Rick500 Posted July 31, 2007 Report Posted July 31, 2007 I started cutting down the graphite nut blank for my strat project a couple days ago. Of all the things I've done on this build and had no trouble with, I never would have thought that cutting the nut slot flat would give me any problems, but it's been a pain. I'm trying to cut a flat-bottomed 1/8" nut slot for a Fender style nut. It looks flat, the walls of the slot look perpendicular to the bottom, and the bottom of the nut itself is flat, but I can't seem to get everything adjusted so that no gaps appear under the nut from both sides of the fretboard. I'm using a StewMac 1/8" nut slot file. Is there a trick to this that I'm not getting? Is there a better way to file the slot completely flat that I haven't thought of? Next build is using a Gibson style nut, so I probably won't have to worry about it again, but I'd like to conquer it. Quote
Mattia Posted July 31, 2007 Report Posted July 31, 2007 File with slow, even strokes, in a single direction, checking with s straightedge if possible. There's always the 'glue sandpaper to a nut blank or dummy nut blank' technique... Quote
thegarehanman Posted July 31, 2007 Report Posted July 31, 2007 If you can't get it perfect with a file, use a candle to wax all surfaces of the nut blank, fill the nut slot with epoxy that's been tinted to match your fretboard wood, then press the waxed nut blank into the nut slot and wipe away any excess epoxy. Make sure you do a test run with the epoxy to make sure the variety you're using dries very hard, because if it doesn't, you don't want to even think about using it. Once the epoxy has set, you can use a pliers to gently persuade the nut out of the slot. After you remove the nut, sand the epoxy down so it's level with the fretboard. Another option is using a radial arm saw, sliding miter saw, or table saw (and jig). Carbide tipped circular saw blades have a 1/8" kerf. peace, russ Quote
WezV Posted July 31, 2007 Report Posted July 31, 2007 i'm with mattia - slow even strokes in one direction will work best Quote
White Summer Posted July 31, 2007 Report Posted July 31, 2007 i used a miter box, and we got it perfect in a matter of seconds Quote
Rick500 Posted July 31, 2007 Author Report Posted July 31, 2007 Thanks for the suggestions, guys. I'll try the "carefully file in one direction only" approach and see if I can get it done. Unfortunately, the neck is already shaped, so a miter box would be difficult. I don't know why I didn't cut the nut slot to its finished dimensions when I cut the fret slots. Lesson learned. Quote
soapbarstrat Posted July 31, 2007 Report Posted July 31, 2007 Last time I wanted a flat bottom slot on a strat style neck, I routed it that way with a dremel with a special jig I made clamped on the neck. But I like curved bottomed slots better. I like the detail of making a perfect radius bottom on a nut blank to match the radiused nut slot. If someone was selling strat style necks and I found out they have flat bottomed nut slots, I would never buy one, unless they were sold at a "factory second" price. Quote
jaycee Posted August 2, 2007 Report Posted August 2, 2007 I like curved bottomed slots better. I like the detail of making a perfect radius bottom on a nut blank to match the radiused nut slot. Is this a personal thing like knowing everything is curved and uniform even though (as in the case of the base of the nut) you can not see it, or do you think it alters the sound in any way. Quote
Rick500 Posted August 2, 2007 Author Report Posted August 2, 2007 I don't see why there would be a difference in perceived quality between a flat or radiused nut slot, as long as it's a good fit. To each his own though. Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 3, 2007 Report Posted August 3, 2007 There's usually part of the t-rod under the nut slot on a fender style neck, which is part of my reason. Quote
Rick500 Posted August 3, 2007 Author Report Posted August 3, 2007 Ah, I see. Hadn't considered that. Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 3, 2007 Report Posted August 3, 2007 Actually I should have been more specific than that, and said there's usually a T-rod anchor or adjustment nut right under the nut slot. Also, maybe the curve of the T-rod makes it higher in that area too ? And then having that thin ledge on the tuner side of the nut. That ledge becomes a weaker piece of wood, the deeper the nut slot. Quote
Setch Posted August 3, 2007 Report Posted August 3, 2007 I thought the trussrod anchor on a strat was well clear of the nut slot? http://www.guitarrepairshop.com/repairtrussrod.html Quote
soapbarstrat Posted August 3, 2007 Report Posted August 3, 2007 Apparently so. I once re-boarded an early 80's that might have had the anchor closer to the nut slot, but who knows. Easier to know what's going on with the rod going the other way : http://usera.imagecave.com/soapbarstrat/bi-flex1.jpg Quote
Rick500 Posted August 3, 2007 Author Report Posted August 3, 2007 Incidentally, the guitar I'm building and asked the question about, has a different arrangement. I'm using a StewMac Hot Rod, accessed through the headstock. Quote
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