Mickguard Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 I'm getting ready to shape the headstock --I'm going with a drop down style, but I don't have a bandsaw --is it possible to use a router? I'm thinking I can use the router to take out most of the depth --use a rounded bit to shape the bottom of the slope, and use a rasp and sandpaper to get the slope. But maybe there's a better way? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PunkRockerLuke Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 do you have a coping saw? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 Coping saw for sure! -Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 I think Mick means how to thickness a Fender style head - not cut the outline of the head. I'd use a handsaw, router thicknesser and my spindle sander. If I didn't have the sander I'd use coarse paper wrapped around a can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 I had to do a Fender-style drop down for my lap steel, and I used a router to do it. (from the top, not the side, in case you were thinking otherwise) Worked out pefectly. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 There's no reason you can't use a router. Just remember to use a bullnose bit when you get near the nut, so you get that curve from the face of the headstock up to the fretboard...or your could just leave a chunk of wood and sand the curve into the headstock with a drum sander. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted May 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 There's no reason you can't use a router. Just remember to use a bullnose bit when you get near the nut That's the problem with being over here, you can't just walk into a store and buy exactly what you need --I've been looking for the right bit--but all I can find are bits with bearings in that shape. But that would be my first choice. I'm going to give Setch's can idea a go though --or I have thick dowel here, that might work too. But yeah, Greg, I'll be going from the top down....I might end up using a saw on the bottom side though, since the wood I'm using is much thicker than I need. Gonna play around with scrap for a few days first! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guitarfrenzy Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 From the movie Making of A Strat... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted May 31, 2006 Author Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 From the movie Making of A Strat... One of my favorite films these days... I can't find a sander like that around here--that would definitely help... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 What Matt Said. I thicknessed mine down with a router riding on two scraps (po' mans router thicknessing jig, sans the 'jig'), and drum sanded the transition like in that there picture up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnsilver Posted May 31, 2006 Report Share Posted May 31, 2006 I used an inexpensive pull saw I found at a hardware store. The kerf is pretty thin and with a pull cut, it was relatively easy to control and went pretty quickly. Once I cut down the head, I used rasps and sanding with a dowel to get the rounded bit. The sanding took a while but came out well I think. Result Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
doug Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 The router would make a real nice clean job, and that "chunk" near the nut could be worked rather quickly using the methods already discussed. You need only a standard straight type bit. You could try one of THESE in your drill press. I have one for the occasional odd job. It can be kinda handy sometimes. -Doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j. pierce Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 I'm wondering how folks go about thinning an angled headstock with a volute. Thining an angled headstock is easy enough - (or, I suppose you could start with a thinner piece of wood prior to doing your scarf joint) but thinning the neck-blank wood to an appropriate thickness for a headstock and working around the volute, while keeping the plane of the back of the headstock parrallel with the top seems difficult to me. Although, perhaps I'm just making my volutes wrong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted June 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 I used an inexpensive pull saw I found at a hardware store. Result Yeah, that looks great...pretty much what I'd like to achieve. I kind of like the idea of switching to hand tools for this part --although I'd be a little worried about getting my lines straight. I suppose I could put together a miter-box-like jig. Seems to me you could use this method for both sides of an angled headstock --that'd keep you away from the volute. I'm going to the hardware store--they have one of those Japanese pull saws, I'd like to try it out...the one they have is pretty thick though. I'm also playing around with ideas for modifying the Zachary headstock --not for the shape, but for the idea of keeping it thick. But that would be for a different neck. Since I'm using a zero fret, I have the idea that I can simply flip over a nut (I'd use a longer graphite or a trem nut blank with screws at the ends) to apply pressure to the strings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian d Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 From the movie Making of A Strat... One of my favorite films these days... I can't find a sander like that around here--that would definitely help... I got the microplane version of that (drum sander for the drill) from Rockler. They shipped to Australia, so they'll probably ship to you. I haven't used it yet, but I can't wait! When you're not in the US, there's a lot to be said for USPS when you need guitar building related stuff. Brian. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davis guitars Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 1. circular saw 2. plane ur heart out .3 the old sanding block and sand paper Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted June 1, 2006 Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Mick: StewMac has the robosander, and Axminster.co.uk (you've been there before, right?) has all manner of drum sanders that can be mounted quite easily in a drill press. Nothing to stop you, really. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mickguard Posted June 1, 2006 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2006 Mick: StewMac has the robosander, and Axminster.co.uk (you've been there before, right?) has all manner of drum sanders that can be mounted quite easily in a drill press. Nothing to stop you, really. I almost bought the robosander a couple months back, then decided against it at the last minute...wish I had now. What I do have is a set of metal hole cutters for the drill--I'm thinking I can wrap sandpaper around one of those, it'll become a drumsander. Anyway, it's a new month --my tool budget just opened up again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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