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Copying a body shape


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I know this subject was raised once before...

I just finished a KILLER guitar body (I will post soon!)

I want to create a routing template on Medium Density Fiberboard (or plexiglass) so I can duplicate it

Is there a way to use a bearing router bit to follow the body shape & route the template out on the Medium Density Fiberboard?

Also, will I be able to use a bearing bit on Plexiglass?

I know there is the risk of scratching the finish on the original, but I think it would be MUCH more accurate that tracing the body on the Fiberboard, Cutting with a jigsaw, sanding and then using that template.

Can anyone help?

Dave K

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:D on a finished body?

Maybe (just speculating here) if you wrapped around it with a layer or two of tape but even that could end up getting burnt into the finish. The finishing trim bit (one with bearing on end) works well but every time I have used one I ended up having to smooth out a minor groove in area's around the outside where it touched to long or hard.

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the flush trim bit with the bearing at the end is going to be the most accurate way to copy the guitar, but like brian said you're sure to leave a line on the edge of the guitar where the bearing was pressing against the side of the guitar, that's why i always make my templates before i start painting just in case it turns out good and i want to make another one just like it, and yes, plexiglass is great for templates cause the see thru thing makes it easy to line everything up if you need to work with a small peice of wood.... or see the center line.... or what have you, the only thing i would say bad about it is that it's not to thick, so your first pass for cutting out the body with the template router bit is going to have to be pretty deep unless you have a really short cutting depth template bit..... i would recommend 1/2 inch plywood for the cheapest, yet best results, but that's just me

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the one i have has a 3/8 cutting diameter, and it's total length is 1 inch (cutting length + bearing), but i often i wish i had a longer one so i would recomend 1 and 1/4 or 1 and 1/2 bit length bit, brand doesn't really matter, price is pretty much you're main concern, one thing i have learned to look out for though, is make sure the cutter is as close to the bearing as bossible, if there's a gap it's going ot leave wood that will press against the shank and cause problems.... anyone know what i'm talkin about ?

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Brian:

It looks like the one you recomend it for a router table (the bearing is on the botom)

I am using a hand-held plunge router

The good news is that it will accept a 1/2 inch bit (as well as 1/4 inch)

With that in mind, what would you recommend?

Thanks

Dave

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1/2, more surface area on the shank to grip and power the bit, plus the 2" length's only come in 1/2 inch shanks cause they need more torque

woopse, didn't mean to reply for you there brian lol, just really bored tonight :D

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i use top and bottom mounted bearings also.

sometimes i use my shaper table and run the bodies on that. but its a little more dangerous but its a little quicker.

if i were you i'd just trace the body on to the template. if you screw up the finish your gonna be really pissed off!

and is it worth doing that? i dont think so. besides if you trace it correctly you should have an exact duplicate anyway. trust me its not worth srewin up the finish! just trace it! you will be glad you did. i could garanty you will scratch the finish.

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I'm 100% with Rye here - trace it, then cut and sand to the line. You can be plenty accurate with a well set up jigsaw and some carefull sanding, and even if you do end up taking away an extra .01 somewhere, you'll never notice it.

Routers and template follower bits etc are great, but they are not the answer to everything - I was very over reliant on mine when I first got it, but it's no substitute for learning to do things the slow, correct way.

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