Xanthus Posted May 11, 2009 Report Share Posted May 11, 2009 (edited) Major mess-up on my #3 build. Don't know if I mentioned it, but I made a taper template for the neck, screwed it on, and ran it over the router. Well, the screws apparently weren't as tight as they could have been and the router cut the taper a hair too short. I should have been more patient and used the robosander instead. Basically, I know I can do better. So the new neck is going to be all walnut, 2-piece, with a 1/16" strip of flamed maple (trimmed down from 1/8" unless I can find a piece that thin) for an accent line. I will be using my Stewmac Hot Rod and rosewood fretboard. I want this to be a neck I'll be really proud of, so I'm going to take a lot of care in making it look pro. I wanted to do more with the flame maple accent than just the stripe down the back. I was thinking of: -scarf joint strip - I like the look of Daniel's contrasting veneer strip at the scarf joint. The walnut will be 1-1/4" thick, which would place the stripe beyond the volute. By my measurements the strip should hit the fretboard around the 4th fret. Is this too far down the neck to look good? I didn't want the strip to hit the volute, but I wanted enough meat to carve a good one out with the robosander. -under the fretboard - I will have a 1/8" lip from the board to the body top, because I don't like the strings resting too close to the body surface. I feel a 1/8" accent may be too thick, but split up between the heel and fretboard might be nice. I also don't want to go overboard with veneer on the neck, seeing as the body is just going to be plain one-piece mahogany and won't get any special treatment. Any thoughts on veneer placement? Edited May 12, 2009 by Xanthus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 12, 2009 After a trip to the wood store, going in a different direction now (but what else is new?). Scored a great looking piece of bubinga. Doing a bubinga neck with two 1/8" flamed maple lams, and a rosewood fretboard on top. I will have plenty of maple veneer left; might strap a veneer on the headstock afterwards. I've never seen or heard a bubinga neck, but its reputation is good, so I'm hoping it works out with the mahog body and rosewood fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Not like I'm telling you anything new, but... Bubinga is pretty heavy. Make sure the body is substantial enough and balanced to avoid neck dive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Oh yeah is this wood heavy! I'm pretty excited actually Thanks for the tip, John. It's a 22fret RG styled body, so it will have a upper horn over the 12th fret. I'm not EXPECTING any problems... With the wood score today, I was looking at their mahogany (all they had was sapele... ). They only had 8/4, but for the price, I was going to grab some. It was s3s but I thought a 2" body would be a bit beefy. I'm sure it would balance the bubinga though! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Oh yeah is this wood heavy! I'm pretty excited actually Thanks for the tip, John. It's a 22fret RG styled body, so it will have a upper horn over the 12th fret. I'm not EXPECTING any problems... With the wood score today, I was looking at their mahogany (all they had was sapele... ). They only had 8/4, but for the price, I was going to grab some. It was s3s but I thought a 2" body would be a bit beefy. I'm sure it would balance the bubinga though! Make sure the old tools are sharp!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Our Souls inc. Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 Bubinga ? I'm using Teak . Talk 'bout heavy .... anyways - I've got a newbie question for you , if you don't mind: How big/what dimensions should a truss rod channel be ? I'm building my first neck and I'm semi-clueless about that aspect. Thanks in advance - PGFH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 The best answer I feel is "wide/deep enough to fit your truss rod." There should be no wiggle room whatsoever. Buy one to use with your project and measure from there. Look at LMII's truss rods. They are thin and shallow and well-constructed. I would get either Koch's or Hiscock's book on guitar building, if you haven't already, and exploit the forum's search function for all it's worth! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
avengers63 Posted May 13, 2009 Report Share Posted May 13, 2009 I'm not EXPECTING any problems... Well yea... we don't EXPECT problems, but they still happen. But all that unexpected frustration sure makes us grow by leaps & bounds, huh. I was looking at their mahogany (all they had was sapele... ). Aint nutin' wrong with sapele. It sounds a little darker tone than mahogany, it's easy to work with, has a GREAT color, and has a nice ribboning if it's cut right. And as a bonus, it's a little cheaper than mahogany. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Thanks for the sapele insight John! Cut the neck lams today and gluing tomorrow. 5-piece bubinga/maple/b/m/b. Anyone have any tips for keeping the lams stable and in line when gluing up? I'm worried about the glue shifting during drying. Thinking about clamping it to the table, but I don't want to get glued to the table either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SwedishLuthier Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 If the laminates are exactly the same with you can use a few pieces of straight stable wood and clamp them to the top and bottom, perpendicular to the laminates. That way you ensure proper alignment. Make sure to protect the wooden cauls with parcel tape or wax paper. Another way is to use dowels or nails in areas that will be cut off (careful when cutting if you use nails). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted May 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Ah, wax paper.... you might be onto something, Peter! I had BARELY enough wood to work with to get my 3 laminates (6x36") so I had to cut almost every corner. I could slide a dowel through one area, maybe two since the tenon is going to be buried in the neck pocket. I think you just solved my problem, Peter! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted May 14, 2009 Report Share Posted May 14, 2009 Bubinga ? I'm using Teak . Talk 'bout heavy .... anyways - I've got a newbie question for you , if you don't mind: How big/what dimensions should a truss rod channel be ? I'm building my first neck and I'm semi-clueless about that aspect. Thanks in advance - PGFH The rod determines the depth, its that easy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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