Drak Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 I did this one about 8-9 years ago, this guitar shows my very first airbrush job I ever did. This is my Pie-Plate version. I did several after this and improved it with each one, but this was back before I ever owned a digital camera, I was still using 35mm, and don't have pics of the others, this is the only one of this I still have. I thought the center-thing over (the way you are proposing to do it), and didn't like it, so I opted to go the 'Drak Modified Pie-Plate' design. My Pie-Plate center hits about the 20th fret of the neck. It 'worked' much better for me like this. This was when I had just cut the first version of my 'Drak' design body, this was the second one. I reshaped it a little shortly after this time, refined it a bit. The body shape looks kinda 'raw' here doesn't it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 (edited) It looks like yours is influenced a lot more by the feel of a strat. I say that because of the(well, what appears to be a...) wide waist. As you can see, mine's a bit more along the lines of an LP. Also, it looks like your horns are a lot more "pointy" on the inside area...almost an iceman vibe. Anyhoo...I finished up the full scale plans(I omitted the dimensions for the sake of not cluttering up the image). I have all of the wood for this sitting at home, and the plans right in front of me(...they're coming hot off the printer right this moment). It's killing me that I'll have to wait to get this one started. I go home Saturday, but I'll be busy all weekend with a bbq and a gig . (CLICK TO ENLARGE) The only actual components I've omitted is the switch, the output jack(who's location depends on the outcome of the switch problem) and the tremolo. I'm still torn on where to put it(the switch). I want it on the pick guard, but I'd only do that with a slider. Would anyone happen to know where to find a 3P4T slider switch? Also, does anyone know of a store that sell 250k thumbwheel pots that aren't intended for PCB mounting? If I can get the 3P4T slider, the switch will go on the pick guard and there'll be no rear cavity routes. If I end up using a rotary or toggle switch, I'll most likely discretely put the switch on the treble side of the tremolo and put the input jack on the back of the guitar, rather than the side. I didn't even attempt to make a drawing of the tremolo as I'm nowhere near one. As I mentioned earlier, the one I want doesn't technically exist yet...but soon it will(fingers crossed). The tremolo requires no routing and the whole thing attaches to the guitar with only the two bushing for the TOM bridge. peace, russ Edited October 20, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted October 20, 2005 Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 I was just referring to the positioning of the top pie pieces, I wasn't referring to your body style at all, which I think is fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2005 (edited) I realise that's what you meant; it was just an observation. I can't build guitars that pointy. Although, that finish you've got looks pretty warm. It makes me feel all fuzzy inside.I think the way I have the horns now is different, but not pushing the limit too far. It's almost got a Rickenbacker bass vibe. Edited October 21, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ptt-Guitars Posted October 21, 2005 Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 I love the design, its got originality yet still has a certain level of traditionality to it. The whole shape somehow works really well, it will be sick to see the final product. This is the perfect example of everyone thinking their way is the best. You obviously seem to know what your doing and what works best for you and everyone should keep in mind that their way may work for them and their design, tools, methods etc, but it won't necessarily be that way for everyone else just chill out and offer nuetral advice..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted October 21, 2005 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2005 (edited) I think everyone has offered their advice with a pretty level head. I appreciate the fact that people care enough to offer advice, whether I decide to take it or not is an entirely different matter. It seems the concensus is that some people would alter it slightly, but overall they dig it. I'm very excited about starting this build. I really hope stetsbar is true to their word and comes out with a black OEM version. If that doesn't work out, I've got a few alternatives in mind, but that trem is a real piece of art IMHO. Thanks for the kind words everyone. peace, russ Edited October 21, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 16, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 (edited) Just as an update. This build should be underway within the next week. As I type now, I'm studying for a chemistry exam which I'll be taking in 2 hours. After that, I drive back home for the holidays and finally get to start on it. I've got a pile of lumber waiting for me, and a full size hardcopy of my plans should be arriving in a few days, compliments of Rich, along with some shell from MOP supplies. Sometime in between building the guitar I have to remoddle a house, build a metal sculpture that I promised a local art gallery, and knock out a bandsawn box for a special someone. So much to do, so little time. After 48 hours without sleep, I'm ready for a break. Aderol has nothing on me...back to studying. I had to post something; I'm just too anxious to start building this thing. Edited December 16, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted December 16, 2005 Report Share Posted December 16, 2005 Just as an update. This build should be underway within the next week. As I type now, I'm studying for a chemistry exam which I'll be taking in 2 hours. After that, I drive back home for the holidays and finally get to start on it. I've got a pile of lumber waiting for me, and a full size hardcopy of my plans should be arriving in a few days, compliments of Rich, along with some shell from MOP supplies. Sometime in between building the guitar I have to remoddle a house, build a metal sculpture that I promised a local art gallery, and knock out a bandsawn box for a special someone. So much to do, so little time. After 48 hours without sleep, I'm ready for a break. Aderol has nothing on me...back to studying. I had to post something; I'm just too anxious to start building this thing. ← Good thing you're a relaxed, take-it-easy, "I'll-get-to-it-tomorrow-or-sometime-soon" type o' guy. Man, and I thought I was hyperactive... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted December 17, 2005 Report Share Posted December 17, 2005 Just found this thread....I like the body shape, and the headstock. A cool Ric-bass vibe on a guitar. Is it too late to carve some nipples into the top? Then it'd look like a tank top... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted December 18, 2005 Report Share Posted December 18, 2005 Yeah man I cannot wait to see this one completed, I think it will be amazing and something different, that top design is really going to blow some people away. I have seen a lot of Russ' stuff and his attention to detail is beyond anyones I've seen, even the inside of his guitars are done up to perfection, not an uneven surface in sight. And I am digging the shape overall, different without going overboard and just making random ugly shapes just to call it your own design, plus that wood ahhhh thats the good stuff. I've never seen a dull piece from Rich, he has an eye for the AAAAA of every wood he sees. SO like I said I cannot wait to see this one done, and if it is anything like the last time frame it will be in GOTM before we know it. One little piece of advice for you Russ, if you know anyone going to Hawaii anytime soon, have them pick you up some Kona coffee, they sell it here but it's nothing like the real stuff they sell, one cup and your good to go for days, I don't know if they add some cocco leaves or what but that stuff packs a punch. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 20, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 20, 2005 (edited) To all those people who have been told "draw it out to full scale first"(with good reason, migh I add), this: ...is what you should shoot for . Thought I'd post a teaser shot. Time to go make some lexan templates. peace, russ Edited December 20, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 24, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2005 (edited) Well, the lexan templates are a no go for the time being. No local glass or hardware stores carry 1/4" thick lexan or acrylic. As far as I'm concerned, it's not worth having it shipped. Sooo, I've opted to go with 1/4" and 3/4" grade A plywood. So far I've built myself a copy of david myka's neck angle jig and a simple scarf joint router jig as well. I wish I'd made these jigs a long time ago. I glued up my necks scarf joint as well. Here are a few pics of what today's efforts yielded: (click to enlarge) I owe a debt of gratitude to sir isaac newton and the other pioneers of math. At first I had no idea how I'd know how much to raise the sliding piece to achieve a 1,2,3,4,5,6, or 7 degree angle. Then it hit me; I could multiply the tangent of the degree by the length of the box to figure out how high the sliding piece would need to be elevated. This thing gave me a super clean and accurate surface for my scarf joint. I'm glad I spent all of 10 minutes making it. You can't really make it out in the image, but that black limba has some very nice flame figuring to it. It's almost perfectly quartersawn as well. peace, russ Edited December 24, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 (edited) Tomorrow promises to be a pleasantly busy day. (Click to enlarge) peace, russ Edited December 31, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clem Posted December 31, 2005 Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 Hey thegarehanman, have you ever used acadian hardwoods to get wood? if so how is their selection? I live in south LA also and was wondering about them Cause I see their trucks in town alot (thibodaux) I know Pontchatoula is pretty close to Slidell And from the pictures on the web they look to be pretty big and they deliver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 (edited) Acadian hardwoods in pontchatoula? I've never heard of them. The only hardwood yard I know of, that's fairly close, is Riverside Lumber in New Orleans. However, Riverside has a very varied selection(have to pick through to find a board that isn't warped), and the only commonly used guitar building woods they carry are honduran mahogany, purpleheart, bubbinga, and birdseye maple, maybe some swamp ash. Anyhow, I've purchased some lumber from Riverside, but never from Acadian. The wood for this build was all purchased from Rich Fryovanni, a member of this board, but he's not selling wood currently . peace, russ Edited December 31, 2005 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clem Posted December 31, 2005 Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 their website is acaidianhardwoods.com They might be worth checking out. they do have some wood posted on their website but it may not be all that they have. I have been wanting to check out Riverside for a long time but since Katrina that kind of blew that. I didn't even think that they would be open being they are on the East side of N.O. Next time I go to Mandeville I may go and check Acadian out. If I find anything good I'll post it for you here. Also we get 1/4" lexan by the 4x8 sheet at work I'll try to find out where they buy it from becasuse I'd like to remake all of my templates with it and do away with the plywood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 Yeah, if you find out about the lexan and it's within maybe an hours drive from either slidell or baton rouge, please pass their name by me. I really haven't been too disatisfied with all of the plywood templates that I've made. This is the first build that I've actually bothered to use templates for. All of my other builds turned out fine, but this design is one I intend to use several times and I figured I'd save myself some trouble. What I do is cut the plywood template, saturate any sharp corners in CA, fill in any holes or inconsistencies with bondo, and spray a couple of light coats of clear along the sides just to stabalize it. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
olyen Posted December 31, 2005 Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 hey thegarenman you ve got the same band saw i have that s cool, mine it s pretty old and i cant get pretty accurate cuts,its probably thati dont know how to set it up too ,anyways nice work ,keep pics coming. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted December 31, 2005 Author Report Share Posted December 31, 2005 I have no problem getting nice cuts with mine. The only trouble I have is sometimes the thing doesn't want to tilt the full 90 degrees. It takes a little forceful persuasion to get it tilted totally perpendicular. I keep everything well lubricated, and it serves its puprose well. Best part is I only paid $50 for it. It was in new condition when I got it. It belonged to an old woman who's husband bought it just before he died. It just sat in their garage for about 2 years, then I liberated it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted January 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2006 Well, I didn't get as much done today as I would have liked. I ended up having to help a friend move some wood for a bonfire tonight, and routing the wedges using the triangular template I made ended up being more time consuming than I had expected. Anyhow, here's a mock up of what the top will look like. You'll see I've sketched out the body's profile on the maple. All I have to do now to get the top done is go over every edge with a scraper, and glue it up. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted January 1, 2006 Report Share Posted January 1, 2006 Very interesting thegarehanman!! I like it, plus your trying new things out and being inventive in your approach. Nice design, I like it a lot, and am anxious to see how the tang top will look once finished. I like how you took the time to actually build jigs and tools while working on your guitar. That shows that you want everything done right or not at all. Keep up the great work... looks great so far. Matt V Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted January 2, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2006 (edited) Man, let me tell you that it was not easy getting that gapless joint(that bit at the top didn't meet up perfectly, to my dismay, but it would have been cut off anyway, so nothing lost, nothing gained). It ends up that joining two wedge shaped pieces at what is more or less end grain...is no walk in the park. I should have anticipated that. Well, this picture shows it can be done. Ironic part of it is that my router apparently slipped a bit while I was thicknessing this piece and it's now 9/16" thick, a bit too thin to use on the top. I suppose I shouldn't have been using my beater router for thicknessing. Oh well, live and learn. Fortunately, I have enough flamed maple left to remake that piece. If I didn't, I'd have to start from scratch so I could get the grain patterns/figuring to match, more or less. Well, that's all I've got as updates go. A package from LMII should be arriving today with some build essentials; oh the anticipation. peace, russ Edited January 2, 2006 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted January 6, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2006 (edited) (Click thumbnails to enlarge) Well, I finally got my package form LMII. It was about 3 days late. Oh, well. I got pretty worried when I noticed that it looked like the delivery man used it as a seat cussion, but, fortunately, the contents were fine. Ok, mishap # 2. I glued a black fiber veneer onto my body blank last night. I used a substanial amount of weight to get a good seal. Somehow, the body cupped in the process. What's weird, is that it cupped towards the ground. Somehow it overcame the 50 some odd pounds that was on it and cupped. Until further notice, I'm going to blame it on the temperature change/barametric pressure drop we experienced last night. Well, it's possible that the weight was distributed more towards the outside. I have no real way of telling since I put several ceramic tiles on it before loading it with weight. Anyhow, it had cupped about 1/4." I'm periodically wetting the whole thing while apply pressure only to the center of the cupping while having the entire blank lying on a perfectly flat surface. Right now I have about 1/16-1/8 left and I'll be in business. It still has a bit of wood to be glued on so I'm not too worried about it warping once that's taken care of. Someone told me that you're supposed to overcorrect a warp. Is that true? It makes sense to me when you're talking about metal, but it doesn't seem copasetic with wood. Here's a picture of my recovery efforts: I cut the neck into 3 pieces and laminated some black fiber veneer into it. I also cut the truss rod channel. I've got all of the 30 degree wedges glued into sets of 2, making that a total of 6 60 degree wedges. I've glued two sets of 60 degree wedges up and will be adding another 30 degree wedge onto each shortly. After that, I run the two 180 degree pieces through the jointer and glue those puppies up. That line you see is actually a height difference, not a gap. I've come up with a pretty efficient way of clamping these things, but I don't forsee myself going through the trouble to make a top like this again in the near future . peace, russ Edited January 6, 2006 by thegarehanman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted January 8, 2006 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2006 Clamping gone ghetto: The two halves of the top are now gluing. Soon we'll see the very first wedge top in all its glory. Here's a photo of the backstrapping slowly taking the form of the volute. I tried steaming but that didn't work so well. Now I just periodically wet the rosewood while putting constant pressure on it. So far so good. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted January 9, 2006 Report Share Posted January 9, 2006 I've got to REALLY congradulate you on this one... everytime I think up as weet idea that I think is totally awesome original... it gets shot down by a "been done". HOWEVER, this is just amazing! The idea is truely your own (from what I've seen and know). Mad props! (props exchangable for easily breakable toys at your nearest chuckie-cheeses). Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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