RGGR Posted June 8, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 8, 2005 (edited) Hey RGGR do you have any more info on this guy http://dubaldomusic.com/Custom No not really. Not even sure where I saw it originally. Contact info is there though. http://dubaldomusic.com/Contact.htm I've recently started playing 7 string guitars and I absolutely love them. I've got an Ibanez RG2027XVV which is just such a versatile guitar and I've just bought an Ibanez LACS Dino Cazares which is an absolute beast of a guitar. That RG2027....does that have 27" scale length too. Have been bit in limbo about going 27" for a while. Hear some great, and some not so great things about it. Guess I have to figure it out for my self. Will improve my finger spread I guess. If I complete my search for RG7620 donor guitar....I should have all the parts to make this one a killer. Only have to add some amateur-guitarbuilding-skills. Ahum!!! Edited June 30, 2005 by RGGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitman32 Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 Well RGGR, when I played my 27" build when test fitting all the parts, she sounded great - but that was with no pickups of course Ive had the damn thing lying around for a month waiting for finish as I have been working out of town. Seriously though, the acoustic tone of the thing was great, and the harmonics were nice too. I would say go for the 27" scale length though, in my humble opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted June 9, 2005 Report Share Posted June 9, 2005 Got neckblank planed today. What would be "best" way to make this neck-body transition? Dremel with small sanding drum??? As I have these quilted maple bookmatched pieces standing in my home office........they give off this fruity smell.......pregnating the place.....puts a smile on face. ← You'll have a hard time doing that with a sanding drum because you can never quite get the angles right. I'm in process on a neck-through presently too, and I got it most of the way with sanding drums and I think I'm going to start in on it with chisels in the next few days - it's the only way I can think of to get a good scoop out like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted June 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2005 (edited) ....I think I'm going to start in on it with chisels in the next few days - it's the only way I can think of to get a good scoop out like that. Chisels hey? .... Why does that word scare me!! Yesterday my neck blank had a date with bandsaw. They got along really nicely. Also discovered the advantages of this 3M Fre-Cut sandpaper. Discovered it at local hardware store.......was bit more $$ then stuff I normally use......but no comparison. This stuff ready did the business. In process of sanding smooth the quilted maple on the headstock. This quilted maple is really interesting wood. Wet it up and amazing figure comes up. Creations of nature keep me in awe. Edited June 10, 2005 by RGGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
!!METAL MATT!! Posted June 10, 2005 Report Share Posted June 10, 2005 Hey Man That looks good what are you going tou use to flaten out the headstock on the top? Long enough headstock !!METAL MATT!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted June 10, 2005 Report Share Posted June 10, 2005 Amen on the 3M gold - it is the b0770x! If you can get it in your home country, do it now. I wouldn't use anything else if I could buy it in the UK. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted June 10, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 10, 2005 I didn't use the Gold stuff......but Maroon colored "Sandblaster", it was already big improvement over stuff I normally use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted June 12, 2005 Report Share Posted June 12, 2005 ....I think I'm going to start in on it with chisels in the next few days - it's the only way I can think of to get a good scoop out like that. Chisels hey? .... Why does that word scare me!! ← Well, I finished my neck heel up, got a nice smooth AANJ looking thing going without that funny ledge around the edge. I tried using a little 1/2" sanding drum with a dremel, and couldn't get it to work well. The chisels did a GREAT job and left a much more even surface that needed a lot less leveling and sanding. Chisels aren't scary . I was really surprised at how much control I had, you just have to be careful to go the right direction so you don't get under the grain and lift up big chips. I don't know if it's the best thing with what you want to do, but I wasn't happy with how the sanding drums were working. Anyway, let us know how it goes - it looks great so far! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted June 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2005 I have some some scrap left from neck blank......I will do some chisel practise on this. Need to get feel for these kinda tools in combo with the wood, before I'm gonna use'm on the real thing. Also have to see how quilted maple holds up to router bit. (will use spanking new one off course....) With going the staining route....there is very little margin for error. No bondo-ing-rescue-jobs on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewman Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 If you do end up with chisels, just make sure you get 'em really, really sharp. I actually did a bit more today with the chisels and cut out the hole for the TOM to sit in (have a 0-angle neck)... I think it came out better than it would have with a router. I still did the pup cavities with the router though . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gemleggat Posted June 19, 2005 Report Share Posted June 19, 2005 Anyfuther forward RGGR? We are all waiting, oh and dont use a dremel to do the neck/body joint it is to uncontrolable. I would use a cork sanding block shaped for the job. Keep up the good work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted June 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2005 Just cut the limba wings out with jig-saw. Stayed within comfortable 2-3mm from final line, and with Robosander will bring wings to final shape. Small holes in wings are to screw template on top, so template can work as guide for robosander. After bringing wings to final size, I will glue on quilted maple pieces and use finished body wings as guide. Going Robosander route on this one, as there is no margin for error when going for stain........no Bondo on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted June 30, 2005 Report Share Posted June 30, 2005 Hi its looking great. Just a quick question though, What is the length of the neck blank from the beginning of the headstock angle to the bottom of the body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted June 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2005 (edited) Just a quick question though, What is the length of the neck blank from the beginning of the headstock angle to the bottom of the body. Edited June 30, 2005 by RGGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gemleggat Posted June 30, 2005 Report Share Posted June 30, 2005 Nice one RGGR, could you tell me how deep the neck blank is? what size were the laminates to start with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted June 30, 2005 Author Report Share Posted June 30, 2005 (edited) Nice one RGGR, could you tell me how deep the neck blank is? what size were the laminates to start with? Edited June 30, 2005 by RGGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gemleggat Posted June 30, 2005 Report Share Posted June 30, 2005 Im using wenge in my first guitar. It a neck thru too. here its it, well not yet! http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...37&hl=gemleggat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egdeltar Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 So how is it coming??? Im building an RG/JEM right now also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted July 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 (edited) Planed quilted maple for headstock, sanded down quilted maple for body. Next job is Drak's planing method for the quilted top pieces. Waiting for Robosander to arrive from StewMac. Planned procedure will be: 1. Screw template to Limba wings. Sand Limba wings with Robo sander. 2. Sand arm rest curve in top Limba wing. 3. Glue on quilted maple top on both wings. 4. With wings as guide, sand quilted maple top pieces to shape. 4. Glue completed wings to neck. Wanting to order Cocobolo 27" pre-slotted fretboard from Lmii.com, but they are not doing 27" preslotted fretboards yet. By time I need fretboard they might. For now wainting for StewMac order to arrive as JS-7 needs completing first. And then this baby screams to be build. I might honor her call. Edited July 11, 2005 by RGGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted July 11, 2005 Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 Planed quilted maple for headstock, sanded down quilted maple for body. Next job is Drak's planing method for the quilted top pieces. Howdy, I've been following this thread in hopes you show more wenge trees . .drool . . . Seriously, can you point me to Draks planing method? I'm curious. I tried searching to no avail. I realize you are in Holland, but do you or anyone else know of a really good source for 8/4 quarter sawn wenge? I saw some on sleazebay a long time ago and didnt get it. Now I am kicking myself. Also, In reference to the wood toxicity . . .I'm surprized at you guys. I would think you would be the most knowledgable in this area. Exotics usually have some toxicity when it comes to skin exposure, etc . . .but some domestics (US) aere actually far WORSE than most woods! If I remember correctly maple and oak are some of the worst! But as someone mentioned . . .the fine dust from ANY wood is what kills you. Do yourself a favor and get a really high quality cyclone collector. You don't want to only worry about capturing the dust you CAN see . . it's the stuff you CAN'T see . . . Next time you leave the shop, shut off the lights and then shine a flashlight in there. Tell me what you see in that beam and think about it. KOMODO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted July 11, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2005 (edited) Seriously, can you point me to Draks planing method? I'm curious. I tried searching to no avail. It's in the Mr. Purple heart thread, first post. For my major woodwork (read: planing, circle saw, etc.) I go to local general contractors warehouse where they have all the nice toys. They cut tons of wood there everyday.....but when cutting my 5mm thick sheet of Wenge into two pieces (used in neck laminate) all the guys in the shop looked up, cause there was sound coming from the circle saw they hadn't heard before. Not to leave you with the image....but kinda sounded like your local neighborhood cat being cut in two. Not that I know how this sounds....... Edited August 23, 2005 by RGGR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CudBucket Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 Drak's method is actually for "jointing", not planing. For the most part, edges are jointed and surfaces are planed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
komodo Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 Drak's method is actually for "jointing", not planing. For the most part, edges are jointed and surfaces are planed. ← RIGHT. Thus my confusion . . i saw the jointing/sanding method. Another way that some people don't think about (this is a jointing method) . . . If you take two halves of a bookmatch and clamp them down, with the glue edge about 1/8" apart . . .then run a router right up the middle of that, you will get a perfect match of edges. They may not be exactly straight, but the edges will mate perfectly. This is a good technique if you want some kind of crazy wavy edge but want them to mate perfectly. Of course you can also use a straight edge and then it will be straight and they will mate perfectly. KOMODO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CudBucket Posted July 12, 2005 Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 komodo, a super easy and fool proof way of jointing the edges of top woods is to clamp the pieces face to face in a work-mate or bench type clamp. Of course the edges to be jointed are aligned in the clamp, but make sure the pieces are face to face. Then, you just use a handplane to joint the edge. Having the pieces FTF, ensures that even if your edge is not perfectly perpendicular to the surface, the angles in each edge will offset eachother perfectly (because they were FTF) and your top will joint create a flat surface every time. BTW, back to back will work also. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted July 12, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 12, 2005 I'm glad we got that all squared away. I tend to use the terms in the wrong context sometimes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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