verhoevenc Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 They say it's the same thing as the titebond original, which I use 100% of the time on building, just dark. Wondering if anyone's used it. Might be cool to get a little accent like line between joints, kinda like how some people do veneer lines..... but obviously much thinner. Either way, I bought some and plan to EVENTUALLY try it out... but god knows when, but I htought I'd ask if anyone else had any experiance with it anyways. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Surely you *don't* want visible glue lines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marzocchi705 Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 I think that it could be pretty cool actualy, nice little accent lines between laminates. Say on a 3 pc maple neck it could look realy good. Try it out quick!! i want to see it!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted January 1, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Prothesta, most people don't want to see a lgue line cause that's the style they're going for. HOWEVER, if you WANT an accent line... which often people go and buy veneers for the exact purpose of, then it'd be a great idea. Just depends on the look you're going for. And I DO agree, between a 3-piece maple neck could be cool. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 Don't get me wrong Chris :-D I used some of the dark Titebond on a mahogany neck with purpleheart laminations and that turned out nicely. I can't say that the choice of glue really made a difference however! I guess it would be useful when glueing up open pored woods like wenge and padauk as it wouldn't be as obvious in the pores breaking across glue lines, but I don't think I'll be buying any more myself. I would definitely go down the lines of veneers though - they're much more predictable that accent lines from glue, which I presume will be variable depending on clamping pressures and mating surface evenness. I love veneers and the way they break out over contours! I suspect that the dark Titebond was created for non-perfectionist woodwork where mating surfaces aren't always going to be planed tight parallel and glue will be apparent if it is a contrasting colour (say, kitchen units or general home carpentry). Just my two cents Chris - I wouldn't want you to spunk out some money on a bottle only to find it doesn't do what you are hoping it does! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 1, 2007 Report Share Posted January 1, 2007 For what its worth....any glue joint that you can see with the naked eye is substantially weaker than a tight glue joint. Simply from a structural standpoint, you don't want to make a glue accent. Epoxy would be OK. But not glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marzocchi705 Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Yehp but even if you get a realy tite glue joint (same as normal) because the glue is dark you will have a very very fine line that is more visible than the same joint with normal titebond. i'll get some of this stuff tomoro and do my own tests. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Setch Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Hmm. I'm thinking it'll look 'funky' rather than good. A good glueline is microns thick. When you get that thin you're going to have variations of 200% or 300% in line thickness, which will look pretty funky - ie: invisible in places and visible in others. I'll pass... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 People.... my glue jointed are gorgeous. I didn't plan to leave them lose or anything. Twas just curious as to what it would do. And I already have a bottle. Also, if it doesn't do ANYTHING different.... then why do they make it??? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegarehanman Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Chris, don't forget that the glue is designed to seep into the pores and fibers of the wood. This means your line should be blotchy, which obviously means a poor accent line. That and the fact that it should be so thin it shouldn't make a good accent line would lead me to say, ditch the glue an use a veneer if you want a thin line. peace, russ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 I don't want one. I don't forsee using it on a guitar. I got it cuase I thought it was interesting. End of story. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mammoth guitars Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Chris, we use the darker glue on Mahogany or other dark woods to hide the glue line. We use the original for things like maple. Hope that helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 I've never, ever had a problem with visible glue lines and titebond on dark woods, light woods, whatever. I simply do not see the point to the stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Chris, we use the darker glue on Mahogany or other dark woods to hide the glue line. :D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted January 2, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 See Mattia, that's exactly what I'm thinking: Why did Franklin make it then? Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marzocchi705 Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 Experiment on hold, B&Q didnt have any nor did Homebase. I have to go to inverness tomoro befor work so i'll have a look there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 See Mattia, that's exactly what I'm thinking: Why did Franklin make it then? Chris Because most people don't make joints to the same standards we strive for; they're sloppy, not clamped that well, generally not that well prepped. The vast majority of all glue joints ever fall into this category, and the lighter coloured titebond will show up (say, if you then stain the piece dark, f'r instance) with such a joint, ergo the marketing folks at titebond coming up with titebond dark. At least, that's how I see it. There are dozens of commercially available glues that are entirely useless for guitarbuilding, after all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 (edited) I hate quoting myself: I suspect that the dark Titebond was created for non-perfectionist woodwork where mating surfaces aren't always going to be planed tight parallel and glue will be apparent if it is a contrasting colour (say, kitchen units or general home carpentry). That's my suspicion anyway! Oh yes, Titebond is also used to glue other things than hardwood, such as leather, softwoods, particle board and other porous materials. A lot of materials people are adhering won't always develop a seamless join and a glue line will be evident. This is where a darker glue is useful. We - on the other hand - go out of our way to calibrate, mask, scale, flatten, plumb, align, stabilise, match, grade, regularise, measure, surface, gauge, scrape, flush, smooth, plane, sand, scuff and true our edges to make sure the join is foremost mechanically stable, and hopefully by design cosmetically perfect. I can understand why you'd want to achieve what you want Chris, but unfortunately this product won't produce the goods in that way. Blame the faulty universe, not me or Franklin. I have - however - some choice wenge veneer you'd be interested in, but shipping from the UK would be a killer! Edited January 2, 2007 by Prostheta Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 See Mattia, that's exactly what I'm thinking: Why did Franklin make it then? Chris You can by car polish that is coloured so it matches your car. The idea with polish is that it only works when its NOT visible. Most people dont have a clue, and if they are gluing anything together... which looks better?... white glue, or something more matched to the timber they are using? EG: its a marketting thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted January 2, 2007 Report Share Posted January 2, 2007 See Mattia, that's exactly what I'm thinking: Why did Franklin make it then? Chris Because most people don't make joints to the same standards we strive for +1 Mattia In luthiery, you're striving for the kind of machining tolerances that normally apply only to metal. Except you're working with wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mammoth guitars Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 Chris, we use the darker glue on Mahogany or other dark woods to hide the glue line. :D I suppose that did not come across correctly, in any event we use the darker glue on darker wood and lighter glue on lighter colored wood. It makes it very difficult to find the wood joint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rhoads56 Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 Chris, we use the darker glue on Mahogany or other dark woods to hide the glue line. :D I suppose that did not come across correctly, in any event we use the darker glue on darker wood and lighter glue on lighter colored wood. It makes it very difficult to find the wood joint. I dont care what colour the wood is, the only reason you should ever see a join is because of the grain giving it away. Ive NEVER had a glue line show, ever, and if i did, that piece would be scrapped INSTANTLY. I really dont see the point of coloured glue, when the standard stuff DRIES CLEAR ANYWAY. Plus i dont want ANYTHING in that glue mix, that isnt glue (dye)... know what i mean? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fryovanni Posted January 3, 2007 Report Share Posted January 3, 2007 Chris, we use the darker glue on Mahogany or other dark woods to hide the glue line. :D I suppose that did not come across correctly, in any event we use the darker glue on darker wood and lighter glue on lighter colored wood. It makes it very difficult to find the wood joint. I dont care what colour the wood is, the only reason you should ever see a join is because of the grain giving it away. Ive NEVER had a glue line show, ever, and if i did, that piece would be scrapped INSTANTLY. I really dont see the point of coloured glue, when the standard stuff DRIES CLEAR ANYWAY. Plus i dont want ANYTHING in that glue mix, that isnt glue (dye)... know what i mean? Spotting the glue line can be a real mother on my acoustic tops. I actually have to notch the ends of the board to be sure I don't lose it. That is a case where the grain really does not give away the joint(and I have to admit I screwed up a soundboard because I lost the joint *mistaking a grain line for the joint. Which threw off my layout). The glue itself is pretty much invisible unless you were to try to show it. Peace,Rich Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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