better for a neck heavy guitar. However, if the red strip were of steel or brass and weighed about 500g you might have to rethink the strap position. Plywood is way too lightweight.

A simple option would be to put the strap button on the back closer to the bridge line. The effect would be similar to adding mass to the lower bout.

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not that you need another 2 cents on this... but

if the neck is diving... and this were mine... I'd move the upper strap pin closer to the centerline of the guitar.  basically on the back of the heel.  or move the tail pin further from centerline.  It'd be a shame to add a piece of metal imo because the guitar is so beautiful and that would foul it for me. 

also, I'm a big fan of the sg and most I've owned had neck dive.  I've replaced tuners (obviously not an option here) to some success... and used straps with raw leather back to minimize it.  had gone with bigger metal knobs to weigh down that side.  at one point I had added some sinker(fishing) weights to the ctrl cavity.  I hate to add weight to a guitar but I'd hate more to do something that would visually compromise it. 

just one a holes two cents. 

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1 hour ago, norm barrows said:

How does .strandburg* balance their Boden?    I take it their neck is lighter?

Somehow with years of practice and prototyping. I never even thought about neck dive and strap buttons placement during design since I thought that removing tuners and most of the head will remove this problem. Their bodies are hollowed (mine was solid alder and poplar burl) and the forward side strap buttons I think always at the tip of the horn. I guess their necks are lighter than mine. Probably also lighter side wood because they strenghten their necks with carbon fiber. Bodens have also zero fret and no individual nut.

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15 hours ago, JouniK said:

years of practice and prototyping.

That's why weighing every individual part is recommendable should you ever build another of the same design.

For us hobby builders such measuring doesn't help as much as each build is different from the previous ones.

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Tested by attaching the strap at the tip of the horn with duct tape actually got this balanced just right. But the horn is quite pointy and narrow. I am afraid that it will crack/break at some point. Thinking of drilling a bit larger hole than needed and fill that with thin epoxy hoping that the epoxy will soak in and strenghten the wood fibers beneath. Then also doing a looser pilot hole for the screw.

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50 minutes ago, JouniK said:

Tested by attaching the strap at the tip of the horn with duct tape actually got this balanced just right. But the horn is quite pointy and narrow. I am afraid that it will crack/break at some point. Thinking of drilling a bit larger hole than needed and fill that with thin epoxy hoping that the epoxy will soak in and strenghten the wood fibers beneath. Then also doing a looser pilot hole for the screw.

sounds like a good approach.  if it were me I'd just drill slightly smaller than the threads and put some poxy on the threads after doing a dry install.  could make a wood plug, screw into it... then glue into horn.  just 2 cents.

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37 minutes ago, JouniK said:

Tested by attaching the strap at the tip of the horn with duct tape actually got this balanced just right.

That's great news!

A longer screw with a loose enough pilot hole might help strengthening the horn enough. I was also thinking about a long threaded insert but that would require drilling even more wood away. 4 mm may be the thickest you can run through the strap button, in that thickness the longest available flat/dome cap screws are at least 60 mm long.

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Another tip: When drilling and screwing into delicate objects like the horn, apply pressure to the sides. Clamps, rope or tape, whatever to prevent the wood from splitting during drilling and screwing.

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  • 2 weeks later...
16 hours ago, JouniK said:

Easter gave me time to do some sewing, glueing and drilling.

Attaching the strap to the tip of the horn was successfull without cracks and splits. Thanks @Bizman62 and @mistermikev for advises. Drilled a looser pilot hole for the screw, first I did a dry install and used clamps to support the horn from the sides. Then soaked the screw hole with thin ca glue as much as I could. Let that dry over night and then fastened the screw and strap buckle. Used the longer and bigger screw that came with the DiMarzio strap. Success! No extra weight needed to correct the balance. No more neck dive.

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Also modified the DiMarzio strap shorter. Teared apart both ends of the strap also the buckle part. Used thick gel like ca glue and phenomenal sewing skills of mine :D

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Comparison with the original strap length. This removed also the issue where the wider part of the strap was resting on my collarbone.

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"i love it when a plan comes together"  that upper horn is really thin so you should be proud to have pulled it off.  a real nail biter I bet.  congrats.

 

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  • 1 month later...

I planned on doing the logo to the control cavity cover but...yeah what can I say...not very good planning on doing a waterslide to a black background. :D Well I probably leave this as is and in some point in time do a another cavity cover or do something with veneers that have in storage.

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  • 5 months later...

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