metalwarrior Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 A while ago I tried building a guitar. After working on it off and on over a 4 year period I finally got so frustrated I decided to quit, rather than finish a guitar that already had some major mistakes. I figured I might as well put the hardware on and string it up just to see what it would be like. I was blown away with the result. Even though the frets weren't seated properly in some places, and there was no finish on it, it was still so much fun to play a guitar I had made myself that I found a new enthusiasm for guitar building. So now I am building not one, but 3 (or 6 or 7) new guitars. This thread will document the building of the bolt-on Kelly. The other guitars will be a set neck LP copy, and a 7-string neck-thru soloist/gunslinger/rg type. Here's the old Kelly: The hardware was taken off a BC Rich plywood Ironbird. I didn't bother putting the neck pickup in since it wasn't going to get wired up anyway. The inlays are made out of off cuts from the poplar body. They needed to be extra deep since I was going to scallop the fretboard. REGARDING PICS - I have resized my pics to 640x480 to conform with the forum rules, but what I am unclear about is: is it ok to post links to pics larger than that? is it ok to use thumbnails to link to other pics? that second pic in my post is the thumbnail link provided by the image host but it looks a little big to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted March 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 The place I buy my wood from doesn't have the biggest range in the instrument woods section, and most of their woods are not your typical alder/ash/maple guitar woods. I don't know how suitable the woods I have selected are, but I do know unfinished poplar smells incredibly good. I am thinking I will leave the rear cavities unfinished in the hope the smell of the wood will shine through. The nyatoh neck on the first build seems strong and stays in tune well. Unfortuantely the action on that guitar is set to about 4mm to avoid buzz. The new Kelly will have a poplar body with a flamed Cypress drop top, Lime neck, & Ebony fingerboard. The pick ups will be EMG KFK 81/85s. Black hardware - cheapy eBay floyd, tuners, and the dome knobs have abalone tops to match the purfling on the fingerboard. Here 's a pic of the woods in question: And here's a few more pics: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/296856D...ngerboard01.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/840528D...odyRoughCut.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/748669D...carfJoint01.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/773577D...arfJoint-02.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 The place I buy my wood from doesn't have the biggest range in the instrument woods section, and most of their woods are not your typical alder/ash/maple guitar woods. I don't know how suitable the woods I have selected are, but I do know unfinished poplar smells incredibly good. I am thinking I will leave the rear cavities unfinished in the hope the smell of the wood will shine through. The nyatoh neck on the first build seems strong and stays in tune well. Unfortuantely the action on that guitar is set to about 4mm to avoid buzz. The new Kelly will have a poplar body with a flamed Cypress drop top, Lime neck, & Ebony fingerboard. The pick ups will be EMG KFK 81/85s. Black hardware - cheapy eBay floyd, tuners, and the dome knobs have abalone tops to match the purfling on the fingerboard. Here 's a pic of the woods in question: And here's a few more pics: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/296856D...ngerboard01.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/840528D...odyRoughCut.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/748669D...carfJoint01.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/773577D...arfJoint-02.jpg nice woods! are all the neck blanks quartersawn?? never heard of nyatoh before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 is it ok to post links to pics larger than that? yes...but it is polite to post a warning of the size you can see before clicking.i for one cannot d/l a pic larger than about 1000 either direction in any sort of reasonable time. thumbnails?i have seen it before,but we have no clear rules about that.i know thumbnails load very quickly on my computer...so if iu had to guess,i would say it is probably okay(waffling enough for you?hehe) i myself have never found the need to disagree with a few thumbnails...though i think more than a few may be a different story. i think he means nato(although the picture looks more like bubinga)...bc rich uses it alot recently.nice sounding resonant wood...very "husky" in tone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted March 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 Unfortunately the necks are not perfectly quartersawn. Here's a pic of the end grain: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/458220D...84-EndGrain.jpg I have almost completed the inlay, just the engraving to go. If anyone has any tips on engraving I would like some help - it's driving me nuts. I have tried using Laskins filler from stewmac with limited success. I also tried mixing indian ink in with some epoxy but that was a disaster. CA glue over ink seemed to be ok, but I would rather not have to resand the board again. I will post pics as soon as I resize and upload them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_ado Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 hey nice guitar were abouts in Aus are ya? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted March 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 hey nice guitar were abouts in Aus are ya? Thanks, I am from Adelaide. Here are the inlay pics: Skull & cross bones with paua abalone eyeballs and purfling, and white plastic binding. http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/186693D...flingLayout.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/878692D...layScribing.jpg Even though I had read the tutorial on routing inlay cavities, for some reason I totally forgot to start by carefully routing the edges freehand and just started with the router base. As if that wasn't bad enough, I had a total brain fade when I realised the router bit was bigger than the cavity I needed to rout - and I went ahead and routed it anyway! I don't know what I was thinking, so now there are some pretty big gaps. Oh well, live and learn I guess. http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/877414D...GlueCloseUp.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/284498D...flingRout01.jpg Yes - my router table is the super deluxe model http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/976328D...flingRout02.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/44190DS...ed&Dyed.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/756646D...-ShinyBoard.jpg http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/210777D...gravingTest.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 Looks great mate!! just one thing : That Kelly body looks a tad small compared to a real Kelly, where did you get the kelly template? if you got them from guitarbuild.com, i'm afraid those plans come out rather small...i tell you this cuz i want to build a kelly too and printed those plans and they are unusable....i had tyo go to a friend of mine and trace his Kelly...anyways man, good luck! your work is impecable!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted March 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 I didn't use a template. I got a pic off the internet, then held up a ruler to the computer screen and carefully measured all the sides / angles / lengths. Then I realised my body blank was too small. The method I ended up using was to decide where to put all the points / corners and then to join them with similar curves to the real Kelly. I found the best way to draw smooth curves was to get a piece of thick plastic binding, and use some blu-tac to hold it in place. This will give you an aesthetically perfect curve every time. I don't know if you understand what I mean, but anyway - this time I will be making a template out of 12mm MDF and using a follower bit in my router to cut out the final body shape. Once again it will be slightly smaller than a real Kelly, which I don't mind at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGman Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 (edited) Hey metalwarrior, where did you get those woods from? + costs! Oh and NICE fretboard! Edited March 11, 2007 by RGman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGman Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 i think he means nato(although the picture looks more like bubinga)...bc rich uses it alot recently.nice sounding resonant wood...very "husky" in tone Nyatoh, Nato, Eastern Mahogany, all the same thing! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted March 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 Hey metalwarrior, where did you get those woods from? + costs! Oh and NICE fretboard! I am in the process of ruining the inlays with the engraving I printed out the skulls in all different sizes for gluing to the pearl and to get the pattern for the engraving. The original picture looks pretty badass IMO but when I did the engraving it just looks like the skull is smiling and having a good time - which doesn't fit the metal look I'm going for. I got the fingerboard blanks from a place in the city called FretCo ($40 each for the ebony and birds eye maple). I since realised StewMac sells slotted, radiused boards for less than half the price. FretCo doesn't sell woods for necks and bodies, but they recommended a place called Otto's which is off Magill Rd, Stepney (I think it's on Ann St.). The poplar bodies are $66, and the necks range from $40 to $70. All their neck woods are much longer than any other place I've seen. As for body woods, last time I was there they had a piece of mahogany that was about $130 as well as some woods I have never heard of. All the blanks were about the same dimensions, which is slightly smaller than you would need for a real Kelly or Flying V. If you head out that way, you might also want to check out a place on Magill Rd. called Mik International. They have high quality tools that you won't find at bunnings. That's where I got the ebony stain from. I also got some coloured dyes from there as well as Rustin's Plastic coating, which I will be using to finish the guitar. I bought this off eBay for AU$25 including postage Here is a pic of the shell I bought: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/559527DSCF1134-Pearl.jpg The pieces on the left were purchased from FretCo about 4 years ago, you can see the prices still on there. I got the other shell off eBay - 50 Pieces MOP (32 x 16 x 1.5) $30 & 100 Inches Paua Purfling (25 x 3.17 x 1.3) $41 I had some problems with some of the MOP splitting when I was cutting it, but since this is the first time I've used pearl I don't know if it was bad quality or if pearl always does that sort of thing. To do the entire fretboard took less than 10 pieces of the MOP & I still have more than half of the abalone left. The main expense is the tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tim_ado Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 dude i love that top and the shape so simple yet so effective Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RGman Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 Hey metalwarrior, where did you get those woods from? + costs! Oh and NICE fretboard! I am in the process of ruining the inlays with the engraving I printed out the skulls in all different sizes for gluing to the pearl and to get the pattern for the engraving. The original picture looks pretty badass IMO but when I did the engraving it just looks like the skull is smiling and having a good time - which doesn't fit the metal look I'm going for. I got the fingerboard blanks from a place in the city called FretCo ($40 each for the ebony and birds eye maple). I since realised StewMac sells slotted, radiused boards for less than half the price. FretCo doesn't sell woods for necks and bodies, but they recommended a place called Otto's which is off Magill Rd, Stepney (I think it's on Ann St.). The poplar bodies are $66, and the necks range from $40 to $70. All their neck woods are much longer than any other place I've seen. As for body woods, last time I was there they had a piece of mahogany that was about $130 as well as some woods I have never heard of. All the blanks were about the same dimensions, which is slightly smaller than you would need for a real Kelly or Flying V. If you head out that way, you might also want to check out a place on Magill Rd. called Mik International. They have high quality tools that you won't find at bunnings. That's where I got the ebony stain from. I also got some coloured dyes from there as well as Rustin's Plastic coating, which I will be using to finish the guitar. I bought this off eBay for AU$25 including postage Here is a pic of the shell I bought: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/559527DSCF1134-Pearl.jpg The pieces on the left were purchased from FretCo about 4 years ago, you can see the prices still on there. I got the other shell off eBay - 50 Pieces MOP (32 x 16 x 1.5) $30 & 100 Inches Paua Purfling (25 x 3.17 x 1.3) $41 I had some problems with some of the MOP splitting when I was cutting it, but since this is the first time I've used pearl I don't know if it was bad quality or if pearl always does that sort of thing. To do the entire fretboard took less than 10 pieces of the MOP & I still have more than half of the abalone left. The main expense is the tools. Thanks, those prices from fretco are wayyy to expencive for an unslotted board. I have never been to Otto's although i have been recomended to them before, what is their service like etc...? I will check out the tool shop, sounds great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted March 11, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 Thanks, those prices from fretco are wayyy to expencive for an unslotted board. I have never been to Otto's although i have been recomended to them before, what is their service like etc...? I will check out the tool shop, sounds great. I can't really comment on service. I look for what I want, if they have something suitable I buy it, if they don't I leave empty handed. I don't really know enough about the different woods to bother trying to order something else, when for all I know what they have might be even better than the more common woods. My next purchases will probably be off eBay. I know there is a lot of people from this forum who sell wood there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eddiewarlock Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 I didn't use a template. I got a pic off the internet, then held up a ruler to the computer screen and carefully measured all the sides / angles / lengths. Then I realised my body blank was too small. The method I ended up using was to decide where to put all the points / corners and then to join them with similar curves to the real Kelly. I found the best way to draw smooth curves was to get a piece of thick plastic binding, and use some blu-tac to hold it in place. This will give you an aesthetically perfect curve every time. I don't know if you understand what I mean, but anyway - this time I will be making a template out of 12mm MDF and using a follower bit in my router to cut out the final body shape. Once again it will be slightly smaller than a real Kelly, which I don't mind at all. Yup, very nice idea! and i miss blue tac so much! That's one thing i can't find in south america!! and very nice score with the MOP blanks, for 30 $ you got a LOT of shell, and i know how hard cutting pearl is, i am at the moment cutting BC Rich style large diamonds and it's a pain in the a*$ You're making me wanna start cutting the body blank for myt Kellyt! hehehe good work mate! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted March 11, 2007 Report Share Posted March 11, 2007 WOW! Nice Kelly dude, i dig a lot that Inlays, Abalone rocks! I want to see more of your work, congratuleishons! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted March 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 I was hoping to finish the engraving this weekend but it turned out to take longer than expected, and I had some trouble with it. I just need to do a bit more on the 19/21/24 frets, and some minor touch ups and then I should be done. The engraving filler doesn't seem that durable and will probably not last very long after some use. Here's a pic of frets 1 to 12: Here's 15-24 almost complete. I didn't make abalone eyes for these due to the small size, but I think they will look better in the end. http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/43853DS...-Unfinished.jpg This is after engraving but with no filler: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/812934D...ed-NoFiller.jpg These are some of the tools I experimented with: http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/92476DS...ravingTools.jpg This is what happens when you use ink and then cover with CA glue - it is virtually impossible to sand just the inlay without getting the board as well. Now I will have to re-dye the board which isn't such a big deal, but I would rather have avoided it. http://www.hugeuploads.net//images/952658D...ravedInlays.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DFW Posted March 18, 2007 Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 You were right, they look pretty ecstatic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dayvo Posted March 18, 2007 Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 Hey metalwarrior and RGman Apart from Ottos (where I got all my timber from) there is also this guy up at Hahndorf Ive been and had a look. He's got a lot of aussie timbers and a lot of unusual stuff from New Guinea I love the fretboard. Looks like its going to be a great looking guitar overall Which part of Adelaide do you guys hail from? dayvo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted March 18, 2007 Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 Very nice inlay work! A tip on filling the engraving (from a fellow newb, but still): ink the lines with a pen (the kind you dip in an inkwell, india ink works well), apply the CA with a very, very fine pipette, and then sand off the excess using 400 or even 600 grit on the inlay only. Wrap around a small eraser, even a pencil eraser, and go slow, and you should be fine. I've considered using CA with a brush to minimize the amount that goes on there, but I haven't tested that theory yet. Then buff the entire board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
metalwarrior Posted March 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 Very nice inlay work! A tip on filling the engraving (from a fellow newb, but still): ink the lines with a pen (the kind you dip in an inkwell, india ink works well), apply the CA with a very, very fine pipette, and then sand off the excess using 400 or even 600 grit on the inlay only. Wrap around a small eraser, even a pencil eraser, and go slow, and you should be fine. I've considered using CA with a brush to minimize the amount that goes on there, but I haven't tested that theory yet. Then buff the entire board. Stewmac have just brought out some CA glue that comes with a brush which I will probably try in the future. I did try some india ink but it was all lumpy which is why I went with the airbrush ink instead. I will try wrapping around the sandpaper on an eraser. Thanks for all the tips. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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