skelf Posted April 28, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 Jason One thing to keep in mind with any spalted wood is how far along in the decay process the wood is. To far along and the wood is very soft and pulpy which makes it very hard to work with. Also make sure you wear a mask whenever you work with it as the dust which contains the fungus that causes the spalting can really muck up your lungs. Same with any wood dust but complicated by the fungus in the wood. Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dudz Posted April 28, 2008 Report Share Posted April 28, 2008 These have to be some of the most beautiful pieces of would I have ever seen. Great job with al of you're builds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted April 29, 2008 Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 Thanks for the suggestions and tips. I've read up a bit in the past on working with spalted woods (which is why I haven't tried beech yet) and I've seen a few ways to improve the stability like having it impregnated with acrlyic as one known wood vendor does and I see you've used this process before as well. If I go through Gilmer for the wood, I know that they can be of great help in choosing pieces for luthier work, so I would get as solid a piece as possible and then see what I could do with epoxy or CA to stabilize it further if need be. The fungus thing has always worried me, I am fairly careful about protection and always wear my mask. I'm allergic to dang near everything that an allergy test can test for, so I always try to be extra careful when working with wood. Again, I thank you for all the help and suggestions, please post some more pictures as you finish it and maybe some more info on how working with it was. Best of luck and keep up the excellent work. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted April 29, 2008 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2008 The last of this batch to be started. First 4 string single cut. Amboyna top mahogany core with a flame sycamore back. 5 piece maple/mac ebony neck with an Ebony finger board. 2 RFB with the ACG EQ01 pre-amp. More pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Just about underway with my second 9 string. The spec on this one is just a little bit different from my usual basses. Set-neck 35" scale Swamp ash body Black veneer Mahogany top Swamp ash cavity cover 7 piece maple/wenge neck Acrylicised spalted fingerboard from Larry At Gallery HArdwoods 24 frets Mahogany headplate Wenge backplate Black headstock veneer 77mm at nut Flat fingerboard radius M.O.P. side dots No front dots HARDWARE Hipshot Type A bridge fitted with piezos Hipshot Ultralite tuners Black hardware ELECTRONICS ACG pickups ACG Pre-amp Ghost PE-0340-00 Acousti-Phonic mono/stereo bass preamp CONTROLS ACG Pre - Volume/balance stack knob ACG Pre - Filter/peak stack knob ACG Pre - Treble stack ACG Pre - Filter/peak stack knob 2 way mini toggle switch - Controlling bridge pickup - Series / Parallel 2 way mini toggle switch - Controlling neck pickup - Series / Parallel Ghost PE-0111-00 Quickswitch (for Acoustic-phonic pre) 3 position switch which selects between magnetic / piezo / or both Ghost PE-0206-00 Push/push mid boost volume control OUTPUTS Stereo 1/4" output John East XLR output More pics I am just waiting for all the hardware to arrive to work out the control cavity to make sure all the bits will fit in. Cheers Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted May 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 8, 2008 Another new build just about to get started on this one. This is a Skelf 5 string. Spec White Limba body with a Native Walnut top usual black veneer. Wenge/Maple 5 string neck with a Mac Ebony board 33" scale tuned E to C. ACG FB pickups with a matching ramp in between. ACG EQ02 pre-amp. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted May 15, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 15, 2008 Just got this one finished and of to it's new home in the US. One piece Amboyna Burl with sapwood front and back with a Mahogany core and black accent veneers. Maple/wenge 5 piece neck with an excellent Acrylic impregnated spalted Maple fingerboard supplied By Larry at Gallery. Head-plate Amboyna back-plate Wenge, heel Wenge and a Wenge control cover. ACG FB pickups with coil switching. ACG filter pre-amp with 18 volt option. Finish 60/20 More pics Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted May 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 I was cutting scarf joints today and use a simple jig on my bandsaw. This set gives me the 15º angle I use with my bass headstocks. This is the neck for the redwood bass 7 piece mac ebony/maple/black limba. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted May 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 Neck now fitted and carved along with the body contours just waiting for the pickups to sort out the cavities. Some more work done on various basses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted May 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 I have now got the neck fitted and carved and the pickup routes done. The neck needs to be finish sanded and the fret work done then it is off to get the LED's fitted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted May 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2008 A bit more done on this bass. The neck has been fitted and carved and the pickup cavities done. Some more work done on various basses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted June 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 Wood work just about done on this one just a pile of sanding to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Supernova9 Posted June 2, 2008 Report Share Posted June 2, 2008 As usual, beautiful work, lovely woods and really clean construction. I'm absolutely loving the sapwood on the amboyna burl piece! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Thank you very much. I am a big fan of using sapwood for contrast when possible. One I have been working on when I get time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Preeeeety! Burls are a personal favorite of mine. What pitfalls have you found in working with them? I have a burled redwood top I'll be working with in the very near future and any wisdom would be great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Burl is a wicked wood type to work with because grain goes everywhere except straight! Sharp sharp sharp tools and no actions that might cause tear or digging else you'll invariably end up with bits missing :-\ Steady as she goes, Caption! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Also working on the Redwood Recurve at the same time. Redwood is quiet bad for tear out as it is a soft wood to start with. Sharp tools are essential and it also helps when routing to have a long hard look at the grain direction especially on horns or any tight curves as this is where tear out is most likely to happen. Redwood also is hard work to finish as it is very porous and will drink in finish. I sealed this one with epoxy which hardened the wood and pore filled at the same time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Thanks for the info. The piece I have feels downtight spongey compared to the other woods I have lying around. It's about 1/4" thick, but I don't think I'd have any problem snapping it with just stiff finger pressure. Since it's so soft AND with no real grain direction, I should take itty-bitty bites with the router? All I'm figuring to do with it is shape the body, give the edges a roundover, and the basic pup routes. By the time I can do any of that, the micro-plane drill-press thingy will be in, so maybe I should use it for the shaping instead of the router. SKELF & PROSTHETA: When the time somes, is it OK if I PM you for input? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Same rules as always apply - just take your time with your work and plan your cuts. When doing roundovers, it's a good idea to take bits at a time by gradually lowering the bit each pass. Half depth first pass, 3/4 second and so on. The closer you get to full depth, the more chance the bit has of grabbing material out. Create a thread for your build so it can all be shared rather than PM I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted June 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 Feel free to get in touch. The thread above certainly covers doing the roundover. I lower the bit down very gradually and it is important to buy a good router bit for this job and type of wood. I use the CMT ones they are not cheap but are the best I have found to date. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bmth Builder Posted June 19, 2008 Report Share Posted June 19, 2008 One of the nicest colour schemes I've ever seen!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted June 20, 2008 Report Share Posted June 20, 2008 Feel free to get in touch. The thread above certainly covers doing the roundover. I lower the bit down very gradually and it is important to buy a good router bit for this job and type of wood. I use the CMT ones they are not cheap but are the best I have found to date. I agree totally about the quality of CMT bits. I won't settle for less now unless CMT don't do what I need. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted June 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 Pick the fingerboard time. From the top. Mac Ebony for Finn. Indian Ebony for Andrew's guitar. Indian Ebony for Peter. Acrylic impregnated Zebrano for Paul. Acrylic impregnated Spalted Maple for Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
travismoore Posted June 25, 2008 Report Share Posted June 25, 2008 Wow the Mac Ebony and Acrylic impregnated Spalted Maple look amazing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skelf Posted July 27, 2008 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2008 Recurve in Camphor burl. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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