PTU 7's. Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 (edited) I searched info about this process, how it's done and if it change the tonal properties of the wood. And I found this: http://www.bassnutz.com/showthread.php?t=2017 I think that's an amazing idea for spalted tops that are very fragile, or other woods that are very figured. You can sand it withour problem? And what about the finish options, can you use poly laquer? Another thing, where can I get this wood? Frank. Edited November 6, 2007 by PTU 7's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aidlook Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Wouldn't it be a good idea to ask the guy on that forum that is actually making the stuff? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 6, 2007 Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 yeah, ask larry!! i have used it a few times and love the stuff. The spalted top i making at the moment is acrylized and it makes life a whole lot easier. It also let me make a fretless bass with a maple fretboard earlier this year. Ask larry, but ask him sensible questions - he is a busy man!! you apparently cannot lacquer it but you can buff it to a shine and he can do colours for you You found the ingo on the gallery hardwoods section of the bassnutz site soi suggest you go to www.galleryhardwoods.com for larrys email Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted November 6, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 6, 2007 Perfect, I'll mail Larry and ask for prices and wood avalabiliy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 I searched info about this process, how it's done and if it change the tonal properties of the wood. And I found this: http://www.bassnutz.com/showthread.php?t=2017 I think that's an amazing idea for spalted tops that are very fragile, or other woods that are very figured. You can sand it withour problem? And what about the finish options, can you use poly laquer? Another thing, where can I get this wood? Frank. http://www.minwax.com/products/woodmaint/hardener.cfm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 thats not going to have the complete penetration like larry's process does Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
low end fuzz Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 if you cant finish it ; how do you ..... finish it? do you mask it off, or do you just spray it and flake it off? if you scuff it and it dosent have silicone or oils why wouldnt a film finish stick; i know; ask larry; but i'll try this first Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 7, 2007 Report Share Posted November 7, 2007 you can buff it to a high shine. Larry says not to lacquer it but i must confess i ignored that and used rusitns plastic coating on it the first time i used it - it worked well but no garantees. Larry reckoned the plastic coating must have had better luck bonding to the acrylic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guitar2005 Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 (edited) thats not going to have the complete penetration like larry's process does I guess the goal is to harden a wood that would be otherwise too soft to use. I have this problem with the black limba top on my explorer project. It looks great but is way soft. I'm currently looking for way to make that wood a little more resistant to dents and scratches. That's why I was looking into the Minwax wood hardener or maybe this: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...cat=1,190,42997 Its liquid epoxy and I think that the black limba is porous enough to soak it up. All I need is to harden the wood somewhat. If the black limba doesn't get soaked up in its entirety, that's not an issue for me. Anyways, I just thought I'd present it as an alternative. Of course, Larry's method and process looks pretty heavy duty. I hope he's got a patent on that. Edited November 8, 2007 by guitar2005 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 thats not going to have the complete penetration like larry's process does It will on a cap.You can also use ca glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 here is the equipment larry uses for impregnating and curing the wood - its a bit more than brushing on some hardener so i would be interested to see how far that actually penetrates the wood you get from Larry is already fully imprenated with his acrylic solution so you can cut and carve it without finding raw wood this is the fretless bass board i did. Maple would normally be unsuitable for a fretless but this process makes it comparable to ebony - or even harder!! Alan (Skelf) also uses it for this. It still feels like wood so i prefer it to the epoxy method sometiems used to coat fretless boards This bass top was also from larry. I mainly wanted it for the colour and it made finishing a hell of a lot easier. You can see there was no problem with the colour (and therefore the acrylic solution) penetrating all the way through the wood. also its clear that the acrylic does nothing to hide the figure when used in this way I havnt used that minwax stuff and it has perked my interest - particularly for dent resistance on solid bodies rather than just tops and fretboards where the acrylised stuff from larry is so usefull. oh - the spalt top guitar i am making at the moment is also acrylised and so much easier to work than the other spalt top i have recently finished Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted November 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 Holly sh, Wez. That fretboard and the top look amazing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 larry has some good wood!!! one tip though - larry seems to prefer dealing with people that know what they want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 8, 2007 Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 Not test pilots or tyres kickers :-D I bought some ziricote for my wife's fingerboard as I wanted it sappy across one edge. Gem of a guy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted November 8, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 8, 2007 I will ask for some top woods for a project that i have in mind. It's expensive? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 I dont think its to badly priced at all - larrys wood is very fairly priced. Its certainly not cheap but the quality is excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mattia Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Larry's very fair in terms of pricing, and you're certain to get quality when you order from him. True fact. It's not cheap, but you get what you pay for: instrument grade wood that's dry and ready to use. He's one of the few vendors I feel fully confident ordering (for example) spalt maple sets from for acoustic guitar back/side use (have a couple coming my way soon...). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PTU 7's. Posted November 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 Thanks for asking. Now that I know, I will buy some stuff in the future. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Prostheta Posted November 9, 2007 Report Share Posted November 9, 2007 "Have in mind"...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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