riffster Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 (edited) Hello PG's On the guitar that I am building with a gotoh tunomatic with a 2 1/16" string spread. I drew a line straight back for the rear ferrules. I only have a little wiggle room before they overlap. The ferrules I am using are 25/64 and can be found at stewmac. What is the best way to make sure that these ferrules don't collide with one another so that I can drill them accurately? The string spacing is 10.47 and the ferrule dia is 9.92. Any jigs or suggestions? I really don't want to plug any holes! Nathan Edited June 21, 2009 by riffster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narcissism Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Hi Nathan! Is staggering the ferrules an option? You'll notice that most of the builds here don't have the ferrules in a straight line. Staggering the ferrules will help create enough space between each one so they don't overlap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Thanks for the reply. I have already drilled the main holes that the string will go through in a straight line. This is the one thing that I overlooked and I am afraid that I am going to have to plug some holes. I tried to get the main small string hole as accurate as possible, but a few might be a little offline. I may just have to route a block on the back to plug them all then somehow do something that makes them super accurate. Has anybody done them in a straight line before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Even when they are drilled perfectly straight, those ferrules don't allow much wiggle room. At this point your options are to test fit and see how they got or plug and redrill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Narcissism Posted June 21, 2009 Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 I've seen them done in a straight line. They are pretty tightly packed with no space between them at all. As far as plugging goes, I would just get a hardwood dowel and fill in using those. It'll save you some time, and probably look better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted June 21, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 21, 2009 Thanks for the reply's. I saved the scrap wood and I will be able to use the scrapwood to plug each hole if it doesn't work out. If I am to intimidated to redrill then I suppose I won't install any ferrules on the back and I could wait to do that on my next build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drak Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 There's no reason to be intimidated. You have to learn how to do it sooner or later. Why not just stop being in a hurry. Take some scrap wood......and......wait......here it comes...... Practice. Until you get it. Might take a few times. I say a million times the real instrument is no place to learn how to do stuff unless you consider your guitar a practice board. Just take some scrap and practice it already, you'll get it and be happy you did. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 Really depends on if you are doing them by hand or with a drill press? If you already have the through holes drilled straight then the rear ferules should be easy. A drill press and a fence to keep the ferule holes in line. A block of wood clamped across the body using a hand drill. Thees holes can be slightly off center but need to be in a straight line. If you are painting then you have less to worry about. They do make a specialty bit with a pilot which will align with the through hole so the ferule can be drilled perfectly centered using a hand drill. Pricey drill bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 I did it by drill press. I used a brad point first that fit the diameter of the ferrule. The problem is that I was a smidge off and it threw off the next one at least. As far as the special bit, I have the interchangable pilot bits that fit the 25/64 lip and the vintage style ferrule that is 3/8. I can't wait to use them. Their so cool! Thanks for the replies and the encouragement. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 I'm thinking of using a single plate of wood or possibly brass, instead of ferrules, to circumvent this issue. Might I offer that as an alternative? Although, you did buy the pieces already, I'd hate for them to go to waste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 (edited) Never mind. Didn't realize your smaller holes were off. Was going to suggest the pin in the DP table trick to center 'em. Edited June 22, 2009 by soapbarstrat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 they can be tricky to get right but as drak says, practice! if you start to feel bad about it then go and play a few vintage tele's or esquires - they are almost always out of whack. problem is that even the slightest error looks huge when you are staring at those little ferrules Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 Yeah, it bothers me alot. This is my first electric though. Still it does not seem like a good excuse, cause i hate excuses. I am leaning on not using rear ferrules, just front, If I can plug them and redrill them, the plugged holes won't seem so obvious because the top ferrules will take up more space. Nathan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 23, 2009 Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 You need something other than the wood to anchor the strings against though. There is a lot of tension on the stings that are going to pull the ball ends into the body wood. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 What else could I use then? Am I restricted to using ferrules? Any other ways? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soapbarstrat Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 I've seen these "bars" that can be inlayed in the back of the guitar. Of course this bar has recessed holes, so it's doing the same thing the ferrules do, just that it's a one piece unit instead of six individual units. Can't think of what the damn thing is called. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Oh yeah that bar thingy. I have seen it before, but I am unsure what is is called too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanthus Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 You need something other than the wood to anchor the strings against though. There is a lot of tension on the stings that are going to pull the ball ends into the body wood. I thought I've seen a few builds around here just resting on the bare wood... Unfortunately I don't have the resources to make a brass block like I've seen some people do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WezV Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 i have done it just with ebony and that works well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Woodenspoke Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Thees holes can be slightly off center but need to be in a straight line What I meant to say is if your through holes are a bit off it should not matter as you can align the ferrules, they can be off center of the actual hole, as long as the through holes are close enough. As long as the ferrule holes are even on the back thats all anyone will see. You can also drill a slightly larger hole behind the ferrule to connect everything. Since some are off using the pilot will be problematic so its back to the drill press and a brad point drill, also clamp down the body so nothing moves. I think drilling these through holes is one of the more difficult things to do so dont beat yourself up over it. Just make it work. One technique to drilling straight holes is constant chip clearance by removing the bit repeatedly from the hole. Takes longer but does drill a straighter hole when using a small bits. What people dont see is not a mistake, LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Quarter Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 One technique to drilling straight holes is constant chip clearance by removing the bit repeatedly from the hole. Takes longer but does drill a straighter hole when using a small bits. Absolutely ... going slow, easy, and keeping the chips clear helps a lot. And don't use a smaller than necessary bit, the thinner the bit, the more potential it has to wander. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 Thanks for all of the help everybody. I will probably be able to work on the git fiddle on Friday. I am working on it at a luthier frineds house. I will weigh all the options and think it through carefully and then I'll discuss it with my friend. Again, thanks soooo much! We are shaping the neck. Hopefully it will be done this summer since college gets in the way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ihocky2 Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 i have done it just with ebony and that works well. I forgot about using ebony or other very hard woods. Even some pieces of ash would probably be okay to go against bare wood. Softer woods I would not try it with though. I doubt you would ever actually pull through the body, but you will be likely to have trouble restringing in the future and the ball could easily become stuck in the wood. I can hear Ed Roman and Zachary now, "I don't use metal ferrules because the impede the true tone of the wood" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
riffster Posted June 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 (edited) Impede the true tone of the wood?! LOL. I wish I had their ears! *woops. I automatically thought that they did say that since they have said strange things before! Edited June 25, 2009 by riffster Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RestorationAD Posted June 24, 2009 Report Share Posted June 24, 2009 "I don't use metal ferrules because the impede the true tone of the wood" Now we have to start talking about Bell Brass ferrules instead of pot metal... Milled from bar stock even... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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