Mickguard Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Telecasters are great because you can do what ever you want to them--as long as they have that bridge and that control plate, they'll always look like telecasters. Mine was too heavy, so I decided to put it on a diet. Originally I'd thought of doing a thinline Bocaster, then decided one Bocaster was enough for any man. And then I decided that I'm not good enough yet to pull off a thinline anyway. And meanwhile, I've started playing a strat, and I really appreciate the belly contour...and I started wondering, how come Leo never put a contour on the tele? As long as it's just on the back, it'll still keep that classic telecaster look. I'd also ordered one of BigD varitones...and it just seemed obvious that should be on the carvecaster too--I'm hoping it'll help mellow out that bridge pickup a little bit. First I sanded off the original finish and was pleased to discover some really nice looking wood under there. It's supposed to be alder...the only weird part is the 'pinto' look on the sides --but I kind of like that and will leave that more or less as is. Next I carved the back and routed for the varitone (going extra wide on the wire channel just to shave off a couple more grams. (click on thumbnails for larger images)(the darker strip around the carve was just a test with the sealer to see what happens to the grain, that will be sanded off again) Next step is to sand it-- I plan on keeping the original sealer on the front, and just adding more sealer at the carve. After that, I'm going to do a couple of coats of transparent red tinted lacquer (rattle can), followed by a few coats of normal clear. But that has to wait until the neck comes (bought a Fender neck for it), and I'm certain it fits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TenderSurrender Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Nice clean work you have done there Idch... Question though In the first picture there is a dark line on the back of your guitar... looks like its wet or something... why/what is it? ~~ Slain Angel ~~ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted July 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 In the first picture there is a dark line on the back of your guitar... looks like its wet or something... why/what is it? ← Read the post again, it's in there. Just a test with sealer to see what it'll look like. I don't want to sand through the sealer that's already on the guitar, but I wanted to make sure that when I put the finish on, the grain will show through...and I'm hoping it'll get a little deeper. I'm still not completely certain about going with red on this though -- I think brown will look a lot better. But I'm using rattle cans, and they don't make transparent brown... How about this: can I mix up some tint into the sealer? I'm just trying to deepen the existing color, really, not changing it. Wish Maiden were here, he was my finishing guru... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thoughtless 7 Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Looking good idch. I am actually liking the idea you've got here with the belly contour. I'm not a big fan of strats but i love Teles especially semi-hollow ones in white... Can't wait for you to finish this beauty. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 I also like the idea of a belly carve on a Tele. Here is one I did a while back. The body is alder. It's only a mild carve but matches my belly so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted July 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 I also like the idea of a belly carve on a Tele. Here is one I did a while back. The body is alder. It's only a mild carve but matches my belly so far. ← Of course, I'm planning ahead for the future...honey, where's that sixpack? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay5 Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Here's one I did. Still got to finish sanding, look at all those nicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Coming along well. What's that cavity in the lower horn for? And idch, are you in France, or from France...or is that just a joke? It's been buggin the hell out of me for like a month. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VanKirk Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 I'm gonna make mine a bit deeper at the upper bout area and then round it off similar to how johnsilver's is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted July 23, 2005 Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Looks like this belly contour thread was a good way to flush out all those Tele's under construction. Looking good boys. What's are your finishing concepts for these Tele's? I am going for a black opaque finish with a maple neck and fretboard. Black hardware, black dot inlays, etc. I am thinking of a Tele thinline style pickguard white/black/white. Since we are talking about belly carves, here's mine with black opaque nitro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted July 23, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 23, 2005 Coming along well. What's that cavity in the lower horn for? And idch, are you in France, or from France...or is that just a joke? It's been buggin the hell out of me for like a month. ← I'm American living the good life in the French countryside! The cavity is for the varitone switch I'm putting in there--really curious to see what it'll sound like with the tele. I was tempted to install it on the control plate, but then I saw the mod on BigD's site (it's his switch) and I liked it. I'd like a 'deepened' natural finish --the alder on this guitar is already a nice rich reddish color, I'd like to accentuate that a bit. For the pickguard, I'm toying with various metal guard ideas....I already have a piece of copper shielding cut to shape (courtesy of a 3 am ebay cruising session), but I've got some old metal shelves around here, I'm going to play with corroding/rusting metal effects. Nice to see all the other tele mods...they're like cockroaches, aren't they? John- that's looks real comfortable...you could even use it as a pillow! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 Whereabouts in France? Hopefully, near wine country (where isn't in France) although the Med coast would be nice. ← Naw, we're closer to La Rochelle...I like to be near the Atlantic...you can take da boy outta Jersey, but you can't take the jersey outta da boy. Strange how you see all kinds of tele mods, but you rarely see anyone modding a strat or an LP (well, my next guitar will be a modified LP Jr....) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 I think most of the guys on this forum are scared to make a carved top. I eat carved tops for breakfast(so to speak). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted July 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 I think most of the guys on this forum are scared to make a carved top. I eat carved tops for breakfast(so to speak). ← Well there was some discussion about carving a tele top --and I agree with the opinion that a carve top telecaster is no longer a telecaster --you can do what you like to the back, but for my money you have to have four things for it to remain a telecaster: 1. That single-coil bridge 2. That control plate 3. That flat top (doesn't have to be tele shape, but it has to have flat face) 4. That headstock --why mess with perfection? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted July 24, 2005 Report Share Posted July 24, 2005 ... but for my money you have to have four things for it to remain a telecaster: 1. That single-coil bridge 2. That control plate 3. That flat top (doesn't have to be tele shape, but it has to have flat face) 4. That headstock --why mess with perfection? ← Oops. My project only gets about 1 1/2 points out of the 4 above. I am making it with 2 HBs and a 72 Tele Thinline pickguard that pretty much eliminates points 1 & 2 above. I definitely have a flat top and the headstock is similar but not identical to a Tele. I'll refer to it as a Tele-style guitar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Can't believe how long it took to put this thing together...I started yesterday at about noon, wet sanding and polishing. I finally finished (with breaks of course) getting it strung up at 1 am... Here are a few clickable thumbnails: Pretty much every piece of this guitar was switched out or modified: --The neck is a Fender MIM replacement neck --The body was stripped, carved and refinished (and routed for a varitone switch under pickguard) --The pickguard is made of Wenge (bought from Woodguarden Pickguards off ebay)--really pretty! (I abandoned my efforts to make a leather pickguard, couldn't find thick enough leather...maybe another project). Also the pickguard is shielded with copper --The electronics are all Fender --including pots, jack and control plate --Bridge was adapted for the bigsby clone-- I cut grooves in the back plate for that --(the strings are housed in tubes in order to prevent any rubbing against the metal--I'll eventually cut tubes exactly the same size so they'll look neater) --Tuners are Grover locking, saddles and string trees are Graph Tech, and it has Schaller straplocks Issues: Well, the finish isn't perfect. I'd stripped the original (ugly) paint off and found this nice looking wood. It wasn't perfect though--there's a calico effect. I managed to hide some but not all of it. And then something went wrong while I was polishing it, it came out rather blotchy (you can only see that when the light hits in a certain way). Since I plan to beat the hell out of this guitar, that's no big deal-- I like a wrecked-looking guitar. The main issue right now is the problem with string spacing. Since the bridge and neck (and nut) weren't designed for each other, there's a problem --the low E is way too far into the neck, while the high E just barely stays over the neck all the way across. But I'm pretty sure this is an issue with the nut more than anything else--because the nut looks like it was cut wrong--the low E is definitely too far over. As a temporary measure, I reset the neck, shifting it toward the treble side by half a millimeter or so (I prefer it snug against the bass side of the pocket though). I also angled the bridge plate a bit --you can see that in the photo below. As it is, the guitar is playable, but I have to be careful how I hit the high E --otherwise it slips off the frets. I plan on replacing the nut --I'm waiting for the neck to settle down. I have a graph tech nut here that should work. And I'll probably try to scout up a Fender MIM (three-barrel) bridge, because I'm sure that's part of the equation. First I'll try moving the existing bridge over a millimeter or so (I wanted to play the guitar a bit first!) Since the strings are mounted on the bridge itself, I'll be able to do that without taking the strings off, that way I can line it up the way it needs to be. Although it's possible I'll have to move the Bigsby too. Here are a couple of thumbnails of the problem point--maybe an experienced eye can see better what's going wrong? Oh but the sound....it's excellent...really growls on the bridge pickup. In fact, it's so good, I ditched my tri-AC and just play direct into my Ampeg... Further mods: I planned on putting a varitone into the cavity under the pickguard...then I changed my mind--it makes more sense to install that on my neck project, which will be a single-pickup design. Instead, I'm thinking of moving the switch from the control plate to that cavity. And since I don't use (like) the neck pickup too much, I'm seriously tempted to put a P90 there instead... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald k wilson Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 idch, I love your taste. I've been sitting on this project for a little while now but I couldn't resist this thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald k wilson Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Looked closely at the thumbnail of the neck/bridge. It's hard to tell but it looks like the neck angle side to side is a little off. take a long straight edge and check the alignment of each side of the neck to where it comes over the bridge. It could just be the angle of the picture but I have had these relationships change on screw in necks just by getting a little knock on the headstock. Hope this helps. dkw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Looked closely at the thumbnail of the neck/bridge. It's hard to tell but it looks like the neck angle side to side is a little off. ← Yep, you're right...That's why I prefer to have it snug up against the bass side. But still that's not the real problem --if anything, that shift would have helped get the high e back onto the fretboard. Meanwhile, I found another problem (see, I received the neck the day before I left on vacation, didn't have time to check out all the potential issues--but putting the guitar together has helped me find a lot of them!) Anyway, another problem is that this neck is substantially thinner (heel thickness) than the original neck that went with this body--by substantial, I mean a good 5 mm... Right now I'm thinking the best approach will be to glue a block of scrap alder I have here into the neck pocket and route an entirely new pocket for this neck. At the same time I can correct the alignment problems with the bridge and bigsby. I'll still have to change that nut though. At the very least, I'll have to install a fairly thick shim...hmmm...suppose I put a metal shim in there? Gonna post that question elsewhere... Guess I'll be playing my strat for our next few shows! I have to say though, I don't think I'll ever attempt a partscaster again --too many fitting issues involved. In fact, I'm considering picking up a used Fender Tele and doing the carvecaster thing to that--at least that way, I'll have a pretty good chance that all the parts will fit together! Oh yeah, that's a funky looking guitar --wood looks super beat up...I like it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marzocchi705 Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 I'm gonna make mine a bit deeper at the upper bout area and then round it off similar to how johnsilver's is. ← Have you got any pics of that guitar face on, i like the way the cutaway is more of a point than a normal Tele, its way cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Trying to hijack the thread, eh? Anyway, I wanted to post a pic of the nut--so you all could confirm my diagnosis, that it's just really poorly cut: I'd like some confirmation first because I'm pretty certain I'll end up cracking the nut in order to get it out of there. I definitely want to change the nut before I go to the hassle of shifting the bridge and bigsby over. Although I've thought about recessing the bigsby a little--maybe route out a groove say 5 mm down....that'll give me a better string angle onto the barrels...as it is, I get the feeling they're shifting around...So if I'm going to route the top, then moving things around won't be any big deal. Also I've tried using a metal plate (just another neck plate) as a shim: Looks funky...maybe I'll call this the Borgcaster...anyway, it definitely solves the problem with the fretboard height--that's perfect now. As for any change in sound--hard to say...part of me wants to say that there's a bit more high end in there, especially at the higher end of the midrange...but that might just be wishful thinking. Seems to have more sustain than without--but also more quack. Anyway, I'm going to look around for a piece of metal thick enough and large enough to fill the entire pocket, because this way just doesn't look right. In the meantime, I'll try shaping a wood shim too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
marksound Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 I'm sure that nut is not typical of the Mexican Fenders. If it was Mighty Mite, sure. I've replaced the nut on every Mighty Mite neck I have because they all suck. They've all buzzed at the high E first fret, no matter what I did. Replaced the nut, no more buzz. Neck good, nut baaad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
donald k wilson Posted September 2, 2005 Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 Totally agree, lose the nut. Strings are too far to high e and spacing is wrong. Probably so are the slot depths and shoulders. If the kit don't fit...dkw Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted September 2, 2005 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2005 I'm guessing this neck came from when Fender was still selling replacement parts, before they shut that done in favor of the 'licensed' stuff...although it's possible it was once on an actual guitar, though I doubt it. I'll have to ask the seller. The nut's not bad otherwise, no buzzing at any rate. The neck's great, feels really good in the hand --I opted for a Mexican neck because they're supposedly slightly smaller than MIA or MIJ necks, and I like that part. Another thing I forgot to mention --the carve on this thing....really changes the guitar a lot, it's a true pleasure to hold. Sitting down it just snuggles right up against me, standing up it's exactly where I like it to be -- kind of gives me the feeling I'm playing an angled neck guitar like a Gibson. Don't know why Fender never came out with an official carve telecaster... I'll have to hunt around for info on removing Fender nuts, though I'm guessing it's no loss if I crack this one... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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