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New Custom Guitar Completed


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Neato, David. I'm still more of a fan of the other finishes you've done, but of course working with a client will lead you in new and unexpected directions, which is always a cool thing in and of itself.

Too bad the Tusq material didn't appeal to you. A black nut would have been the final detail in a world that has gone black. :D

Greg

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Russ, you may be right! I actually thought of trying out African Blackwood as a neck material with a black stained lacewood top. "I see a gui-tar and I want to paint it black..." No Mick, no! :D:D

Gemleggat, the shellac finish is very thin and fragile. It will not be as abrasion resistant like lacquer even. It should be alcohol resistant once it cures but who knows. A lot of classical guitars are french polished but the rock and roll/jazz crowd is not as easy on their guitars as the classical crowd is. I'll have to get me a bottle and test this out. What you have to go through for the sake of art B)

gun, I do think that the difference between the soft and hard maple does make a difference, especially for the neck. I also think neck wood is a huge factor in the tone. If you went with a harder maple the guitar would have a little more sparkle in the higher end and also have more attack and snap to the notes. Your 1/4" of maple on the top will not be as dominant as the body wood since it is so thin (compared to a carved top). A mahogany body will definitely warm it up and balance the guitar a bit. That is essentially what this guitar of mine is minus the maple top. Let us know how it turns out.

Oh, and these pieces of ebony for the pickup rings and fingerboard were gaboon. I did just get in a few boards of Madagascar ebony. I'll post about it if I have any concerns. So far it seems stable enough. We'll see when I cut some fret slots.

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Thanks for tha reply David. Yeah It should be like yours but with the maple top added. But I think it will be more bright cuz I forgot to tell you it will be 25,5" scale 24 frets :D

Just undecided about the choise of wood, laminate maple-bubinga-maple neck in estearn flamed maple or hard maple? :D

David, do you have a mp3 link for that guitar?

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You asked for it Drak, here's some pics. I have completed a couple other guitars this month and I also have a few cool ones in progress that I'll share with you all.

First off here is a new Dragonfly:

09.jpg

Check out that bearclaw spruce! This is one amazing sounding guitar. I wish I could have kept it. It's cool, I have one in progress that will be mine...I mean a display model :D More pics here.

Another project I have going is an Ibanez style carved top. Check it out here. This is essentially one of my carved top electrics with the Ibanez shape for a player who love the way these look but wants something more than what Ibanez offers. This one will feature some cool matching wood humbucker covers. They will look like large P90s. Pretty cool!

And last but not least I have an interesting small bodies archtop acoustic in the works. It will be much like my Dragonfly design but with a 15.5" lower bout. This one will have a very interesting bridge (more on that later). Check it out here.

On the schedule are another pair of lacewood Dragonflies (like the original), a pair of the Sungazer goldtop guitars, and a couple cool solidbody electrics. I'll be sure post more later this month when the two above guitars are finished.

Enjoy!

~David

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It's just so beautiful, it makes me want to cry. What a fantastic design! I really love the way the neck and body join with that carve. It looks like it would really feel nice right there.

The other pictures in the link are outstanding. Love the grain pattern on the back of the guitar, and I love the headstock. This looks like a 3 to 5,000 dollar instrument!

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1st time I see a non Myka guitar

This one is an anomoly. I almost didn't take the order but I liked the idea and the guy is super cool. The shape will be pretty close to the original but that's where it stops. The pickups covers will be the most interesting part of the design I think. I am still trying to imagine it. I think it will be somewhat odd (conpared to a regular humbucker) but very cool.

I have been very busy lately (a big thanks to all my clients!!!) but I will keep updating my website and I'll try to keep up with my posts here whenever I can.

Thanks for all the great comments. I always appreciate the support.

~David

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Believe me, if I had the money to hop on a plane to NY, put a down payment on one of your creations to support you I would...

Do you mind if I ask a question David..?

When you are cutting out a chamber (ie a full chamber as in the beaut above)...do you first say rough cut with a jigsaw or similar then route round to get it smooth...and do you just support the router in the edge carefully? Now you might do that a much better way as I'm sure you have some superb tools at your disposal..but would that be the best way say to me who only has a jigsaw and router at his disposal at present!?

Cheers,

Ian

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When you are cutting out a chamber (ie a full chamber as in the beaut above)...do you first say rough cut with a jigsaw or similar then route round to get it smooth...and do you just support the router in the edge carefully? Now you might do that a much better way as I'm sure you have some superb tools at your disposal..but would that be the best way say to me who only has a jigsaw and router at his disposal at present!?

You might be quite surprised at how many tools I don't have. Most of the hobbyists here have a better shop than I do. You can do fine with what you have but you will need a good router bit with a bearing guide since we are talking chambers that do not go all the way through. Make the chambers small enough that the router is not in danger of tipping into it. Use the jigsaw to cut out your templates and file the edges smooth. Then run the router along the template to duplicate this in the wood. Like this.

For the larger chabers for a semi-hollow I actually use a router table. I remove most of the material with a forstner bit in the drill press (a 10" bench top drill press). Then I use a template and bearing guided template bit on a router table. Like this. You can't see the bearing bit too well but you get the idea.

~David

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COOL man Nice Looking Jig's!! :D I wish Mine Where That Clean

!!METAL MATT!! :D

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David - as ever, great reply - your patience is a virtue..

...and as ever, it's just as enjoyable checking out your jigs as it is your work...like MM says above - I wish mine were that clean too..

I'm in the process of making two of your jigs right now - the neck pocket jig with some mods (I actually used your jig idea in a makeshift neck pocket jig on the build of my es335 - photo's are in my build thread) and the neck carving jig (including the router mount)..

..I've also been talking through with some model makers today making your duplicarver...

..I hope you do not mind me asking about your jigs...but they are superb..and something everyone can benefit from your knowledge..

Thanks David.

Rgds,

Ian

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..I hope you do not mind me asking about your jigs...but they are superb..and something everyone can benefit from your knowledge..

Never a problem. That's why I posted them here. I'll continue to post revisions as I make them as well. Please do the same if you come up with some improvements. Two minds are better than one (or dozens in the case of this forum).

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Excellent work to all of you,until I found this place I couldn,t believe how many builders were out there.Tons to learn from this place,there seems to be some real talent here.I,m kinda new to building and also navigating around the site .but the tricks and things I,m learning here is awsome,cheers to all from :DMy Webpage?Hope these pics get through.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Myka,

A couple of questions. First, when can we expect more Goldtop pics? Those Sungazer's are awesome!

Second, how does chambered limba sound? I've heard that chambered mahagony with p90's or paf's sounds very muddy. Has that been your analysis as well? How does limba do in this department?

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  • 1 year later...

The finish is actually a shellac. This was to be sure that the finish was ultra thin. I wanted to do a french polish but that was out the budget so I compromised a bit. I formulated a shellac form flakes soaked in alcohol and used a black tint. I then sprayed it with my airbrush (no sense gumming up my lacquer gun). It went on very easily and dried quick. When I had on 5 coats I stopped and let it dry. I then used #0000 steel wool and rubbed it out. To buff I used a soft flannel. It turned out great and feels really good. The wood grain is very visible since it so thin (and I don't use grain filler unless I absolutely have too).

Myka,

A couple of questions about your finish.

What type of tint did you use with the shellac? I am after a solid colour finish, but don't have access to spray gear so shellac would be my preferred finish.

Also, what sort of grain filer would you recommend for under shellac?

Thanks

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