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Posted (edited)

I finally purchased the top wood for my second guitar. I purchased from the ebay seller "buzzaw-international". I thought I got a good deal on a 7/8" thick piece of quilted maple. It isn't wide enough for a strat and is just barley big enough for a les paul, but my guitar is just smaller than a les paul so I thought I would be fine.

Turns out there is a big strip of bark on the back edge of one side.

The auction made no mention of the fact and had no picture of the back. I dont care if there is a knot or something on the back, but this severly impacts the usability of the wood.

Anyway, I am asking for a bit of advice. I feel I got a good deal assuming there was no bark (payed about $120 shipped) and the top looks great, but should I cut some corners and cross my fingers in the hope that it works?

Here is a link to the auction description:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

Here are pictures of the wood (that I took) complete with an outline of my guitar..there are several fairly large pictures, it may take a few seconds to load:

http://students.washington.edu/naf/wood/wood.html

As you can see there is still one or two small pockets on the left edge that would include some of this bad wood. However, I think my binding will cover this up if I put it on the bottom edge of the top. This will be a carve top. I didn't want a 7/8" carve in the first place (0.5-0.75" is what I was shooting for). This also throws the centerline of the guitar about 1/8" off center of the wood's centerline. Do you think this will be noticable? Should I just try to return the wood and buy elsewhere?

I have sent the seller an email noting my dissatisfaction and that I believe the auction description deliberatley left out comments about the back side of the wood.

Any help would be appreciated.

Edited by Sparky
Posted

If you're doing a carved top, flip the board upside down and your problem should be fixed. That way you'll end up carving away the bark areas when you carve the top. Something I'd like to point out, it looks like the inside edges of the top need to be plained before being glued up. They don't look square with one another.

peace,

russ

PS

I'd compain about that wood, but I think it should definitely be usable if you can't get a refund/exchange.

Posted

I've always figured there was something fishy about their auctions. For one, no mention of kiln drying...just "seasoned". I have, out of curiosity, inquiered about moisture content on maybe 3 items, and what they said boiled down to "no idea". Unfortunately they only posted a single top image, and now we know why. Really a bummer.

This sort of thing infuriates me! It's the single reason I don't use Ebay for "guitar wood". One never knows really. :D:D

Anyway, you may be able to use it if you are careful how the top gets carved. Don't go too deep. There should be some darkening colorations around the bark, so when your shaping the top take notice. If you see it don't go deeper. Also, you might be able to get away with using wood bleech to lighten the whole thing before dying it.

-Doug

Posted (edited)

yeah that makes me upset too, i bought my bubinga from a different dealer on ebay and he made no mention of a crack in the wood lucky for me it was in a spot that was gonna be scrapped any ways. but all and all id say that your woods still useable and it does have some nice figure would look nice with a sunburst.

Edited by scottyd
Posted
If you're doing a carved top, flip the board upside down and your problem should be fixed. That way you'll end up carving away the bark areas when you carve the top. Something I'd like to point out, it looks like the inside edges of the top need to be plained before being glued up. They don't look square with one another.

peace,

russ

PS

I'd compain about that wood, but I think it should definitely be usable if you can't get a refund/exchange.

Thought of that already, unfortunatley the back side has some nasty knots and dark streaks. looks much worse than the top. i agree about the inside edges as well, they are pretty rough. I think I would rather take my chances with the side bark than hoping the knots and streaks will sand away.

The strange thing is that I have been watching his auctions for the past few months and I am pretty sure I saw this piece (almost got it but someone used buy it now and beat me) and then a few weeks later its back...wonder why. :D

I just recieved a reply from them in response to my complaint and of course they claim they were not trying to mislead me...fine. Maybe someone just didn't notice the huge strip of bark on the side or forgot to mention it...They are offering 20% off my next purchase...haha, like I will be buying anything from them again. I always wondered why they never had pictures of both sides of their wood, guess I know why.

Hmmmm decisions decisions....

Posted

I'd see if you can get them to exchange it for a clear bookmatched set of the same figure quality, and slightly wider to offset the hassle of shipping it back to them. I hope you didn't leave any feedback yet....

You might mention that you're a member of a 4500-person guitar building forum whose denizens are watching the outcome with anticipation.

Posted

why not use an inch or inch and a half center stripe of contrasting wood such as walnut or purple heart or whatever you're making the back out of. that should put the flaw outside of your body profile and would make a nice looking guitar.

of course trying to get your money back or another cap is the first thing to try but if that doesn't work and you're stuck with it the center stripe is better than trashing it.

Posted

I've seen the 'bark thing' on quilted maple billets/tops before, as quilted maple is flatsawn and the quilted figuring tends not to go that far into the tree.

Posted

Looks like it would have been a $175-$200. set without the live edge. The sad part is it is so close. If you think you can get the carve and not get down into bark from the top, and then bind the edge. It is a real nice looking top, and you paid a very discounted price. If it can be made to work it would be a great deal. If you don't believe you can make it work. As LGM mentioned you should give them a call.

Peace,Rich

Posted

I agree, if it were an inch or two wider it would sell for double the price.

But, given the slim dimensions of the piece already, it is very annoying that they wouldn't have mentioned the fact that the back looks like this, let alone just taken a picture of it...Especially if my hunch is correct, and they did sell this piece a few months ago only to have it returned...but I certainly can't prove that. I have not left feedback yet.

They do seem willing to talk and their response has been very quick so far.

Posted

This is the 1st time that I see this from buzzsaw. I know that Drak have got some nice stuff from him and I think that bigD too. I would definately get him to exchange the piece! Especialy since there is no mention of the bark on the description.

This is why I like Durawoods so much, he post multiple pics of the piece and you get what you see on the auction! The piece got some nice figure but like you mention it has a lot of imperfections too. I wouldn't be surprised if one of those streaks show up on the top once the carve is done.

Posted

Am I missing something, or couldn't you get a better fit out of that piece if you flipped the body over end to end. In other words, take your mock-up of the back with the outline, and put the end strap button where the neck joint is, and the neck joint where the strap button is. Maybe that would make the lower bout extend right into the bad section, I don't know. Even if you left the orientation as is, it should at least get better if you pulled the silouhette down a little bit.

But my vote is for a return and refund/replacement. Even though if it were me I would keep it. I'd plane it a little thinner, or use the binding to cover it after using epoxy filler. You could probably even get away with a filler strip in there, cut from the waste. OOH! I know what I'd do! After I rough cut the body shape (no need to over-bevel the rest of the wood) I would take it to the belt sander, and get an angled bevel right there, removing all the bark. (maybe 35 degrees) Then I'd glue the new piece in at the angle and true it up. Then from the side, after you finish cutting the top, all you'd see was a crescent shaped line, that could easily pass as a grain line if you chose the right filler piece. That's another reason you have to rough cut the top first, to see what grain is revealed in that part.

Man, I could make that whole thing disappear. But with binding, I guess it would dissappear anyway! :D

Posted
I agree, if it were an inch or two wider it would sell for double the price.

But, given the slim dimensions of the piece already, it is very annoying that they wouldn't have mentioned the fact that the back looks like this, let alone just taken a picture of it...Especially if my hunch is correct, and they did sell this piece a few months ago only to have it returned...but I certainly can't prove that. I have not left feedback yet.

They do seem willing to talk and their response has been very quick so far.

Your frustration is understandable. Especially when they show the outline of a body (that usually indicates "this is all good usable wood"). I would try to work it out with them it sounds like they have done good by several other PG members.

Peace,Rich

Posted

Okay, for those of you who have purchased from Buzzsaw, how has the quality been? What about moisture content? Was it low enough so the top doesn't crack, or cause moisture lifting of the finish? Maybe you've taken the pieces and had them kiln dried at your favorite saw mill? I'm still skittish so comments would be great. You see, I'm of the opinion that I would rather pay more for a top I know is flawless right from the start then to have to worry about blemishes to cover up.

-Doug

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