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Progress Of My Jem Style Guitar


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Is that free from mind, or did u use a template for the body and monkey grip?

kinda free form, i downloaded the CAD drawing of the Jem with monkey grip, cut out the monkey grip with a scroll saw

like i said more sanding!!! lol

Fixing link now

Curtis

I cut the body using a paper template that i traced ontot my board

Curtis

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  • 4 weeks later...

OK, I recived my fingerboard (THANKS LGM!!!) and now I can really start motorin it, ohh yea baby, lol

I am still unsure what the scale length of this fingerboard is, it doesnt seem to be 25.5, but maybe my template is wrong....always a possibiltiy

Anyways, heres a little teaser (i hope its still allowed, if not, it will get removed)

Jem10.jpg

Heres The Rest

Anyways, you can see the stain i am going to be using, and dont be alarmed, that is my bed spread, it is not my carpet or anything, LOL

Feedback please??

Thanks

Curtis

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Got ahold of LGM finally, since he just got back from NAMM (which i forgot he was at too) He told me that it should be 25.5 scale length, so i am going to mesure all the frets on my washburn and then compare,

One quick thing, it is set up for a lock nut, i would like to add a lock nut, but just from playing a few ibanezs with them, i seem to get my hand caught on them (well, cut, scraped, whatever) and i dont wanna bleed all over my guitar yea know, lol

Pics in a few minutes, batteries are on the charger, and it dont take long to get a charge to upload pics to my computer

Curtis

Edit, heres the pics, well, links, lol

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/cur...ar/nutarea2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v314/cur...tar/nutarea.jpg

Curtis

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OK, I searched the forums, and checked the main site for tutorials, but i found nothing on bridge angle!! I a using a TOM, and it will be recessed (for lower action) But i cannot seem to find out how to angle it, can anyone either tell me, or point me to the correct way?? I really dont want to screw this guitar up and if i am just guesstimating on the bridge angle, then its not good enough

Thanks!!!!

Curtis

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because i am stupid, lol no, somehow my hand just gets up there when i am playing near the nut, its dumb, but i am still going to add a locking nut

Maiden, i need the bridge angle, not neck angle, like, how to angle the bridge.

Thanks, i will keep searching

Curtis

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I'll let this go now but I'm still amazed at this. At first I thought maybe it's because you began playing guitars that didn't have them and switching to using a locking nut was just hard to do. Then I remembered that's exactly what I did but never had these problems.

Oh well.

So, just curious, why do you want to use one given that you have this issue and you aren't using a trem? Why not use locking tuners?

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because i have a set of GOTOH mini tuners, and i cant take them back in, since they are 3x3 i can switch put them on a guitar and buy locking tuners (my other electric is 6 inline)

Plus, the fingerboard is set up for a locking nut, and it will be just easier (since i am still new at this) to add a locking nut and be done with it

Curtis

Edit, your right Dave, the only guitar i have played with a locking nut on it was my friends, and i have been used to a regular nut (on my Washburn) so then we understand each other now?

Curtis

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Well, i am offline for pretty much the rest of the day now, i turned the heat on in the shop, I am going to sand the body down to 320, then afterwork, use my boss's shop, and get him to help me set up some jigs for the neck pocket, pickups and control cavity, while we are doing that, my neck laminate will be drying, and tommorow i will be doing the scarf joint.

For the scarf joint, I will be using a walnut headstock (hopefully we have some scraps left over at work) and if not, then it will be either cherry or maple

Curtis

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well, I am back, i called my boss, its a ok to work on it tonight, and he said that if i bring up my neck laminations, i can laminate them together before work, so it will be dry by the time i get there (he uses a fast drying glue, but it still is strong) and then we can scarf joint it tonight as well

One more thing, for the monkey grip, does it have to be routed?? or can i just use a dremel and work away at it that way (i am talking bout where your fingers go on the back side of the body)

And, i made a little mistake sanding, i started with 150 (its been sanded to 120 or something before) and went over it front and back, then went to 220, went over front and back, and when i got to 320, i started the back first, and noticed the knot i had filled is no unfilled, grrrrrrrrr, looks like i am going to have to re fill it tonight at the shop.

Pics later tonight of the scarf joint if i bring it home, if not, then i will probaly have pics of starting the routing

Curtis

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OK, i re marked my neck pocket, and extended the lines to slightly past the bridge, the only problem i am having is, I marked where 25.5 is on the body, but how does the bridge (tune o matic) sit on it?? I want to recess the bridge slightly for a lower action, and i need to know the placement to I can do the bridge pickup

Thanks, I will check this shortly after 5 oclock tonight when i get home from work, then i am off to the shp again at around 7 or 7:30

Thanks,

Curtis

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first of all, i dont think you need a perpendicular bridge angle if youre not having a neck angle, if thats what you mean by bridge angle. if you have a neck angle then the bridge angle should be perpendicular, or 90 degrees, to the flat plane of youre neck angle. i dont know if it matters though since you have a flattopped body, but im in no way an expert.

second of all, you will need to angle your bridge as it sits on top of the plane of the body top. i cant think of the angle off the top of my head, but the bass side of the bridge will appear to have a longer scale length than the treble side, but in reality it will intonate properly because the saddles and heights will lock into the scale length. im gonna leave that open to whoever the next pro is who reads this, so daveq i hope you read this.

third of all, locking nuts are to lock in the tuning on knife edge tremelos so nosedive after nosedive you dont have to worry about the tuning slipping in between the resetting of the knife edges and the tuners and the binding at the nut. i have no idea what youre trying to accomplish by putting it on a tom equipped guitar, nor do i know what pros or cons come with that, so go for it if you want one.

fourth of all, beautiful work so far, keep the pics coming. especially if you do infact do a swirl.

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nah, i have decided to stain it, possible mahogany stain, or cherry, not sure yet

I would like to do a swirl, but i cant seem to locate Borax thats in my area, so if i dont have it, i cant do it, unless there is some other kind of chemicle i can put in that does the same job

Thanks for the comments, but i am still not sure what you mean on the bridge angle, if i have a perpindicular neck pocket (no angle) then i need a bridge angle?? but if i have an angle neck pocket, i need a straight bridge??

Thanks

Curtis

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if you have no neck angle then the bridge wont have an angle, it can stand straight up off the body at 90 degrees. it WILL, however, need an angle to intonate correctly, but this is only a placement angle, a different angle then i referred to in the first sentence. look at some tune o matic equipped guitars and you will see the angle that you need. the tailpiece and the tune o matic wont be parallel. please somebody back me up with a better explaination, as i am bad at explaining things.

and also if you have no neck angle you have to either raise the neck or recess the bridge to compensate for the extremely high action that you would have using a tom on a fender type guitar setup.

Edited by Meegs666
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