Nitefly SA Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 I've decided that i will probably be asking a lot of questions for my parker build, so i decided to start this thread in which i will post my questions rather than starting a bunch of threads for single questions. first 2 questions 1. Where can i gat a maple, non- figured neck through blank,roughly 1" x 3" x 42" 2. i wanted to use a non radiused fret board for this like a classical and i was planning on using the one from stewmac but now i see that its a 25" scale, not a 25.5" so could i still use it since its not that far off or should i just get a different fretboard? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 that .5 will make a world of difference if you use that fretboard and have the bridge 25.5" away from the nut. if that's what you're asking. HOWEVER, just because a parker is 25.5" that doesn't mean yours HAS to be, you could do a 25" with little difference. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 Either LMII or Stew Mac should have the blank, LMII will have the fretboard, too. Are you going to use Parker-sized DiMarzios? What about the bridge? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 it will be a standard hardtail so in turn i'll have standard sized dimarzios, it wont be an exact replica more of a tribute type of deal, what would the affects of a 25" scale be? thanks for your replies Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 I think you might be the one who posted a couple of sketches quite a while back, of some guitar designs you came up with, and I remember one of them looking way better than a Parker. Name was Retro something. Maybe it was somebody else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 no that was me, i was considering doing one of those designs or a parker im still not completely sure which i will do, but all the specs will be the same in either one (wood/pickups/hardware) so it could go either way for a while. I've always wanted a parker and i'll never afford a nice one (P-series doesn't count) so i wanted to make one, if ambition strikes then i may make my own design, we'll just have to see, thanks for your complemet on my design though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
crafty Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 it will be a standard hardtail so in turn i'll have standard sized dimarzios, it wont be an exact replica more of a tribute type of deal, what would the affects of a 25" scale be? thanks for your replies So it'll be a flatop like the Nitefly but a neck-through like the regular Fly? You probably won't notice a difference with the 25 inch scale other than it'll be a little less stretching on those barre chords. May sound a little warmer, too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 (edited) it'll be carved like a fly, but to a lesser extent, like around the neck it wont be as thin and stuff like that, because i have no space age materials to support it, i have to keep more wood there. Edit: I found my neck blank on ebay 1.5x6.5x48 which is absolutely perfect, hopefully i win it. Edited March 5, 2006 by Nitefly SA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 Why not throw a few carbon fiber or graphite rods in the neck blank? CF and graphite roundbar is so cheap it's almost free. You just use a bullnose bit to route the slot and put a filler strip on top of the rod. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 i was planning on using some graphite rods in the neck itself, and i was thinking of putting more that go through part of the body and the neck, but i didnt know if i could fill it well or if it would get in the way of my electronics or anything else Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 You can get a fly for $1000 on ebay. I don't know what you're talking about not being able to afford one if you cvan afford to build one?! Wood, electronics, etc. yeah, that 'll be cheaper. But when you add up all the tools, materials, etc. that you need to build. All that stuff adds up REALLY quickly. My Meu with all the tools I had to buy in order ot make it (cause I had NONE when I started) probably cost $2000. So unless you're using someone else's workshop... it may just actually be cheaper to buy a fly in the end... Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 (edited) 1. Where can i get a maple, non- figured neck through blank,roughly 1" x 3" x 42" 2. i wanted to use a non radiused fret board for this like a classical and i was planning on using the one from stewmac but now i see that its a 25" scale, not a 25.5" so could i still use it since its not that far off or should i just get a different fretboard? thanks 1) Don't you have lumber yard where you live? Why can't you just buy the maple Locally? 2) The classical guitars I've seen have radiused fretboards, but then, I haven't played a lot of classical guitars - kinda like Ibanez RG/Jems and Godin electrics which are 16" radius. If you want to buy a pre-slotted fretboard, there's a guy on eBay that sells them in a variety of woods and scales. I'm sure that he could make you a fretboard with the exact specs you're looking for. Edited March 5, 2006 by guitar2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 (edited) well the thing is with affording the fly this you make medium purchases over time thats one lump some at once, you know what i mean? I've added up most of the things i nee and right now im under 300 dollars so still doing pretty good. 2 new questions, does any body know where i can get a 3 way switch thats normal size (like les paul/sg) thats made of metal(silver in color)? also you can have a piezo system with inactive pickups right? Thanks edit:I Won my wood! .99 isnt bad for that much wood Edited March 5, 2006 by Nitefly SA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 edit:I Won my wood! .99 isnt bad for that much wood Hopefully it is quartersawn wood OR has the proper grain pattern so it doesn't warp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 5, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 well, warping shouldnt be a problem with a 2 way truss rod and 2 carbon fiber rods in it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 It is BEFORE you make the neck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 you read my mind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted March 5, 2006 Report Share Posted March 5, 2006 speaking of "some guy on ebay that sells a number of wood types for fretboards at a number of scale lengths..." anyone got his ebay name??? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted March 6, 2006 Report Share Posted March 6, 2006 speaking of "some guy on ebay that sells a number of wood types for fretboards at a number of scale lengths..." anyone got his ebay name??? Chris Here is the link to one of his auctions: http://cgi.ebay.ca/Guitar-Fretboard-COCOBO...1QQcmdZViewItem his ebay name is flyingvmach3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 7, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 7, 2006 Bump. Can you use a piezo system with passive pickups? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 new question, can i put the truss rod to the side of the neck? it appears to be that way on parkers and also i cant put it anywhere else where it would still be adjustable Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted March 29, 2006 Report Share Posted March 29, 2006 (edited) Yes you can use a peizo system with passive pickups. The piezo doesn't run through any of the "passive" electronics.. A quick read on LR Baggs site and you'll know all you need to about peizo systems. About the truss rod. If I understand your question correctly your talking about the trussrod running down the middle of the neck correct? If you don't put it in the center you are going to run into two very serious problems. 1. when you carve, the neck would have to be really thick so you don't carve all the way through to the truss rod. This reason alone would be enough to not do it. But thers another one, 2. when you adjust the truss rod it would twist the neck (to some extent, and you would probably only have a bad problem over time) because the truss rod is off center. Just think about where the force is applied and it will make sense. Edited March 29, 2006 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 well heres the thing godin, i trust you are familiar with the parker headstock, the truss rod adjustment hole is under the main headstock, which is pretty much on the side, here this kind of illustrates what i mean http://www.steviebs.com/images/guitars/parkerflygold.jpg i may just go with a couple CF rods in the neck if i cand get the TR right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted March 30, 2006 Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 I'm thinking they use some kind of universal joint (I'm aussuming you know what that is). Why don't you just make the adjustment in the center like most guitars? I don't get the big deal with having it over to the side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nitefly SA Posted March 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2006 i just want in to be accurate is all, i guess i could do it in the center, of get one of those pin wheel ones and have it down by the heel, thanks godin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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