Guitarnut - Prs Custom 22

[guitarnut]

With the frets in place and a quick pass of the file done to take the sharp ends down, I moved onto the headstock veneer. I was going to use a flame maple veneer, but I really like the look of mahogany as PRS does it on theirs.

I taped down a piece of mahogany to a larger board and used a hand plane to take down the thickness. I could have done this on the band saw but I need to get my hand planing skills in order...

Down to 2mm and ready to glue up.

Lots of gentle, even pressure to make sure it lays flat on the headstock.

[guitarnut]

While the veneer is setting up, I started dialing in the carve. A pass with a scraper, paying close attention to high and low spots. The french curve type like I use gets you into all sorts of curves and detail...very handy vs a flat or curved scraper.

I had several high spots on the edges, so I worked the finger plane around the perimeter to level them out. This also enhanced the edge of the carve. Since the plane has a convex sole, I didn't touch the height of the binding but just slightly "scooped" along the edge.

Then I follwed with a scraper to blend the ridge left by the plane.

The flame is starting to look pretty good on this one. I wasn't sure how it would turn out since it wasn't bookmatched.

All cleaned up and ready for the neck.

[Prostheta]

You're very correct about the waste of wire, and your method is sound in its economy. It also reduces the donkey work levelling and bevelling....

I actually fret with 5-6mm waste either side (yep - over a foot of waste per instrument) just on the basis that I snag an elastic band over the overhanging wire ends and under the neck to keep the wire flush with the edges of the board whilst the glue in the fret slot is curing. Different methods with different perspectives - always good to have both ends of the spectrum analysed for their uses and veracity ;-)

I have to say that I am in love with my gooseneck too. Is yours handcut, or just very well used? The pics of it make it look somewhat less than "machine made"! That probably makes it better if you're making your own tools also!

[guitarnut]

I actually fret with 5-6mm waste either side (yep - over a foot of waste per instrument) just on the basis that I snag an elastic band over the overhanging wire ends and under the neck to keep the wire flush with the edges of the board whilst the glue in the fret slot is curing.

Well, if it serves a purpose, I guess it's not waste.

I have to say that I am in love with my gooseneck too. Is yours handcut, or just very well used? The pics of it make it look somewhat less than "machine made"! That probably makes it better if you're making your own tools also!

If you're referring to the scraper...I guess it does look sort of like a gooseneck...it's from StewMac, and very well worn.

Peace,

Mark

[guitarnut]

Here's the veneer all trimmed up. I cut it close with a coping saw and then cleaned it up with a spindle sander sleeve...they're great to have around for work like this.

Then I opened up the truss rod access.

After checking the thickness after the veneer was applied, I needed to take it down a bit. I planed it off the back of the headstock. I took it down to .650".

Ready to go. I just need to block it smooth and down to finished tickness at .500".

[guitarnut]

My goal last night was to get the neck glued in. Before that, I added a 1/4" radius to the back. I debated whether or not to add a belly cut, but I've seen PRS guitars with and without. I personally don't have a need for one...it would take far too deep a cut to make my belly comfortable. :shock:

So, here we are. The moment of truth. My first set neck build and I was a bit nervous dispite the care I'd taken in my measuring and milling.

I dry clamped the neck in place and set up my string jig to check alignment and bridge placement.

It all looks good and the strings have enough pressure on the last few frets that they're breaking their lines a bit...which is fine since the bridge post will be flush on the top and the bridge will easily adjust upward to set the proper string height.

Well, no turning back now... it's in!

The shadow line in the joint is from the tenon being a bit too tall...I'll clean that up later.

[guitarnut]

It's offically a guitar...all one piece at least. I'll drill the string thru holes and mount the bridge tonight. I still need to add the bore for the output jack, deepen the ends of the PU routes for screw clearance and recess the control locations, too. I'm also going to try to recess the control cover...not a big fan of covers sitting on top.

This type of body presents a new challenge for me...getting the ground wire to the bridge. I guess I could go thru the bridge PU route but it would be a tough angle...I like the straight shot from the output bore and thru the control cavity...like in the pic below. It seems more predicable.

Then, it's on to finish prep...maybe I'll get some color on it this weekend!

[DC Ross]

Nice job on this one, and I like your ingenuity, but you may want to re-think the wire routing here. The pickup wires will more than likely get in the way of the pickup legs and impede the height adjustability. Ask me how I know

[guitarnut]

Nice job on this one, and I like your ingenuity, but you may want to re-think the wire routing here. The pickup wires will more than likely get in the way of the pickup legs and impede the height adjustability. Ask me how I know

Thanks for the heads up. I'll keep this in mind while I'm winding the PUs. Maybe I can account for it in during step. If that's the biggest problem I have on this build, I'll be thrilled!

Peace,

Mark

[guitarnut]

Time to mount the bridge. I didn't use the srting jig this time because I haven't drilled it for the string spacing of the this bridge, so a few pieces of tape will work. The strings are taped down at the net slot close to 1/8" off the edge of the fretboard.

Looks good. They will actually be closer to the edge when the nut is cut and they are under tension. They're not any tighter right now than the tape can hold.

I set up the neck so I could get the bridge right down on the top if I wanted to. So this means countersinking the studs. I started by marking the locations. My placement is scale + 1/16" on the treble side and scale + 1/8" on the bass side. I started the locations with a 1/2" forstnet bit. This will give me a ledge to set the bit later in the process.

Then I was able to drill out the center with a 5/32" bit to allow the upside down stud to sit down inside the top. This way, I can tell when the recess is deep enough for the insert and adjustment wheel.

With the forstner bit installed again, I can center it up in the initial recess and slowly drill out the recess until it's deep enough. Sliding a square corner up against the stud tells me if it's still proud of the top or not.

Getting the camera too close without being in macro mode makes the picture blurry

[guitarnut]

With the countersinks done, I drilled out the holes for th inserts.

A quick check of the stud spacing...looks good.

Here, the inserts are installed and the bridge set in place. I tapped them in with a 7/16" deep socket and an amber dead-blow hammer.

With the strings back in place, it looks just like my mockup. Sweet!

[pauliemc]

Realy cool thread you have here men. So much info it could be used as a build tutorial.

Guitar is lookin realy cool aswell.

[guitarnut]

Realy cool thread you have here men. So much info it could be used as a build tutorial.

Guitar is lookin realy cool aswell.

Thanks!

Peace,

Mark

[guitarnut]

I'm getting close to the finish line on this one...punn intended.

I started tis morning by laying out the string thru holes. With the bridge in place, I decided on the angle I wanted for the top ferrules. The string spacing on this bridge, as close as I can measure it, is 10mm between each one.

I wanted to make sure the ruler is parallel to the bridge and not the angle...keeping in mind that the strings need ot continue a straight path as they cross the bridge.

I laid them out basically by eyeballing them...couldn't think of a way to keep avarything lined up and have a perpendicular line from each saddle to the diagonal line.

Here's a tip...this is a pedal wrench...for changing out pedals on road bikes. It has an offset and just the right width notch on one end to slip it under the post and gently pry the insert out of the body...with a piece of scrap under it for protection and leverage, it takes little to no effort.

I hand started these with a brad point bit to make sure I had a clean spot when I moved to the drill press.

Speaking of the drill press, using my string thru jig, I set the pin extra high because of the carved top.

This is a 4 step process and I didn't take pics because I was focusing on what I was doing but, here are the steps.

1. Without the pin in place, drill 1/8" holes from the front, halfway thru the body.

2. Insert the pin, flip the body over and line up each position drilling the remaining depth at each one.

3. Install the appropriate size bit for top ferrules, flip body, line up each position and drill the depth for each ferrule.

4. Insatll the eppropraiate size bit for the back ferrules, flip the body and line up each position, making sure the pin is beyound the ferrule recess and into the original 1/8" bore. Drill the recess for the ferrules at each position.

Not perfect but pretty dang close. Not bad for dealing with a carved top.

[guitarnut]

A couple more small milling processes to do. The output bore...

... bridge ground wire. I decided to go thru the PU route.

And I've never cared for the neck heel shape, so I took another pass at it...

...much nicer now.

I still need to figure out how I'm going to make the "scoops" for the controls. It's a no brainer on a CNC mill, but in the real world, a bit more of a challenge. I've looked at carving burrs and box core router bits but both are pretty expensive and I'm not sure I'd get the results I want with either of them. I need to think on this one a bit.

[USMCHueston0311]

hey man when i did mine i used a cove bit in the drill press.... just put the bearing in the control hole, or free hand it if you like check mine out

[USMCHueston0311]

hey man when i did mine i used a cove bit in the drill press.... just put the bearing in the control hole, or free hand it if you like check mine out

[USMCHueston0311]

hey man when i did mine i used a cove bit in the drill press.... just put the bearing in the control hole, or free hand it if you like check mine out

[guitarnut]

hey man when i did mine i used a cove bit in the drill press.... just put the bearing in the control hole, or free hand it if you like check mine out

Nice build!

I was investigating that and I found this at Lowes... is it the same? They don't refer to it as a cove bit but it looks like the right profile.

Peace,

Mark

[chops1983]

Yep thats a cove bit. As usmc has stated, pop it in the drill press and the bearing should fit in the control hole to guide, unless its a massive bearing and just route down to desired depth. Go slow as your drill press doesn't spin at the same speed as a router.

Nice build BTW Mark.

[Cam]

Another great build from you!

I love your attention to detail and neatness.

[Prostheta]

Yep thats a cove bit. As usmc has stated, pop it in the drill press and the bearing should fit in the control hole to guide, unless its a massive bearing and just route down to desired depth. Go slow as your drill press doesn't spin at the same speed as a router.

Nice build BTW Mark.

Oh-ho....don't I know it!!

*whiiirrreeeeeeee....CHUGCHUGCHUGBRAAAAP[add expletive]....vrrrwhiiirrreeeeeeee....*

[guitarnut]

As I was setting up to dish out the areas around the controls, I realized I hadn't shown the binding level on the body after the carve. Here it is...

Before scooping out the recesses with the 1.25" cove bit I found at Menard's, I needed to know the thickness of the top at each point. I slid a flat block into the control cavity and pushed a chuck key handle thru until it bottomed out. Then I placed a piece of tape on the outside, removed the chuck key and measured the diatance with my calipers. 3 different readings as you would expect on a carved top.

After a bit of careful "routing" on the drill press, I was able to get some nice results. Using the Shop Smith drill press' variable speed control lets me ramp up to 5200 rpm...not sure how that compares to other drills. This technique works but it's a bit scary. I had a couple of moments I thought the bit had torn out a chunk of the top...just an ugly noise though.

[Pestvic]

I started on the neck today. I was a bit optimistic about the number of necks I could get from this blank...I got 2.

I laid them out for the scarf joints. I'm not sure what angle PRS uses on their headstocks but I found this approach online and went with it. Measure in 4", draw a line, measure in 3.5" further and mark a line. Then conect them with a diagonal line.

I freehanded them on the bandsaw.

After clamping them to the beck top, I used a block plane to flatten out the joint. The few doark spots are where the plane has removed material.

Here it is all flattened out and ready to glue up.

They use a 10 degree angle on the headstock

[Pestvic]

oh by the way your build is amazing! ill post a picture of my prs i made i love the new prs builds on here great work!