fyb Posted October 13, 2007 Report Share Posted October 13, 2007 Hey all! I finally stepped up to a decent jointer (the 6" Ridgid they've got at Home Depot) and I just put it all together. The tables came greased and I was wondering if this was just for packaging/shipping, or should the tables be prepped somehow? Should I just wipe off the grease? I thought I read somewhere that you should protect your tables from rust with some sort of coating I just can't remember the specifics at the moment. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmrentis Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 (edited) I can't say for certain as I haven't gotten myself a jointer yet, however, when I bought my bandsaw the tables and certain other parts were covered in what they called packing grease or export grease I believe. The directions mention using a citrus degreaser made by the same company, which won't damage the tables and is not flammable. Is there nothing mentioned in the directions? Again, I don't know that what you have is the same as what came on my bandsaw tables, but it might be, wait and see what someone who has a jointer says. The grease that came on the bandsaw tables is meant to keep them protected from rust during the shipping process and needs to be fully removed from all parts that have it prior to any use. So, make certain of what the stuff is before trying anything. Best of luck and congrats on your purchase. J Edited October 14, 2007 by jmrentis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 Hey all! I finally stepped up to a decent jointer (the 6" Ridgid they've got at Home Depot) and I just put it all together. The tables came greased and I was wondering if this was just for packaging/shipping, or should the tables be prepped somehow? Should I just wipe off the grease? I thought I read somewhere that you should protect your tables from rust with some sort of coating I just can't remember the specifics at the moment. Any tips would be greatly appreciated! Thats the equivalent of cosmoline. It's used to protect it from rust during shipping. Use some mineral spirits and clean it off then your good to go. MK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rick500 Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 My Jet jointer was all lubed up too when I got it. The manual said the rust-protected parts should be cleaned with kerosene, so that's what I used. Then I put some Boeshield on it (that stuff works great). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyb Posted October 14, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 Thanks guys! I fired it up this morning it works pretty well though the blades need sharpening. The tables were nice and flat and the induction motor was much quieter than my old crappy bench top jointer! That thing is a toy compared to this I've got one more question though ... do jointer blades usually need sharpened when new? When I bought my planer about a year ago the blades were all set to go so I was hoping it'd be the same with the jointer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
verhoevenc Posted October 14, 2007 Report Share Posted October 14, 2007 (edited) Your best bet is to firstly remove that stuff with almost any solvent, mineral spirits, alcohol, naphtha, or Goo-Gone citrus stuff. THEN, to keep the help against rust, but not goo up the table, get Johnson's Paste Wax. Rub the table down with the stuff leaving a thin film on top. Let it dry, and then rub it off. What this is doing is filling the pores on the table. Cast iron is very porous, and by filling them with this stuff you're stopping moisture from sitting in those pores, which is almost always where the rust will start! Also, by whipping it down again after it's dried you're taking it off the surface so that the surface is still slick and good for use. Hope that helps. Chris PS: You blades SHOULD be nice and sharp and ready for use. I've had my jointer almost a year (although I'm rarely there to use it) and last I used it they were still sharp enough to joint CURLY PINK IVORY, so not only hard, but FIGURED, without a single tearout. Edited October 14, 2007 by verhoevenc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MiKro Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Your best bet is to firstly remove that stuff with almost any solvent, mineral spirits, alcohol, naphtha, or Goo-Gone citrus stuff. THEN, to keep the help against rust, but not goo up the table, get Johnson's Paste Wax. Rub the table down with the stuff leaving a thin film on top. Let it dry, and then rub it off. What this is doing is filling the pores on the table. Cast iron is very porous, and by filling them with this stuff you're stopping moisture from sitting in those pores, which is almost always where the rust will start! Also, by whipping it down again after it's dried you're taking it off the surface so that the surface is still slick and good for use. Hope that helps. Chris PS: You blades SHOULD be nice and sharp and ready for use. I've had my jointer almost a year (although I'm rarely there to use it) and last I used it they were still sharp enough to joint CURLY PINK IVORY, so not only hard, but FIGURED, without a single tearout. LMAO!!! ANOTHER Johnsons Paste wax fan. Have a can that is many many years old that is used only for the tools. I now take the palm sander after the wax dries and fold up a paper towel and polish the tops of my tablesaw, sander tables and bandsaw table.LOL:) Man does a piece of maple fly across that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Posted October 16, 2007 Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Man, I need to try some of that stuff out. It sounds exactly like what my power tools are missing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyb Posted October 16, 2007 Author Report Share Posted October 16, 2007 Your best bet is to firstly remove that stuff with almost any solvent, mineral spirits, alcohol, naphtha, or Goo-Gone citrus stuff. THEN, to keep the help against rust, but not goo up the table, get Johnson's Paste Wax. Rub the table down with the stuff leaving a thin film on top. Let it dry, and then rub it off. What this is doing is filling the pores on the table. Cast iron is very porous, and by filling them with this stuff you're stopping moisture from sitting in those pores, which is almost always where the rust will start! Also, by whipping it down again after it's dried you're taking it off the surface so that the surface is still slick and good for use. Hope that helps. Chris PS: You blades SHOULD be nice and sharp and ready for use. I've had my jointer almost a year (although I'm rarely there to use it) and last I used it they were still sharp enough to joint CURLY PINK IVORY, so not only hard, but FIGURED, without a single tearout. LMAO!!! ANOTHER Johnsons Paste wax fan. Have a can that is many many years old that is used only for the tools. I now take the palm sander after the wax dries and fold up a paper towel and polish the tops of my tablesaw, sander tables and bandsaw table.LOL:) Man does a piece of maple fly across that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! MK I'm gonna try that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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