madhattr88 Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 no matter how hard i try, i am never happy with the positioning of my fingerboard side dots. they are just 1/16" white dots. does anyone have a cool jig or method for drillin' these suckers???? my drill press always "walks" and i never get them exactly where i want them. especially the two at the 12th fret. thanks! matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJE-Guitars Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 For me I make a template in CAD - measure the thickness of the fretboard then absolute centre them in CAD both horizontal and vertically. Use good ole double side sticky tape to hold it in place then use a centre punch on the centre marks then just drill away. Works for me! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keegan Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 A center punch will stop the walkin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I always figured this was the easy part. Yeah you have to be careful with those smaller bits. Also get the bit in as far as you can into the chuck, this will help stiffen the bit up. Also use a brad point drill bit as these will not wander. I just mark it out, shim up the board at the first few frets so its level with the drill bit and use a fence. Never had a problem. I do try to place the dots lower on the edge of the board rather than try and center them as the board does thin out at the upper frets after you radius. I also put in my inlay and side dots prior to radius work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhattr88 Posted June 2, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I always figured this was the easy part. Yeah you have to be careful with those smaller bits. Also get the bit in as far as you can into the chuck, this will help stiffen the bit up. Also use a brad point drill bit as these will not wander. I just mark it out, shim up the board at the first few frets so its level with the drill bit and use a fence. Never had a problem. I do try to place the dots lower on the edge of the board rather than try and center them as the board does thin out at the upper frets after you radius. I also put in my inlay and side dots prior to radius work. can u have the drill bit all the way in the chuck...is it ok to grab the cutting flute and not the shank??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westhemann Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 I use my pointed(very sharp) scribe for the center punch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Razbo Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 can u have the drill bit all the way in the chuck...is it ok to grab the cutting flute and not the shank??? There is a danger that it might go in the chuck crooked. Brad points are a good answer for wandering bits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
anderekel Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 Do them before you radius. Take into account that you'll lose a little width when you radius. Then just set up a makeshift fence on the drill press table (assuming you're using a drill press) and clamp it down where you need it and you're good to go. A center punch and brad point bit are extremely helpful too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 2, 2009 Report Share Posted June 2, 2009 can u have the drill bit all the way in the chuck...is it ok to grab the cutting flute and not the shank??? You drill with the tip not the flutes, so yes the chuck should have no effect on the bit, clamped onto the flutes. Since you are not drilling into a hard material you should have no slipping where the bit rotates in the chuck. Normally I would not recommend this method. As I said the best bit is a brad point. If you are in the US Harbor freight has sets for under $10 on sale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SJE-Guitars Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 A center punch will stop the walkin' .. ... I use my pointed(very sharp) scribe for the center punch... Bingo! The punch indent is there so the tip of the bit has something to go into so it doesn't walk. I also have 0.8mm drill bits which I use to make the punch indent slightly deeper as it'll go into the indent - then a brad point bit gripped in the chuck as high up the shank as possible. With all fine bits when you grip them at the shank it only takes the slightest bend for the bit to wobble when spinning which will make it walk. Always start your drill press up and check it's spinning straight before even trying to drill something and whilst you're at it test everything on a scrap before you do attack the fretboard! If you don't have a brad point bit then using the wood/metal bit you can grip them on the twist so leave only a small length (~1cm) of the bit sticking out which also removes the walking problem as the small length doesn't bend. As with everything the 90% of the work is preparation the last 10% should take about 2 minutes to drill the holes in the fretboard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 3, 2009 Report Share Posted June 3, 2009 Drilling side dot markers Project needs a scrap square block scrap square of lexan drill bit 2 1/4" stove bolts 1 1/4" wing nut 1 1/4" fender washer Use a nice square cutoff at least 3 inches tall and 2 inches thick Cut the piece of plexi/lexan to be the same width of our block and about 1/2" taller. Make a 1/4" slot in the plexi by drilling 2 - 1/4" holes on center and use a dremel/scroll saw to make the slot. The top 1/4" bolt is just a guide pin and can be epoxied in. The other bolt is used to set the depth of you guide. Drill the holes in the plexi with the drill press so they are square. I have 3 sizes of side dots, and in turn drilled three different size guide holes. When finished use the guide and a battery drill to drill your side dot markers. The pictures below are of a quick version I made using my fret bevel block. I also posted this on my blog... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalhead28 Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 I mark the locations with a pencil, hit them carefully with a center punch, and then I use a hand drill. Remarkably low tech, I suppose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 4, 2009 Report Share Posted June 4, 2009 I mark the locations with a pencil, hit them carefully with a center punch, and then I use a hand drill. Remarkably low tech, I suppose. +1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
egdeltar Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 i mark them with a pencil, then line up my 90 degree jig, clamp it with a mini c clamp and use a hand drill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madhattr88 Posted June 5, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 i mark them with a pencil, then line up my 90 degree jig, clamp it with a mini c clamp and use a hand drill. do u have any pics of your 90° jig??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Metalhead28 Posted June 5, 2009 Report Share Posted June 5, 2009 I don't think drilling the hole perfectly perpendicular is even all that important, honestly. I use the little plastic rods, and I figure even if the hole isn't perfectly straight, by the time I've trimmed it off and brought the plastic down flush to the fingerboard you'd never be able to tell if it was 10° off. Just an observation. Not trying to say that being sloppy is okay or anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chops1983 Posted June 7, 2009 Report Share Posted June 7, 2009 I don't think drilling the hole perfectly perpendicular is even all that important, honestly. I use the little plastic rods, and I figure even if the hole isn't perfectly straight, by the time I've trimmed it off and brought the plastic down flush to the fingerboard you'd never be able to tell if it was 10° off. Just an observation. Not trying to say that being sloppy is okay or anything. im much the same. Mark them, punch them, drill them with a cordless and if i cant drill straight by now then i should not be a weekend luthier or a carpenter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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