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Making A Template?


Pr3Va1L

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Ok... I'm trying to make a template for humbuckers with plywood. I tought it would be somewhat easy, but it dosen't seem so...

Anyone would have tricks or tips or something?

Also, is a 1/2" router bit alright for pickup routing? I didn't plan on using pickup rings, but I think I won't have a choice...

Anyways, thanks everyone!

Edit: Or should I buy them?? I've seen those on The Bay...

Thanks again :D:DB)

Edited by Pr3Va1L
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hi

well I've made my own using some MDF to start with. Draw the cavity you want, take some *STRAIGHT* scrapwood, and line them up to the drawing you just made. Drill some holes, turn on your router and have a go at it.

However, I use my copyring alot when routing and doing so I can use any routerbit I have without the hassle of bearings. All it takes is to offset the scarpwood by a few MM's. I've made mine to be used with a 6mm (.25") routerbit. If I put an 8 mm in it, it'll make the cavity 1mm bigger so I can use binding in it and keep the same radius...

Hope it makes sense :D

Those ebay templates look like crap. I've made mine in an hour, perfectly straight and clean.

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A 1/2" diameter bit will work fine, thats what I use. You can make your templates just as balzooka said, I have done it that way in the past. In all honesty, its a pain in the ass though. I spent more time lining everything up and messing with little pieces only to have somthing shift ever so slightly. Instead I bought a set of the 3/16" acrylic templates from stewmac and couldnt be happier. They are clear and have a centerline and only cost $5.55 a piece. I only really use them as "master" templates as I find the 3/16" thickness a bit limiting. What I do is attach them to a piece of 1/2" ply and transfer the rout for a working template. Works great and you know the template will be perfect.

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I know that someone will say tht this is not a good idea, but here is how I've made router templates for twenty years.

I use 1/2" baltic birch plywood. This is the multiply stuff that comes in 60"x60" sheets and is made with no voids.

Get an industrial hot glue gun, not a hobby gun.

Rip a piece as wide as your cavity. Rip a couple of 3 or 4 inch wide pieces as long as your guitar body.. Cut some three inch pieces off of the first rip. Glue the pieces that you just made to the two rails. (the second pieces) Leave gaps as big as the holes you want.

As long as you can measure and use a square you wind up with a template that is absolutely spot on with clean staight edges.

So you want to put "ears" on your pickup cavity? Use rails the width of the ears, crosscut them and glue them to a second course of outside rails leaving a space in between them the size you want the cavity to be.

Curved pieces can be cut on the bandsaw and glued in place.

Industrial hot glue guns are more than up to the task of making a template that will hold up to production routing. You can also do the same thing with 1/4" ply and laminate a second solid layer of plywood over it. Then use a pattern bit (bearing over the cutter) to recut out the openings. This gives you an abusable template.

I can make a jig to rout out two humbuckers in about fifteen minutes, and half of that is double checking my measurements and drinking a Dr. Pepper while I make sure I'm figuring stuff right..

I apologize for not having the computer skills to post pictures. If someone can steer me to a tutorial I 'll one up a demo.

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The reason I did it like this is not because I didnt want to order stewmacs template, but this is (for me) the better option. As I said I use the copyring (or templatering as some call it), so I dont have to bother with bearing and minimal routing depth. As a 'bonus' I can do the electonics cavity with a 3mm ledge for the backcover to sit in in only 2 passes with the router, only needing to change the bit once.

When these templates are OK i'll copy them to acrilyc which has to be .25 thick otherwise I cant use the copyring (thats a con).

routing.jpg

This took me about 30 minutes to do.

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I'm not aware of any router that doesn't have a depth of cut adjustment. There are all different ways that different routers adjust depth, but it is usually a rotary knob or a lever or some combo of both. Have a closer look at the router, I bet it becomes apparent pretty quickly what I'm talking about.

Nate Robinson

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How can i make 1/8" or 1/4" passes with that?

You can, but your template will need to be an inch thick, or your first pass will have to be 3/4" deep (with .25" template).

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the copyring or templatering is nothing more than a little 5 mm ring you attach under your routerbase. It sticks out 5 mm at te bottom so you can run it against a template. Since you are using that the bitsize and depth are no issue. you can rout 3mm deep, without a bearing because your 'bearing' is the copyring.

My copyring has a size of 18mm, so if i want a 100 x 100mm cavity, using a 10mm bit, my template is 4mm bigger on all sides. Using the ring you dont need thick templates (mine are all .25) so the maximum cuttingdepth is only shortend by 6mm...

Ill post a pic of the darn thing when I get the time for it, seems my skills in explaining in english arent all that :D

jP

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what if i raised the template a bit? maybe put some (straight) scrap wood under (and make it stick so it dosen't move) would work?

my template is about 2 cm btw... around 3/4"

Yeah, I'm in this camp also. 3/4" MDF templates with a 1" bearing bit. Once the bearing gets to the bottom of the template. Just use the top of the cavity you have already cut as the guide. Works really well and without undue stress on your router.

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