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Acrylized Wood


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I searched info about this process, how it's done and if it change the tonal properties of the wood. And I found this:

http://www.bassnutz.com/showthread.php?t=2017

I think that's an amazing idea for spalted tops that are very fragile, or other woods that are very figured.

You can sand it withour problem? And what about the finish options, can you use poly laquer?

Another thing, where can I get this wood?

Frank.

Edited by PTU 7's.
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yeah, ask larry!!

i have used it a few times and love the stuff. The spalted top i making at the moment is acrylized and it makes life a whole lot easier. It also let me make a fretless bass with a maple fretboard earlier this year.

Ask larry, but ask him sensible questions - he is a busy man!!

you apparently cannot lacquer it but you can buff it to a shine and he can do colours for you

You found the ingo on the gallery hardwoods section of the bassnutz site soi suggest you go to www.galleryhardwoods.com for larrys email

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I searched info about this process, how it's done and if it change the tonal properties of the wood. And I found this:

http://www.bassnutz.com/showthread.php?t=2017

I think that's an amazing idea for spalted tops that are very fragile, or other woods that are very figured.

You can sand it withour problem? And what about the finish options, can you use poly laquer?

Another thing, where can I get this wood?

Frank.

http://www.minwax.com/products/woodmaint/hardener.cfm

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you can buff it to a high shine.

Larry says not to lacquer it but i must confess i ignored that and used rusitns plastic coating on it the first time i used it - it worked well but no garantees. Larry reckoned the plastic coating must have had better luck bonding to the acrylic

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thats not going to have the complete penetration like larry's process does

I guess the goal is to harden a wood that would be otherwise too soft to use. I have this problem with the black limba top on my explorer project. It looks great but is way soft. I'm currently looking for way to make that wood a little more resistant to dents and scratches. That's why I was looking into the Minwax wood hardener or maybe this:

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=...cat=1,190,42997

Its liquid epoxy and I think that the black limba is porous enough to soak it up. All I need is to harden the wood somewhat. If the black limba doesn't get soaked up in its entirety, that's not an issue for me.

Anyways, I just thought I'd present it as an alternative. Of course, Larry's method and process looks pretty heavy duty. I hope he's got a patent on that.

Edited by guitar2005
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here is the equipment larry uses for impregnating and curing the wood - its a bit more than brushing on some hardener so i would be interested to see how far that actually penetrates

autoclavedoor.jpg

th_newcureoven1.jpg

the wood you get from Larry is already fully imprenated with his acrylic solution so you can cut and carve it without finding raw wood

this is the fretless bass board i did. Maple would normally be unsuitable for a fretless but this process makes it comparable to ebony - or even harder!! Alan (Skelf) also uses it for this. It still feels like wood so i prefer it to the epoxy method sometiems used to coat fretless boards

th_fr1.jpg

This bass top was also from larry. I mainly wanted it for the colour and it made finishing a hell of a lot easier. You can see there was no problem with the colour (and therefore the acrylic solution) penetrating all the way through the wood. also its clear that the acrylic does nothing to hide the figure when used in this way

th_IMG_0045.jpg

th_IMG_0065.jpg

I havnt used that minwax stuff and it has perked my interest - particularly for dent resistance on solid bodies rather than just tops and fretboards where the acrylised stuff from larry is so usefull.

oh - the spalt top guitar i am making at the moment is also acrylised and so much easier to work than the other spalt top i have recently finished

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Larry's very fair in terms of pricing, and you're certain to get quality when you order from him. True fact.

It's not cheap, but you get what you pay for: instrument grade wood that's dry and ready to use. He's one of the few vendors I feel fully confident ordering (for example) spalt maple sets from for acoustic guitar back/side use (have a couple coming my way soon...).

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