Memphetic Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 I accidentally routed my neck join cavity too far - the line in the picture represents how it was *supposed* to be... how can I fix this? :-\ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Racer X Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Is this gonna be a solid color or trans finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarGuy Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 you just learned lesson #1 templates. Always make templates. If its a solid finish you can make a plug to fit it an re route it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robert_the_damned Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 The best thing might be to cut more out so you can stick a big solid block in. Would be how I'd fix this. Robert Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGGR Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Did you use template when routing??? Cause all routes seem like an aweful free handjob. In future, invest in template bit, some MDF and make proper template......this way mistakes like these are not make. If you want to finish in natural color you're in trouble. If you want to finish in solid color.......get template bit, make template, route nice flush line in body (making hole bit bigger). And glue in piece of same material body wood. Glue joint when properly done (flush sides) will be stronger then original wood. So nothing lost......but invest in proper techniques and tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Memphetic Posted April 30, 2006 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 well, the pickup cavities are freehanded because not only is it faster, but it gets covered by the pick guard anyway... however, yes, it will be a solid color finish, so you're saying I should cut a block of wood to fit it, glue it in, and then re-rout it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 (edited) so you're saying I should cut a block of wood to fit it, glue it in, and then re-rout it? Not exatly. You should rout a little bit bigger to get some strait lines. Than making the block that fits perfect will be %10000 easier. Edited April 30, 2006 by Godin SD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted April 30, 2006 Report Share Posted April 30, 2006 Fill it in with Milliput or some other form of epoxy putty. I use epoxy putty for my hobby of model military in 1/35 scale and I know that Milliput is dependable. You could look @ hobby shops and/or in hardware stores for it. But you could probably also use Durham water putty but that comes in a liquid form as Milliput comes out like clay but becomes rock solid in about 24 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarGuy Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Fill it in with Milliput or some other form of epoxy putty. I use epoxy putty for my hobby of model military in 1/35 scale and I know that Milliput is dependable. You could look @ hobby shops and/or in hardware stores for it. But you could probably also use Durham water putty but that comes in a liquid form as Milliput comes out like clay but becomes rock solid in about 24 hours. 100% bad advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mushy the shroom Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 You know, if you are to be making the fretboard/neck as well, you could rout that out a bit further and straighter, and add a bit to the side of the neck, perhaps with a little rounding from the fretboard on down (if you were to make the fretboard). I bet you could make it quite nice looking if you were to extend it out 1/4" to 1/2".. maybe even add a signature engraving if you have the patience . Heck, you could even do this with a block (although it would be more difficult) if you aren't building the fretboard. Maybe this helps? And Guitar Guy, maybe you could explain why you think the advice is bad (admittedly, it's a bit of a half-assed fix, but maybe it's what he is looking for). No need to be brash, although it's good to point out ideas that might not work so well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuitarGuy Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 And Guitar Guy, maybe you could explain why you think the advice is bad (admittedly, it's a bit of a half-assed fix, but maybe it's what he is looking for). No need to be brash, although it's good to point out ideas that might not work so well. The filler is not meant to fill voids as large as we're talking about here. It can lead to shrinkage that probably wont become evident until it has the finish on it. Not to mention milliputty is very hard. It would be an interesting routing experience cutting through that stuff. Considering the type of defect you would be filling and routing (a relatively large chunk of epoxy) i can see it coming out as one chunk. But I could be wrong. I guess my point is that it is always better to do it right then a patch. Yeah, that was a little abrupt of me, sorry. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tirapop Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 GG, I think you're right. First, with bolt-on necks, one of the important details is getting a tight fit between the neck and the neck pocket. I don't know if that's just tone mojo, but, a tight joint is something people strive for. Some people even shim the gap if there is one. Second, the wood at the end of the pocket can be under a lot of stress. There's a website somewhere that shows pics of Jems that all have cracks where that sliver of wood tapers out at the neck pocket. Epoxy filler isn't a great structural or acoustic material. It's a cosmetic fix that probably isn't very durable either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Memphetic Posted May 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 So, perhaps the easiest and most time-effective way would be to simply modify the join area of the neck to conform to the error then? However, I still need tips on actually making this neck (Probably post them in the topic I made for it...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 well, the pickup cavities are freehanded because not only is it faster, but it gets covered by the pick guard anyway... If thats your attitude, please stop building immediately. Templates are MUCH faster than freehand, even including setup time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 well, the pickup cavities are freehanded because not only is it faster, but it gets covered by the pick guard anyway... If thats your attitude, please stop building immediately. Templates are MUCH faster than freehand, even including setup time. Yeah, really --this is what gives pickguards a bad name. They're meant as a structural design element, not as an excuse for shortcuts. Anyway, if you don't start using templates --you'll need the appropriate bits for that too --then you're just headed for more screwups. The guitar's going to end up a mess--even if you can hide some of that, it's going to be difficult to be proud of it. My advice, if you really don't want to use templates --ditch the router and learn how to use a chisel. At least it's slower and there's less risk of you routing your fingers off. Because if you're in too much of a rush to make a template, then you're probably in too much of a rush to be careful. Slow down, take your time. Look at it this way: the guitar you're building may last you the rest of your life. So the little extra time and effort you spend on it now will be nothing in the long term. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 What I'm trying to figure out now, is just how this has saved you any time? If you'd have used a template you'd be moving onto other parts of the build by now, instead your spending your time trying to fix a job you did quickly. Not to be critical, but sometimes when you try to make things easier or faster, you make things harder for yourself in the long run, and the job ends up taking you 10 times longer than if you'd have just done it right in the first place. Take the time to make some good templates next time and you won't be sorry. Again, freehand routing is a very very bad idea!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 (edited) Milliput is a two-part epoxy putty from England. Use it for sculpting, gap-filling, and scratch-building. One of the definitive mediums of many top sculptors. Magic Sculp is a two-part epoxy putty specifically designed to meet the needs of modelers, crafters and sculptors alike. Its grain structure is finer than any other product available and will not shrink or crack even when formed in large structures. It can be shaped by hand or with modeling tools, sanded, carved, painted; you can attack it with a grinding tool and the cured material will not break apart or loose its shape. Magic Sculp will cure at room temperature. Celluclay Instant Papier Maché The original papier mache. Simple to prepare - just add water. Requires no firing. Air dries into a stronge hard permanent material like wood. Adheres to almost any surface. Can be sanded, painted, sawed and nailed Uh, look at this. Edited May 1, 2006 by PunkRockerLuke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Templates are MUCH faster than freehand, even including setup time. And making a template is great practice for making the real thing, especially if you don't get the template right the first time. Me? I'd make it into a 7. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daniel Sorbera Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 Would you wan't your guitars neck anchord in a clay or epoxy product? Because I wouldn't. those products (epoxy excluded) are not desinged for the extreme stress that would be placed on it by the neck. And if nothing else, the tone would seriously suffer. It's really a half assed solution to a serious problem on a VERY crucial area of the guitar that sould be -perfect- You really shouldn't be giving advice, and telling it as rock solid fact, that is completely unproven in the guitar world. It would be fine to tell them to use puddy to fill a neck pocket (even though it's a horriable idea) if and only if you tell the person that it is only an idea that it might work, and that no ones tried it before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 1, 2006 Report Share Posted May 1, 2006 OK nevermind then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.