radrobgray Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 finally i started build #2. i decided to challenge my self now that i know that i can make a guitar thats a player. on this one i did my first inlay and will try to bend a forearm contour. i wanted something less pointy and "metal" so i decided to just make a soloist. made some progress but i still cant decide what color its going to be. i was thinking either a desert burst or a yellow to green burst thing(like that green dimebag guitar that was on here), most likely with gold hardware. SPECS 25 1/2" scale 24 frets Floyd Rose H-S-S pups, maybe a sustainiac sustainer Neckthru w/ flame maple and rosewood laminates Honduran mahogany body w/ 1/8" brazilian cherry laminate, 1/4" flame maple drop top and natural binding matching flame maple headplate w/ natural binding, and Ebony Fretboard w/ reverse head stock and reverse mop sharkfins heres the pics: Full neck shot Neck shot, wet down Fret Board Mahogany body blank Flame maple top also there is a probelm i have run into, theres a knot/void in the head stock and i dont know how to fix it, Heres a close up pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hughes Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 you might be able to use some maple colored filler to fill that knot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted November 20, 2006 Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 You'd be better off using some sort of colored epoxy to fill that and then use a headplate of whatever wood you chose. Wood filler is a big no-no, it dries and cracks and is actually pretty useless. I'm concerned that your headstock isn't long enough, especially if you want to use a typical soloist 6 inline headstock. Have you confirmed that it's the right length? peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted November 20, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 20, 2006 (edited) I'm concerned that your headstock isn't long enough, especially if you want to use a typical soloist 6 inline headstock. Have you confirmed that it's the right length? it looks short but most of the head stock its off the edge of the neck, as in i need to glue the sides on. i actually have about 1" extra tis long enough. Edited November 23, 2006 by Rob G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted November 23, 2006 Author Report Share Posted November 23, 2006 heres a pic of it with the wings attached and roughed. soon i will carve the arm contour and then put on the 1/8" brazillian cherry top. after that i can then attach the bm flamemaple drop top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sambo Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 With the knot in the headstock. Why not get a veneer thats similar to the top of the body and do a matching headstock? Seems like the easy option to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yahilltrade Posted November 24, 2006 Report Share Posted November 24, 2006 ^+1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted May 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 i got more progress, need to rout the pups/electronics cavitys, do the belly cut, and shape/fret the neck. then ill be ready for the dry fit of all the hardware. for $15 id say that tops awsome, im glad it didnt crack when i bent it (its 3/16 thick). Full Front Figure Figure 2 Headstock Front Headstock Back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Nice work, Rob, looks awesome thus far! Watch out you don't impale the singer with that headstock Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOAMdude Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 awsome work! for making arm contours did you just sand and plane it down to that? for the OFR did you use Stewmac routiing templates? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted May 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 awsome work! for making arm contours did you just sand and plane it down to that? for the OFR did you use Stewmac routiing templates? for the contours i bent the top over the contour and i made the template for the floydrose, you can get the drawings with all the mesurements at floydrose.com. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 I don't know from drop-tops, so I'm not sure what the typical scenario is-- but did you need to "pre-bend" the top before gluing? Ie. bend it in place, then apply... ? water? steam? Something to do much of the work? Or is it held in bent shape just by virtue of being a thin enough top coupled with a good glue job? Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted May 4, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 I don't know from drop-tops, so I'm not sure what the typical scenario is-- but did you need to "pre-bend" the top before gluing? Ie. bend it in place, then apply... ? water? steam? Something to do much of the work? Or is it held in bent shape just by virtue of being a thin enough top coupled with a good glue job? Greg i was going to leave the to 1/4" but at the advice of some on these boards i didnt, i reduced it to 3/16" which made a huge differance as far as flexability is concerned. heres the short version of how i did it: 1. lots of heat and a little water/steam (the first one i tried had too much water so it cracked). 2. clamped it to the top and slowly went around the contour with about 6 clamps. 3. waited a week clamped and untouched 4. unclamped and glued up immediately using a rediculous amount of clamps, 20 5. left for another week. 6. done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JOAMdude Posted May 23, 2007 Report Share Posted May 23, 2007 waht happened here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted July 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 more progress...(pics later today) i shaped the neck and am getting ready for the cavitys. i also started making a matrhing truss trod cover out of flame maple, i was thinking of inlay something on it. but, im not sure if im ready to try to inlay maple. hopefully saturday i will have my nitro, stain, and gold tuners. i got lemon yellow and green so im gonna give this thing a dime slime burst deal. all i have left to buy is the electronics. im thinking on going with a seymour duncan JB and some singles that'll give me that yngwie neck lead tone. as for the electronics go i think im gonna try three individual switches for each pup and a simple vol. and tone. any suggestions for the two singles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tubab0y Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 I've always recommended against individual switches- hard to switch to the neck pickup for solos and back on the fly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 6, 2007 Report Share Posted July 6, 2007 Plus it's easy to create redundant sounds you'll never use. A switch to series/parallel the two singles would be interesting....wide humbucker vs. two singles as an option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted July 7, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 is there any way i could use a 3 way toggle for 3 pups? ie: maybe a regular bridge-both-neck then an on/off for the middle? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I've never liked 3/5-way switches personally but given good thought, a LOT of options are possible. Am I right in thinking there are some multi-leaf blade switches out there say, four pole instead of two? They would open up a LOT of options. I love writing LOT in capitals if you haven't noticed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 4-pole 5-way switches are commonplace, and yeah-- the options are pretty staggering. I'm not ruling out mini-switches for specific purposes, but for most standard magnetic schemes, I can't think of much that I'd want to do that you can't do with a 4-pole 5-way switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 Well, you only have five options to select so your options are surprisingly limited ;-D Do you have a list of sounds you want to achieve, or are you wanting the guitar to have an available palette taking into account that many of the things offered by that palette may be redundant or just plain poo? IIRC, the Red Special has a lot of redundant sounds which Mr May probably has no use for, but the flipside is that most things can be done to all three pickups.... To answer your question in Post #18 "yes." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GregP Posted July 7, 2007 Report Share Posted July 7, 2007 I think we agree. The options are actually staggering with a 4-pole switch. It's just that you eventually narrow them down to the 5 you would actually use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted July 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 well the reason i stray from the 5 way is i hate the way blade switches look. i prefer toggles... if they made a 4 position toggle id be in business.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted July 8, 2007 Report Share Posted July 8, 2007 well the reason i stray from the 5 way is i hate the way blade switches look. i prefer toggles... if they made a 4 position toggle id be in business.. I agree - they do look a little nasty, but hey - another one of Leo's lack of corners! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
radrobgray Posted September 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2007 ok made some progress hit one speed bump. shaped the neck, volute, transition from neck to body, and belly cut. drilled the "b" string tuning peg 3/32" off the mark, its close enough to be covered with the washer so ill plug it and re-drill. also on the full shot do those pickup outlines look too close or is it just me? Full Neck Transition Belly Cut Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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