demon Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 its not what you think lol. ive got an EKO ranger that sin very bad nick an im plannin on restorin it. ive read that sanding is not a good technique for acoustics due to the thinness of the wood. the old finish is VERY thick though, and strippers that ive tried have barely blistered it. any reccomendations on something that i can easily get in scotland? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shamrock Posted June 13, 2005 Report Share Posted June 13, 2005 Don't know if it's available in Scotland but I use a product called Citri-Strip. It's available at Home Depot in the States. It is citrus based and doesn't have any noxious fumes and is pretty gentle on the wood. Just my opinion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassman Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 "Can Anyone Recommend A Good Stripper" How about Tricksy down at the Paper Moon club... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southpa Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 An EKO. eh? I stripped and refinished an old EKO archtop a few years ago and your guitar very likely has a similar finish that mine had. It was a heavy checked varnish over an ugly mustard yellow to dark brown burst. I used an aerosol stripper called "circa 1850", used for furniture mostly. It took a couple of spraying/scraping sessions to get down to bare wood. And then sanding with 80 to 320 grit to get the wood into refinishing stage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 "Can Anyone Recommend A Good Stripper" How about Tricksy down at the Paper Moon club... ← "I knew a hooker once named Minnie Mazola." - Murphy Dunne, The Blues Brothers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted June 14, 2005 Report Share Posted June 14, 2005 (edited) AR-322 Aircraft Klean-strip Remover. Spray cans and kicks it some stripping butt. It is sold all over the world to remove decals and rivet dimple-cracks before painting airplanes. Made by W.M.Barr & Co. of Memphis, TN. Washes off with water. Do NOT get this crap on your skin or in your lungs/eyes. Try the local airport! READ THE DAMN INSTRUCTIONS!!! I just found the same stuff at the local NAPA auto store! Who'd a thunk? Edited June 15, 2005 by thedoctor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank falbo Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 ...that sin very bad... ← Oooooh, your typing error yields some very interesting, very Freudian connections to this thread's title. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thedoctor Posted June 15, 2005 Report Share Posted June 15, 2005 Go get a life, Frank Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demian Posted July 21, 2005 Report Share Posted July 21, 2005 (edited) Try here LINK DELETED That is NOT appropriate for this forum. Read the rules while you're on vacation. Edited July 21, 2005 by bluespresence Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Heat Gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted July 26, 2005 Report Share Posted July 26, 2005 Just remember to watch that you don't burn the wood w/ the heat gun. Leave it in one spot to long and it definitely will. I've always used Strip-X. You can get it at pretty much any hardware store(ace, home depot, lowes, etc.). Yet another chemical you wouldn't want on yourself. I stripped my 300zx with it when I was 16 and I got a patch of it on my arm. I didn't notice it until about half an hour later, but ooo did I notice it. That thing hurt like the dickens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
i-j-c Posted July 28, 2005 Report Share Posted July 28, 2005 @Demon... I've not long ago stripped back an acoustic that had a nasty finish on it...curly maple top and mahogany back/sides. I used NitroMors which you should be able to get in Scotland (I'm in Newcastle btw).. It's a gel like substance..brush on and after about 5 mins you'll see it start to blister - do not touch it whilst it is working wait another 5 minutes and ..start scraping. Work in manageable areas. You don't need much of the stuff and you use a paint brush to apply. 3 coats of the stuff stripped it back to wood. It will melt plastic, so if you have plastic binding...be careful. It is cleaned up on wood with White Spirit - don't use water. It will not damage wood. But prolonged contact with wood is not recommended - that is why I say don't use water as this will dilute the Mors and allow it to bleed into the wood...use white spirit instead. Also...safety wise: 1. Wear marigolds or something on your hands. Remove splashes from skin immediately (it'll burn otherwise). Wear goggles. 2. Use in well ventilated area and away from kids/animals 3. Dispose of residue and any cloths you use properly. It's very good stuff and goes a long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted August 5, 2005 Report Share Posted August 5, 2005 What about acetone? I stripped an archtop here (which had been painted with housepaint though) using that, came out really well. Helps to wear a respirator though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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