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Posted

ok i plan to make a lp style body out of mahogony here in a while but first i am going to have every single bit of info out there (this would be my first) and considering im 15.. ok a mahogony body im gona style it after one of gibsons lp's and just wondering how much it will weigh and put it in a cost range... i know this all sounds really stupid but oh well

Posted

Welcome to the forum :D

The weight can very from body blank to body blank so that part is going to be hard to figure out.

Materials wise you need to get together a shopping list of parts from pickups to pot's and switches, bridge to tuners then see who has what in terms of price. There really isn't a magical number, some may say oh yes you can build it for XXX dollars but thats just ball parking.

For the hardware you may want to concider actually buying a cheap LP copy guitar, that way you have everything you need including a template to make your body from.

Posted

acualy i didnt mean with the pickups and such i already know what im doin for the bridge and tail pice... im just not sure on how much mohagony costs cause i kinda doubt that the prices at stewmac :D

Posted

definitly shop localy, that way the wood has already adapted to the envirnment, and you also want to go through the pile of wood yourself and select a nice peice, ( no warps, twists, bends, chunk's missing, wrotted, or knots) around here mahogany goes for about 7$ a foot or something... and you need about 4ft (2x7) if your' going to cut it in half and have a 2 peice body..

Posted

I've used it to build an SG, it sounds great but is incredibly heavy. If you plan on using it for a LP type guitar you will need to chamber it or risk a couple of herniated disks trying to lift it!

My SG is almost an 1/8 thinner than a stock SG, and has some chambering in the treble bout, but still clocks in around 9 lbs.

m2721931-7304.jpg

Posted

WOW! That looks really sweet, is it an extremely hard wood? 'Cause I expect an awesome sustain then. Some body building trainings, and you can hold it even for an hour... :D

Posted

Thanks guys, this was guitar #1 and has quite a few rough edges on it. Regardless it plays very nicely and sounds great.

The body is the same length as usual, but appears longer because I used a SG junior style wraparound bridge - so there is no stop tail to fill up the space behind the bridge.

The colour is 100% natural - the only finish I applied to the guitar was colron Danish oil. The colour is a feature of padauk, which turns a very vivid red when it is machined or sanded. The colour has toned down a bit, taking on a browner hue in the , but has retained the lovely ribbon figuring.

FYI the padauk is quite troublesome to work - I swore I would never use it again after building this, but it is so pretty that I'm sure I'll break my promise! It is very resistant to planing and other bladed tools, though it can be scraped and sanded easily enough. It is also a mild nasal irritant, so a dust mask is recommended (even more so than usual) when working with it.

Posted

the body looks a tad longer cause of the 24 frets too, heace you had to push the bridge toward the neck a tad aswell.. and i agree with the above, when working with most exotic hard woods you should really be wearing a respirator mask with replacable filters and an out valve. i think it's bubinga that is actually poisonous

Posted

i believe you are thinking of wenge not bubinga.but any kind of sawdust is an irritant. i always wear a bandana over my nose and mouth and i shower as soon as i am done.last time i worked without a bandana was on my v and the alder and walnut made me sick as a dog for about 3 days.

Posted

The really allergic wood you guys are thinking of is probably cocobolo - I've heard of people breaking out in hives all over because of exposure to the dust.

Padauk is not that bad, but it will give you a nasty itchy sensation in you nose, and make you sneezy and sore. As Wes said, any sawdust will irritate your nose, but certain varieties are particularly aggresive, padauk being one. I try not to do any routing or sanding of it without an airfed mask.

Derek - the neck and bridge in relation to the body are unchanged - I just made the fingerboard a little longer.

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