Bloodwood Guitar

[ihocky2]

Fryovanni has EXCELLENT advice so far. If you start on the project guitar page and read through the tutorials and then the external links you will find a lot of excellent info. Read everything you can find. Here is a list of reading I would recomend.

Melvyn Hiscock-Make Your own Electric Guitar- Take you through 3 builds and explains a lot

Dan Erlewine-Guitar Player repair Guide- good info for setups and repairs and wiring

Dan Erlewine-Finishing Step by Step- Easy to read info on finishing

Dan Erlewine- Fretwork Step by Step-Easy to read and in depth on fretwork

Bob Flexner- Understanding Wood Finishes -Clarifies and simplifies facts and myths and uses about finishes.

http://www.woodcentral.com-The articles section has a lot of info on tool setup and use.

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

Thanks for all the help guys. Those are some good links. I think I have a basic understanding of every I NEED to know, and I'm still planning on learning more. Obviously I haven't read everything you posted yet, there's so much!!!! I had a new design idea though. Could I take thin (1/16, 1/32) ebony and bloodwood, and glue both to the top of the guitar, so I could carve out odd, random shapes and lines and ridges, so I would get the ebony/bloodwood accents?

Here's what I mean:

__________________________________ <ebony

__________________________________ < bloodwood

__________________________________ <mahogany

__________________________________

^Mahogany ^

BTW: Do you guys think they have those books at the library? It closed at 5......

One more thing: Is ebony the only black wood? Its sooooooo expensive. How deep does dye soak in?

Edited February 14, 2008 by Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

I'm a little confused about some things for the neck:

First, is there another way to do the neck angle besides using a jointer or plane? I have read this: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...0angle&st=0

If I do not do a neck angle, the action being normal/messed up depends on the height of my bridge, right?

Ok, I'll admit it. I'm a little intimidated at slotting by own fretboard. I know that pre-slotted fingerboards are available and I was a little worried because of two things:

-This guitar is a 7 string, and I don't know how wide to make the fingerboard. I know that this will depend on the width of the nut and bridge, but I am not sure which bridge, or nut for a matter of fact, I will get. Can someone give me a pretty *average* value to work from? I searched and found about 2.5 inches.....

-I've heard that when cutting a pre-slotted fingerboard tear-out can be a problem. Is there some way to prevent this, or just be careful cutting?

I'd like to get started on this as soon as possible, but know that it's best to learn and plan first. How would you make the guitar? Would you build the neck first, or the wings?

[Rick500]

I'm a little confused about some things for the neck:

First, is there another way to do the neck angle besides using a jointer or plane? I have read this: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...0angle&st=0

If I do not do a neck angle, the action being normal/messed up depends on the height of my bridge, right?

Ok, I'll admit it. I'm a little intimidated at slotting by own fretboard. I know that pre-slotted fingerboards are available and I was a little worried because of two things:

-This guitar is a 7 string, and I don't know how wide to make the fingerboard. I know that this will depend on the width of the nut and bridge, but I am not sure which bridge, or nut for a matter of fact, I will get. Can someone give me a pretty *average* value to work from? I searched and found about 2.5 inches.....

-I've heard that when cutting a pre-slotted fingerboard tear-out can be a problem. Is there some way to prevent this, or just be careful cutting?

I'd like to get started on this as soon as possible, but know that it's best to learn and plan first. How would you make the guitar? Would you build the neck first, or the wings?

You can prevent tearout by using a file, scraper, and sandpaper to take your fretboard down to final taper after it's been glued to the neck. I did just that a few days ago on my current build:

Look around at some specs for 7-string bridges and nuts to get an idea of the widths. Check StewMac and Carvin.

[fryovanni]

I'm a little confused about some things for the neck:

First, is there another way to do the neck angle besides using a jointer or plane? I have read this: http://projectguitar.ibforums.com/index.ph...0angle&st=0

If I do not do a neck angle, the action being normal/messed up depends on the height of my bridge, right?

Ok, I'll admit it. I'm a little intimidated at slotting by own fretboard. I know that pre-slotted fingerboards are available and I was a little worried because of two things:

-This guitar is a 7 string, and I don't know how wide to make the fingerboard. I know that this will depend on the width of the nut and bridge, but I am not sure which bridge, or nut for a matter of fact, I will get. Can someone give me a pretty *average* value to work from? I searched and found about 2.5 inches.....

-I've heard that when cutting a pre-slotted fingerboard tear-out can be a problem. Is there some way to prevent this, or just be careful cutting?

I'd like to get started on this as soon as possible, but know that it's best to learn and plan first. How would you make the guitar? Would you build the neck first, or the wings?

1. yes, Try to look up a topic on using a tapering jig using a router. You should get a hand plane though and learn how to tune and use it (very helpful inexpensive tool).

2. Find the bridge you plan to use and figure out your string spacing and nut width. Draw it up full size. Then allow for spacing on either side of the fretboard beyond the strings. This is the way we all figure out the width of our fretboards. No harm in not slotting your own fretboard, many people prefer not to do this(for various reasons). There is even a member that is offering fret slotting service (look him up in the classified section), everyone seems to be very happy with his work.

3. Sharp tools help. Depending on how you cut the taper (some use bandsaw, some use tablesaw, some router, some use hand planes and so forth) the degree of risk can vary. Personally, I have never had any problems with tearout, so maybe someone who has had issues can elaborate on the issue.

Peace,Rich

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

Once again, thanks for the help. I now have a few questions on hardware (I'm actually looking for opinions and suggestions on what I picked:

I was thinking:

-7 string fixed bridge, such as https://www.carvinguitars.com/products/sing...hp?product=FT7C I'm not sure if these are good bridges but are the best I could find that weren't from ebay, which I don't trust with my pride and joy.....

-locking tuners, such as sperzel. I don't know how I'll get 7, maybe I have to use Ebay.... My friend has them on his mark morton signiture and I like them alot. Would you prefer a different brand over them?

-either a seven string locking nut or on made of graphite. I'd use the locking nut because I'd never have to file it out, no matter how large of strings I use.

Any suggestions?

[Rick500]

Those bridges are fine. Very nice, in fact.

You can get 7-sets of Sperzels from tkinstruments.com

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

Thanks, what do you think of the hipshot seven string 1.25's?

http://www.hipshotproducts.com/cart.php?m=...etail&p=169

[Rick500]

I don't have any experience with that bridge, but I like Hipshot in general.

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

Once again, thanks. One more question though-- What should I make first, the neck or the wings?

[Mattia]

The neck is the heart of the guitar. The wings, well, just sort of look pretty.

Make the neck first.

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

Oh. Thanks. I was thinking of starting on practicing on some wood for the neck tommorrow. Will pine carve the same as mahogany?

[orgmorg]

Not at all, but it will still be good practice.

Mahogany actually will carve a lot nicer, since the grain is finer and more even. It's harder than pine, but works easier.

Edited February 16, 2008 by orgmorg

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

Alright, thanks. I'm going to start buying materials and tools soon, but still have a few questions.

I read this : http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/anck.htm I was still planning on doing the mahogany/bloodwood/m/b/m neck, and was thinking, wouldn't doing an angled headstock like that end up looking ugly on a laminate neck? How would you do one?

I wanted to do a neck binding, but couldn't find much info on it. Would I just take my binding material and glue it to the edge of the fret board and top of the neck wood before rasping/sanding it down fully?

For the neck, do you have to saw off the parts of the wood not used on the edge or can u use a spokeshave or plane or rasp? Is there another way to do it?

Any opinions on the bloodwood inlay on the top?

Thanks for any help.

[mattharris75]

Have you read Melvyn Hiscock's book yet? It sounds like you need to read something that takes you through the whole process with a reasonable amount of detail. This will answer a lot of your questions, and when it doesn't answer them it will give you the knowledge to ask better and more specific questions.

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

Well, I changed my mind. Instead of doing bloodwood inlay on the top, I plan to do abalone veneer. I found this: http://cgi.ebay.com/4A-PAUA-ABALONE-INLAY-...7QQcmdZViewItem

Do you guys think that this is any good, and are they right about the statement that you do not have to route out a cavity because it's so thin?

I'll be sure to keep you posted throughout the building process. Which will hopefully be soon.

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

I decided to change things around once again and wait a little while until I start to build it. I'm considering making an 8 string instead of a seven string and was wondering a few things:

Is a 25.5 scale length to short for an eight string? My friend thinks the intonation will be messed up. I don't exactly see why, but I thought I should check.

Is there anywhere to buy a pre-slotted fretboard that's wide enough for an eight string? I checked lmii, and they say there wide board is 3". That is wide enough, right?

[killemall8]

the neck for sure. why dont you trust ebay? thats the only place ive ever ordered parts from for 3 years until my last 2 orders wich were from guitarfetish. ive never had a problem. there are some very reputable reliable companies that have ebay stores.

[ihocky2]

With how much you keep changing your mind the first piece of advice you really need to listen to is, DO MORE READING. Do the research, take your time, learn what is involved with each style of guitar. Plan several out at full size on paper. Between reading and fully planning you will gain a feel for what is involved. Most of us will build a guitar hundreds of times from start to finish in our heads before even making the first wood chip. Planning and patience are the number one keys to a successfull build.

[MescaBug]

Thanks for all the help guys. Those are some good links. I think I have a basic understanding of every I NEED to know, and I'm still planning on learning more. Obviously I haven't read everything you posted yet, there's so much!!!! I had a new design idea though. Could I take thin (1/16, 1/32) ebony and bloodwood, and glue both to the top of the guitar, so I could carve out odd, random shapes and lines and ridges, so I would get the ebony/bloodwood accents?

Here's what I mean:

__________________________________ <ebony

__________________________________ < bloodwood

__________________________________ <mahogany

__________________________________

^Mahogany ^

BTW: Do you guys think they have those books at the library? It closed at 5......

One more thing: Is ebony the only black wood? Its sooooooo expensive. How deep does dye soak in?

Why don't you just start with something more basic? All mahogany would be a good start. Familiarize yourself with glueing, tools. And then think about building an exotic guitar. This thread would be 2 pages long instead of 5, if you would concentrate on the basic guitar building processes instead of trying to find the most exotic setup. You're asking if pine carves the same as mahogany, and you're thinking about bloodwood and ebony? If you never worked with softer woods like alder or mahogany, don't think about working with ebony and bloodwood. These hardwoods are tricky to work with. It's like driving a Formula One without having touch a steering wheel once in your life. Sure you can do it, but there is a higher chance of trashing things up. At your own expenses unfortunately.

You do what you want, it's just my 2 cents. But I can 'feel' the thrill of the beginner here. It's not a bad thing at all, but it can flood your brain with ideas and questions that are unecessary, and prevent you from concentrating on the most important thing; building a guitar!

Edited February 21, 2008 by MescaBug

[fryovanni]

Your getting side tracked as these guys are telling you. Keep your focus on that solid understanding of basics. If you solidify that understanding, instead of focusing on exotic wood combinations and asthetics. After you understand the basics you will be able to visualize how many details can be worked into a design. You may even understand more about the woods you are choosing so those lams are placed for functional as well as asthetic reasons.

Peace,Rich

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

Yes, I am extremely excited about building a guitar. But I have not missed the basics. I know the objective is to build a functional guitar. And I plan to. Half the point of building this guitar was for it to be different. By the name of the thread, "Bloodwood Guitar", obviously I want to use exotic woods. I knew these woods would be hard to carve ever since I heard "63 pounds per cubic foot. Does not carve easily, but polishes to a nice finish." If I wanted a guitar that was easy to make, I'd just buy one. Instead, I want a challenge. I know you're just warning me about potential complications, but your missing the point of this guitar. And it's not a bad thing that this is 5 pages long, that just means I'll have less trouble in the long run.

I chose bloodwood/mahogany for the neck because it would look awesome. But now I realize that the bloodwood should actually help to keep the neck from bending, which is good.

I trashed the bloodwood/ebony idea; it was just a burst of imagination. The ebony would be too expensive, and it would be hard to do.

I plan to order the bloodwood as soon as I get done with the final templates and decisions. I will get the mahogany from a lumberyard near me.

Thanks for all the help along the way. I'm sure I could not make this guitar without the knowledge that you provided me with.

[Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist]

I have a few questions again.

When making a fretboard, when are the bindings installed? Before or after the frets? On my RG the frets extend into the binding. How is this done?

This next one may sound stupid, but where is the truss rod glued in? Is it actually glued to the channel, or is it glue to the fret board? Or not at all? Feel free to tell me that I'm an idiot for asking this question....

Edited March 6, 2008 by Pandemic_Lead_Guitarist

[Jon]

I'm sure this has been posted many times, but a book on guitar building will answer all your general questions.

Binding is installed before the frets go in. A fret nipper removes the tang from the fret so the top part of the fret lays over the binding. The truss rod is held in place by pressure, there really isn't a need to glue it in place. It's simply placed in the channel down the center of the neck, then the fingerboard is glued over it. Some people prefer to use silicone to fill parts of the truss channel to prevent the truss rod from rattling. If the channel is tight enough, you shouldn't have any issue with the truss rod rattling. I never have, but I only have 3 necks built.

[mattharris75]

I have a few questions again.

When making a fretboard, when are the bindings installed? Before or after the frets? On my RG the frets extend into the binding. How is this done?

This next one may sound stupid, but where is the truss rod glued in? Is it actually glued to the channel, or is it glue to the fret board? Or not at all? Feel free to tell me that I'm an idiot for asking this question....

Seriously...As has been said here before, buy Melvyn Hiscock's book. This will give you answers to a very large percentage of your questions. And as far as those it doesn't answer specifically, it will give you the ability to ask more well informed questions.