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Ignore the stupidity of this question


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Don't angle the neck too much though or you'll have to have a super tall bridge to play that thing.. lol..  somewhere between 2-4 degrees should be enough for any neck..

Actually, no.

Les Paul necks often end up at as much as 7 degrees, since you have to take into account the carve of the top. Bascally you need to consider the top of the binding the top of the guitar, and consider the thickness of the top (above the binding) as part of the bridge height.

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Like fine furniture, the opposing tenon and cavity are joined permanently with wood glue so that the neck's angle and playability last for the life of the instrument without the tonal compromises associated with plates and bolts

The above quote is from the link posted earlier in this topic. I thought I read somewhere that a major manufacturer had done research on the neck-through/set neck/bolt on methods and found very little if any difference in sustain / tone? Does anyone else remember reading about this (from within ProjectGuitar)?

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Like fine furniture, the opposing tenon and cavity are joined permanently with wood glue so that the neck's angle and playability last for the life of the instrument without the tonal compromises associated with plates and bolts

The above quote is from the link posted earlier in this topic. I thought I read somewhere that a major manufacturer had done research on the neck-through/set neck/bolt on methods and found very little if any difference in sustain / tone? Does anyone else remember reading about this (from within ProjectGuitar)?

that sounds like an ed roman thing.he claims that HIS and only his bolt on guitars have as much sustain as a neck thru or set neck because of something he calls acoustic coupling,which simply put means that there is an extremely tight fit in the neck pocket,therebye creating a better transfer of tone between neck and body,making them act as a single piece of wood.there is also no finish at all in the neck pocket or on that part of the neck heel.

generally speaking i have noticed a small difference in tone between neck thrus and set necks...it is not unpleasant.most bolt ons,though,do seem to lose a noticeable amount of resonance and sustain in the neck pocket.

i prefer a neck thru.it just "feels" better to me

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Don't angle the neck too much though or you'll have to have a super tall bridge to play that thing.. lol..   somewhere between 2-4 degrees should be enough for any neck..

Actually, no.

Les Paul necks often end up at as much as 7 degrees, since you have to take into account the carve of the top. Bascally you need to consider the top of the binding the top of the guitar, and consider the thickness of the top (above the binding) as part of the bridge height.

We'll being someone who owns 3 Gibson guitars.. and each has the following angle 2deg, 3 deg, and approx. 3.5 degrees. So I'm just saying that based on my measurements taken from my own guitars, measuring from the flat middle part of the body as my reference. I'm not saying that a 7 degree angle wasn't done by Gibson, just saying that I don't own any that does. As far as what I was suggesting to him was if he made some kinda exagerrated angle like 20 degrees or more.. just trying to help him get in the ballpark. I'm interested to hear what other people have as a neck angle on their Gibson's...

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hey frenzy,,, you may be on to something about that neck angle on gibsons. I have experience with les pauls, sg's, and an es333 and I have never personally seen a neck angle of over 4 degrees on mine. They may be out there but I haven't seen one yet. 7 degrees is getting into headstock angle areas. I would like to see a neck angle of 7 degrees though. If you get your protractor out and see what 7 looks like at the neck, it is one jacked up sumbitch. Some waterhead must have designed that one.

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Setch is right about that.. If your guitar isn't gonna have much carving in the neck pocket area, you can make a template out of a piece of plywood where the neck pocket template will tilt due to shims under the other end of the guitar.. just figure out what angle you want.. and shim it at the bridge end of the board so it will angle the plywood and cut the pocket at that angle.. One note of caution: Make sure that the shims won't move or the template or you'll mess up big time (there are many ways to insure that it doesn't... gluing the shims onto the bottom of the plywood is helpful) There are probably a million more ways to do that, and each will work. Just decide on the one you think is more comfortable for you. Good luck...

Matt V

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