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Fooling Around (with Serious Work)


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I guess I should post something other than advise and tool reviews. Here are my latest pieces I am working on. The guitar is called the Dove, named after building several prototypes designs. These two are being built to check out a set of patterns i have made up to make this whole process easier and to make changes in the neck tenon.

I would normally blow through a single build, but I have several other things going on at the same time so these may take a few weeks to complete.

Two identical guitars two different looks. Both are Mahogany Backs and necks, but one is a carved 2nd class flame top and the other a flat Zebra wood top. So far I have about 10 hrs invested in the body's and two necks (not shown).

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I wasn't expecting to post these pictures and they are not that great. The Carved maple top has no binding and I will probably not add any as the line between the Mahogany and maple is about 1/8". Both tops have been wiped with mineral spirits for the picture. The body will be much darker when it is finished as it is dry in the pictures.

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These are the pattern for the build. Basically this is a test of these patterns. The first pattern is the body template and the initial wire route for the wiring, the wiring route allows several different combinations of switch locations and is used only for drop tops. The second pattern has the neck pocket and the rear cavity holes. The third pattern locates the pots on the top and routs for a set of humbuckers. Missing is a control cover ledge pattern which I will be working on before I get much further along. this will add a 4th pattern to the set.

One of the original prototypes for reference below, the fisrt picture is a bit dark

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Very basic and boring prototype but a good start. This one is hollowed under the top and it made for a very unstable guitar. Because the upper strap is so close to the body and not the 12th fret, hollowing out these bodies is problematic. We will see how these two turn out.

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Fit the necks this morning getting closer. they are not glued in yet as I still have to route the rear cavities. The tenon still has to be trimmed to fit in the pickup opening. Have to figure out what woods to use for the fingerboard, ebony seems right for the maple but the Zebra I am undecided? Suggestions welcome.

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Those are VERY stylish bodies, Spoke!! Totally in love with the amber maple topped one you posted. The binding is classy and I can see f-holes making a good-lookin' archtop!

::EDIT::

I'm curious as to the change in body outline around the neck pocket from the prototype to the first builds. The curve from the bass to treble horn seems stable enough not to need the Gibson-styled neck pocket.

Edited by Xanthus
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I'm curious as to the change in body outline around the neck pocket from the prototype to the first builds. The curve from the bass to treble horn seems stable enough not to need the Gibson-styled neck pocket.

The body is identical to the prototype as it is based on the original pattern now in retirement. The very first prototype did not flow as nicely between left and right at the top of the body. It was much more ornate, now a shell striped for parts.

The original tenon was a bit shorter. As I will be butting the pickup ring against the edge if the fret board, It eliminated the need to use a short tenon and the need to leave some top between the ring and the board as in the prototype. This gives me 4 inch's rather than 2 1/2" of neck joint. The other change is no heel. the fingerboard will be moved toward the bridge rather than have it end right at the curve in the horn. It will also be squared off to accommodate the pickup ring.

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I will be using a fender style fixed bridge as I am liking them more and more. Departs a bit from the Gibson look of the guitar.

So far I will have to modify the left top of the body as the curve for the wing (or whatever you want to call it) is too close to the neck connection forcing me to round the edge of the neck to fit. i would rather have a flat surface. It is hard to see in the picture but the left side of the neck is slightly curved to fit against the body. Not a major issue but something I think is a design flaw. I didnt remember this from the last build until I fit the neck.

I am not sure about the F holes, but I never rule out what others may want. The maple color was just natural, no amber added. I will probably tint the top either blue or red or green, using some of the methods I learned on this forum. The rest will be natural.

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I made some changes since my last post. As Xanthus said why use the Gibson style tenon. After looking at my work and the first two prototypes I realized I was going backward with the design. Luckily I had no problem making the change. This was a problem with the first two but for some reason I did not remember the issues I had with the design.

This neck joint will have no heel to speak of so the neck will seamlessly continue into the body.

Removing the neck pocket ledge and using a full tenon was just a much better idea. As I was fixing my templates I threw in another guitar as well. A Lace wood drop top version, still needs some work in the cutout.

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You can see the big change in the neck pocket. This is also easier to sand out the top edge of the body as well, now that the full curve is revealed. All the templates have been changed as well as a new template with the new neck pocket. Also a detailed neck / fingerboard template so I know the neck will fit tight.

The three amigos. Along with the neck and fingerboards for each.

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I still have a bit of work to do but it is close adding inlay to the fingerboards.

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I approve the change in neck joint :D Makes for a much more elegant design.

My vote is still for the one with black binding.

I am still opting for the maple. Probably will be blue or green when I am done. Its also the hardest one to build due to the carving. I am trying to do three different builds, hard, medium hard and easy. The easy being the Lacewood top.

Today is cutting the slots and figuring out what inlay to use. Adding pin holes to the neck template so I can pin on the fingerboard while gluing. Martin used a common roll pin but I have some smaller 1/16" steel pins which are less likely to cause issues. I will have to add a steel guide/insert to the template so I will not wear out the MDF(I have a metal lathe). This will also allow me to glue on the neck cut the pickup slots then add the fingerboard. Since the tendon ends under the pickup this seems like an easier solution. I am still thinking this one through.

I also have to finish the template for the cavity cover. The cover and cavity were easy the ledge template will be a bit harder to make as it will require several steps using a template bushing or inlay kit. or just lots of hand work

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Todays progress

The drill bit, inset and pin to locate the neck while gluing.

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The Three Amigos, Yes the ends of the fingerboard need to be trimed back, on all three.

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And the new neck joint. As expected clean.

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Next the hard part inlay for three guitars. This is where a laser comes in handy along with a trust fund. :D

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WOW, the zebra and the Lacewood are my two favorites. I have a custom Lacewood super Strat I assembled a few years ago that I absolutely love. However, I have always had a thing for zebra wood. What are going to use for pickups and wiring configuration? :D

I am making the humbuckers myself. I like that PAF sound so that will be the goal. I am not really hip on over wound humbuckers. One set will be A2 magnets rather than A5. All of these guitars will be getting a fixed Strat bridge as I am liking them more and more. I guess I could also substitute single coils to this design as well.

I still say I like the maple better, but you have to be here. This will get the majority of the attention and the Lacewood the least adornment. I thought about a coloring the Lacewood but I make take a rain check.

The Lacewood and Zebra are both inexpensive woods considering what else is available. That maple top came from a partially figured board and was the same price as standard maple. You have to be there to find things like this. Now that I moved from the northeast to the west my opportunity to find maple has greatly diminished, but other woods like the Zebra and Lacewood are readily available in quantity. When you have a stack to look thought your chances of success are much higher.

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Managed to finish off the maple body neck inlay. Two more to go

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Those are some fi-hine builds there!

.. a question tho; Are thos pics straight from the camera?..

I am doing some quick color enhancement, but only to the whole image. otherwise it would be hard to see anything. If you see flame that is the wood not me, LOL

Here is todays update. Started looking at the heel joint, as a finished product. I think this is looking fine.

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If I go too far it will be hard to finish.

Here is the cavity pocket which I was worried about.

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Note I am not so insane that a few lines in the cavity is a problem as long as the bottom is flat and the ledge is flat too. I have the cavity cover template ready just need to cut up some scrap wood. I don't use plastic for covers.

The other two still needs the headstock adorned. My wife told me to swap the two necks below (they are swapped in these pictures) she said spots and strips don't mix. LOL :D . Not exactly a summer outfit but it wasn't such a big deal, maybe it does look better this way. Nothing is glued together yet, I only started shaping one neck so two more to go. Still lots of small details to finish up. My next post will be a more finished product glued up and fretted.

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Bout the guitars; I'm diggin' the shape. Is it well balanced?

Without a finish it is the usual pictures, nothing pops. As for selection this is what I had in my shop at the time so it was a no brainer what woods to use. The maple as I have said is second class (in my opinion) so it will never look 5A. The shape does lend itself to veneer on a flat top. Talking maple here. I would use a maple topper with a maple veneer if I did. want an inexpensive 5a top.

As for balance this is basically the same as a LP or any other guitar without an upper horn. Because it does not have an upper horn which gets your strap close to the 12th fret (the point at which I believe most designs can be made into anything) hollowing out the body was problematic. The 2nd prototype was hollowed and had a bit of neck dive. If I was just going to put in an F hole I don't see a problem there.

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Got a bit further along. A few more things to do then sand and finish.

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There are not too many LPish single cutaway styles I like, other than the original, but your design I love

A lot I've seen out there almost achieve getting an individual look away from the LP, but there's usually

something missing or not quite right

To me yours is a standout :D

I particularly like the Zebrawood one

I look forward to seeing them completed

Dave :D

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There are not too many LPish single cutaway styles I like, other than the original, but your design I love

A lot I've seen out there almost achieve getting an individual look away from the LP, but there's usually

something missing or not quite right

To me yours is a standout :D

I particularly like the Zebrawood one

I look forward to seeing them completed

Dave :D

Thanks for the design approval. It took me years to find a shape I was happy with. I always liked single cutaway LP guitars.

A picture showing why I named it the dove. The eye was extra. LOL

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