fookgub Posted July 30, 2007 Report Share Posted July 30, 2007 (edited) Ok, this is my second "new" project for today. It's a superstrat-type guitar (mostly a copy of a yamaha pacifica) with Line 6 Variax electronics. I've got a ton of pictures here, so let's just get to it. First, a couple templates. I decided on the square heel, against popular opinion. What can I say? I just liked the look better. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/aanj1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/aanj2.jpg And a preview of the finish I'm going after. I've never done a burst before, or a dyed or translucent finish. It will be a learning experience. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/Clipboard10.jpg The body wood. Soft maple from Fine Lumber in Austin. Great stuff... they have tons of it, and it's cheap. Looks good, and machines well, too. I got a local guy to run the boards through his jointer for me. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-wood.jpg My router thicknessing jig in action. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-thicknessing.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-thicknessing2.jpg Cutting out the shape on the bandsaw, followed by drum sanding, and routing. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-drawing.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-bandsawed.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-shaped.jpg Doing the roundover. I used 1/4". http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-roundover.jpg Control cavity for the variax electronics. The circuit board mounts to standoffs that will go in the holes in the third picture. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-controlcavity1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-controlcavity2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-controlcavity3.jpg Scalloping the neck joint. This part still needs some work. I've had trouble getting the carve to flow smoothly. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-neckjoint1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-neckjoint2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-neckjoint3.jpg Here's what the Variax bridge looked like. I removed that flex circuit later. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-bridge.jpg String retainer. Made from 1/2" by 1/8" spring steel. I'm never going back to ferrules. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-retainer.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-retainer2.jpg Fitting the pickguard. I didn't take any pictures of making the pickguard. It went really fast, though, and I'm very happy with how it came out. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-pickguardfit.jpg Belly and forearm carves. Roughed them out with an angle grinder, then cleaned up with a rasp and sandpaper. I really like this method of carving. I did both in under two hours. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-carves1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-carves2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-carves3.jpg Controls installed in the pickguard. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-controllayout.jpg Shielding the pickguard. I'm trying to get away from copper tape because I think it's a pain. Aluminum foil was much easier. I'm going to try conductive paint when it comes time to shield the body. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-pgshielding1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-pgshielding2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-pgshielding3.jpg Installing the jack. This one had me stumped for a while. I really didn't want to rout that hole in the back, but I could figure no other way to do it with my tools. The jack for the Variax is about 3" deep. It came out fine in the end, I suppose. I used a rasp to get the cutout right. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-jack1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-jack2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-jack3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-jack4.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-jack5.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-jack6.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-jack7.jpg Installing the electronics. Notice I removed and moved the flex circuit. I also had to lengthen almost all of the wires in the wiring harness. The circuit came out of a lefty guitar, and both the tone and volume pots worked backwards. I fixed that by flipping the modular connectors on both pots end-for-end. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-eleinstall1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-eleinstall2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-eleinstall3.jpg And here it is in it's current state. Much to my relief, the electronics work fine, and it sounds pretty good. I'm going to buy the Workbench software pretty soon so I can mess around with the models and tunings. I like it so far, though. The strats sound like strats, teles like teles, and so on. Some of the models sound a little generic, but I'm hoping I can tweak them more to my liking once I get this thing hooked up to my computer. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-testfit1.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-testfit2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-testfit3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-testfit4.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-testfit5.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-testfit6.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-testfit7.jpg Edited July 30, 2007 by fookgub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ElysianGuitars Posted July 31, 2007 Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 i like your string retainer block, though i personally would drill some wider holes just deep enough for the ball end to fit in, so they don't stick out. nice execution on this project, i like the end results. the pickguard rules. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Share Posted July 31, 2007 i like your string retainer block, though i personally would drill some wider holes just deep enough for the ball end to fit in, so they don't stick out. nice execution on this project, i like the end results. the pickguard rules. Thanks for the comments! I really dig the pickguard, too. I can't believe how expensive pearloid is compared to everything else! I know what you mean about the string retainer, but I'm going to leave it as is. The bar is recessed, so the balls don't poke me or grab my clothing, and I sort of like the look of them exposed. Anyway, I spent a while playing it yesterday, and I have a couple comments about the Variax system. First, this thing is freaking quiet (with regard to noise). Much quieter than any of my other guitars, including my EMG's. I haven't even shielded the control cavity yet, but TV and light dimmers are not audible at all. Amazing! Also, I need to get the workbench software. I like many of the models as they are, but the strat is too polite for me. They modelled a vintage strat, but I want more of a Texas Special tone, which I think the workbench software will let me do. Alternate tuning would be fun, too. I'm looking to break it down this weekend or early next week to start the finishing process. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted October 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 27, 2007 Burst is done! I'm spraying barrier coats of shellac right now. I'll spray until I can sand it perfectly flat, then I'm going to do about 6 coats of conversion varnish. If everything stays on schedule (which never happens), I'll be spraying the top coats next weekend. Anyway, this is my first burst. I'm sure my next one will be better, but I'm very pleased with how it turned out. This was taken in direct sunlight. It's a little more red under normal light. What do y'all think? Front: Back: http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-burst2.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DougK Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 I dig it, I like the 2 colors quite a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digideus Posted October 28, 2007 Report Share Posted October 28, 2007 Very nice job! Cant wait to see it finished! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 5, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 5, 2007 Thanks for the comments, guys. That picture is not the best... it's a little out of focus, which obscures some of the intersting stuff that's going on in the wood. Also, the colors aren't quite right. They have a little more contrast and a more gradual transition zone than the pictures shows. Anyway, I finished the clear coats today. I'll start buffing at the end of the week and will hopefully be playing the thing towards the end of next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hector Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 I love the pacifica shape. makes me want to build one. where did you get that pickguard? nice job Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 (edited) I love the pacifica shape. makes me want to build one. where did you get that pickguard? nice job I have a Pacifica, so the body, headstock, and pickguard are all copied from that guitar. I bought the pickguard blank from Stewmac, and it's big enough to make two pickguards. I would like to add Strat pickups to this guitar at some point, so the extra pickguard material may come in handy. I like the Pacifica shape a lot, too. It sort of walks the line between normal strats and superstrats. Not as bulky as a Fender, but not as edgy as an Ibanez. Anyway, I'm sticking pretty close to schedule on the guitar. I'll probably have to push the buffing out to early next week, as I'm planing to assemble my Tonemaster this weekend. Buffing takes about 4 days the way I do it (using micromesh papers and taking my time). Not the fastest way to do things, but it's pretty much idiot-proof. Assembly should go quickly after that... I'm planning on about four hours. Edited November 8, 2007 by fookgub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 Well, this one never got put together. I had major problems with the finish. I don't know exactly what happened, but I have a couple guesses. The finish developed a couple serious cracks after about a week (before I even went to buff it). This news is about a month and a half old... I needed some time to think before I posted my plans for the guitar. I've decided to sand off the finish and redo it when the weather warms up. I'm going to use lacquer this time instead of the Sherwin-Williams stuff. I hope Wes and everyone else who used/is using the conversion varnish has better luck than me. Since I'll be working on it anyway, I've decided to add Strat pickups. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Here are some pictures of what happened. When I put the guitar up to cure it was virtually flawless. After a week it had started to develop some light cracking. I started wetsanding it anyway, thinking that I would put it together temporarily and refinish it in the spring. The cracking got progressively worse over the next few days until I didn't even want to put it together. Notice how the clear has pulled away from all sharp edges, dragging the color coat with it. This was most apparent in the heel area, but it happened all over the guitar. I have a couple theories about what happened. First, using shellac as a base was unwise. I don't think shellac is compatible with this stuff. Second, I think I applied too much varnish too quickly. I applied three heavy coats per day, one hour apart, and sanding between the coats. I did this for two consecutive days (six total coats), which resulted in a very thick build. I think the first few coats of CV didn't get a chance to cure well enough. There are some pinholes in one of the pictures. Also, I think that I simply built too much clear. The total thickness was much thicker than the lacquer jobs I've done before, and also thicker than the manufacturer's recommendation. There were a couple things I really liked about the CV. It levels beautifully (I level sanded the guitar starting with 1000 grit, and it only took about 45 minutes). It cures hard and clear, and it cures quickly. For now, though, I'm going back to lacquer. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-cracked2.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-cracked3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-cracked4.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-cracked5.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-cracked6.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vanhorton Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 man, thats a shame with the paint. i hope it comes out better the next time you coat it, i really like the colors though! the neck scallop almost looks like its rusting its weird. but anyway, you do some really nice work, those routs are so clean, did you drill the hole slightly shallower than you needed and then just finished them with a router? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted November 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2008 Refinished! Colors are a little wacky, as usual. I just can't seem to get realistic looking colors with this camera. But you get the idea. The last picture looks the closest on my monitor. Front Back Back Side Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guerrilla Radio Posted November 9, 2008 Report Share Posted November 9, 2008 Refinished! Colors are a little wacky, as usual. I just can't seem to get realistic looking colors with this camera. But you get the idea. The last picture looks the closest on my monitor. Front Back Back Side Beautiful. Nice work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted November 9, 2008 Report Share Posted November 9, 2008 Glad to see it refinished, looks great. I had a similar problem with CV, and when I stripped it, it was built up really thick. The stuff definitely, can't be laid on too thick. I used it in thinner coats on my work bench and the result has been just fine so far. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted November 9, 2008 Report Share Posted November 9, 2008 Looks a lot better now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted May 17, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2009 Finally (almost) done! Only thing left to do is make a cover for the jack cavity. I probably won't get to that for a quite a while, so this is as done as it's getting for now. This project got backburnered in a big way, and at one point I wasn't even sure I would ever finish it. I wasn't really happy with the neck I built for it, so I ended up ordering one from Carvin just to get the project finished up. Now that it's done, I'm actually very happy with it. Lots of sounds are available, and with the right settings it sounds quite convincing. The other neck is getting reworked and will end up on a different guitar eventually. http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/variax-done-3.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/variax-done-4.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/variax-done-6.jpg http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/variax-done-7.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thirdstone Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 Nice job, Must be an intresting guitar to play. Congrats Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maiden69 Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 That turned out very nice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erikbojerik Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 I would be a bit worried about the neck pocket - not much meat between the neck plate and the heel. Could have kept it thicker tapering toward the middle of the body and used neck screw ferrules instead of a neck plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted May 18, 2009 Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 I haven't had time to look thru your pics yet, but I am very interested in doing a Variax transplant project, so any thorough information on the topic is most appreciated. I found Jeff Miller's website, which is pretty good, but any additional input helps. It looks really great btw, excellent burst job there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fookgub Posted May 18, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 18, 2009 (edited) Thanks for the comments, guys! Drak - The Variax system is not too hard to deal with. The connectors are all keyed, so you don't have to worry about connecting things wrong. The are a few loose wires to deal with, but as long as you make a note of how things go together when you're disassembling it, you won't have any trouble putting it back together. The one gotcha is the flex circuit that connects the piezos to the mainboard. If you decide to move it from the bridge baseplate, you will need to solder longer wires to it (see this picture: http://users.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/vax-eleinstall1.jpg). Soldering to flex can be a bit tricky. You have to be careful not to overheat the board. Make sure you don't swap any of the channels because the guitar may not sound right if you do. The flex circuit can be inserted into the connector on the mainboard in either the up or down direction. This is very helpful when moving the flex circuit, but again, you have to make a note of what goes where so you can put it back together right. One other Variax gotcha is the power supply. The Line 6 guitars have the option of using 6 AA batteries when mains power is not available. Unfortunately, you don't get much runtime, and the battery compartment is, in my opinion, ugly and poorly designed. I just left it out, which means the guitar is useless without the external power supply, but it's one less battery mucher. Power is supplied on the ring terminal of a standard 1/4" stereo cable, so there's no requirement for a separate power cable. Also, if you buy a lefty Variax like I did (usually cheaper), you will need to flip the connectors on the volume, tone, and model pots, and insert the flex connector for the piezos upside down. Erik - I was a little concerned about the neck joint, too. It wasn't supposed to be that thin, but I accidentally sanded it down when I was stripping the guitar for refinishing. It seems to be holding up so far, though, so hopefully it will be all right. It does afford very comfortable upper fret access. Anyway, I'm really digging the stainless steel fretwire on the neck. Very smooth feeling, and it's reassuring to know how slowly it will wear. I'm planning to start using SS wire on all my new necks. Here is a picture of the guitar hooked up to my computer for some patch editing. Note the 1/4" cable (necessary for power and output to an amp) and the network cable for hooking up to the computer (via the Line 6 USB interface). And in case anyone is wondering... yes, that is indeed a 13-year old Duke Nukem mousepad (came with the Atomic Pack, IIRC) http://www.ece.utexas.edu/~wrobert/duke-mousepad.jpg Edited May 18, 2009 by fookgub Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StormLeader Posted May 19, 2009 Report Share Posted May 19, 2009 Hahah, I have the same mouse pad laying around here somewhere Looks great! (The guitar that is ) -Stormy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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